The Sikh palace of Kallar Syedan

[Devil Soul]

The Sikh palace of Kallar Syedan
MUZAMMIL SHAH — UPDATED 29 MINUTES AGO

These paintings represent famous warriors of the subcontinent, of various faiths.
If you ever find yourself in Kallar Syedan, a sub-district of Rawalpindi, just ask around for the ‘Babay Da Mehal’. Locals will guide you through the narrow alleys to this mansion and regale you with myths and traditions associated with the place.

‘Babay Da Mehal’, or ‘Old man’s palace’, is the popular name for the ‘Bedi Palace’, which was built by Baba Khem Singh Bedi in the late 19th century.

Born on Feb 21, 1832, in this small district, Baba Khem Singh was a direct descendant of the founder of Sikh religion, Baba Nanak Dev. Khem Singh Bedi was also known as a leading figure in the Singh Sabha Movement, a reformist movement of the Sikh religion.

A series of murals depicting Sikh gurus. Over the years, visitors have carved their names into the paint.
According to references available in Sikh history, Baba Khem Singh assisted the British Raj in suppressing a rebellion in Gugera, a town near Okara district, during the 1857 Indian mutiny. In recognition of his services, he was appointed a magistrate in 1877 and was later nominated to the Viceroy’s Legislative Council in 1893.

Baba Khem Singh Bedi was awarded a knighthood in 1898 and died in Montgomery (now Sahiwal) on April 10, 1905.

A jharoka, meant for ventilation, in the courtyard. There would be several of these in such buildings to help ensure air circulation.
It is believed that Bedi Palace was built sometime in the late 19th century and harks back to the glory days of the Bedi family.

The four-storey building is decorated with colourful frescos and murals and built in the typical Sikh style of the colonial period. There is a central courtyard and the structure is supported by a network of pillars. There are plenty of balconies and windows and huge wooden gates greet visitors to this mansion.

The central courtyard with beautifully adorned pillars.
The walls and pillars in the central courtyard are decorated with a series of images including paintings of Sikh gurus, warriors, Hindu gods and goddesses. It is also believed that some of the images represent famous Muslim warriors of subcontinent as well. This religious ambiguity is what leads many locals to declare Baba Khem Singh a secular-minded man. But today, much like its original owner’s inclusive ideas, Bedi Palace lies in ruins.

After partition, the building was used as a government school for boys, but a decade or so ago, the school was shifted to a new building, constructed in front of the palace.

The exterior of the four-storey Bedi Palace.
Khalid Qureshi, the school principal, told Dawn: “The palace is in a very dilapidated state and could not be used as a school. We were afraid that the structure would collapse, since many parts of the building are in a really bad state.”

“We still use the main hall of the palace as an exam hall, but I’m nervous about doing it because the condition of the building is quite dire,” he added. According to Mr Qureshi, the building should now be restored and preserved as a historic landmark of the region. “It can still be restored and preserved if the concerned authorities pay due attention,” he said.

A beautifully built stone staircase that leads to the upper levels.
All photos by writer

Published in Dawn, September 6th, 2015

 

[haviZsultan]

These places should be protected. Unfortunately we have done little to preserve our heritage, particularly that which belongs to non muslim figures. India has the same problem but rather still preserves the architecture even though it gives such architecture and buildings a hindu mythology and tale and replace the muslim narrative with hindu one. We don't even preserve hindu temples.

Both countries need to do more. India has a large muslim minority which has helped them preserve these Islamic sites though at times even the names have been changed from muslim to hindu.

 

[xyxmt]

what a precious part of our history, what a neglect!

 

[Talwar e Pakistan]

These places should be protected. Unfortunately we have done little to preserve our heritage, particularly that which belongs to non muslim figures. India has the same problem but rather still preserves the architecture even though it gives such architecture and buildings a hindu mythology and tale and replace the muslim narrative with hindu one. We don't even preserve hindu temples.

Both countries need to do more. India has a large muslim minority which has helped them preserve these Islamic sites though at times even the names have been changed from muslim to hindu.

They are very protected, most of the Gurdwaras are being re-built.

 

[haviZsultan]

They are very protected, most of the Gurdwaras are being re-built.

The only people who can truly answer the question "whether we are doing enough" are perhaps the minorities in our country. They should be the ultimate decision makers of their destiny and they should be empowered so that they can best protect their places of worship.

 

[Talwar e Pakistan]

The only people who can truly answer the question "whether we are doing enough" are perhaps the minorities in our country. They should be the ultimate decision makers of their destiny and they should be empowered so that they can best protect their places of worship.

Yes but; those Gurdawas were made when Sikhs comprised around 20-30% of the Population. Now they are around 1%.

 

[itsanufy]

These places should be protected. Unfortunately we have done little to preserve our heritage, particularly that which belongs to non muslim figures. India has the same problem but rather still preserves the architecture even though it gives such architecture and buildings a hindu mythology and tale and replace the muslim narrative with hindu one. We don't even preserve hindu temples.

Both countries need to do more. India has a large muslim minority which has helped them preserve these Islamic sites though at times even the names have been changed from muslim to hindu.

Please, let us know which Islamic site changed its name from muslim to hindu?

 

[Sid N]

These places should be protected. Unfortunately we have done little to preserve our heritage, particularly that which belongs to non muslim figures. India has the same problem but rather still preserves the architecture even though it gives such architecture and buildings a hindu mythology and tale and replace the muslim narrative with hindu one. We don't even preserve hindu temples.

Both countries need to do more. India has a large muslim minority which has helped them preserve these Islamic sites though at times even the names have been changed from muslim to hindu.

Hindus are the original inhabitants of India and there is a history about most long inhabited places.

You can perhaps use this logic for some muslim cities or forts which were built from scratch by muslims.

 

[Jaggu]

Thanks for sharing this