Ganga
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IF you ever visited Iran with the assumption that it was after all another medieval Muslim nation where all one could expect to see was Mullahs exhorting the faithful to prayers and women clad in burqahs waiting at home for their husbands to return, you would be well advised to prepare for a surprise. Tehran itself is a megapolis, hosting some 12 of its 80 million people, a density of car population much higher than in Delhi, as also its pollution levels. Individual bungalow-type houses having given way to high-rise buildings, the city seems to have very recent origins of no more than two decades. Care was taken to keep the roads wide for movement of vehicles, which nevertheless seem to have outgrown the space.
The presence of Islam and of the Islamic Revolution 20-odd-years ago is never far away from wherever one goes. All functions, even a lecture in the University, begin with the invocation and even as most men wear Western coats and trousers, no one wears a necktie because it reminds them of the Cross and Christianity. Pictures of the two Ayatollahs, late Khomeini, the supreme leader, and Khamenei, the nation's present spiritual guide, are prominently on display everywhere in public buildings and offices. However, there is a well appointed Church in the heart of Tehran catering to the small population of Iranian Christians. All women, young or old, rich or poor, wear a loose cha dor, usually black, which covers their body from head to foot so as to cover the body's contours. There are some variations on it though: an overcoat and a scarf, often of a designer variety, would do for the ladies of the upper classes who would take measures to assert their distinctions from the mass of their sisters. They often make no attempt to conceal the jeans under the overcoat and wear lipstick, perfumes and nail polish. The sight of a number of women walking in a row, all covered in black, makes a very photogenic scene. However, once inside the black gown, there is no stopping them. They are there in offices, in the markets, driving cars, in the class rooms and the canteens, indeed everywhere, alone or in groups, with men or without them. Once in a while young couples can be seen walking the streets holding hands. Women and men were in the stadium too cheering the Iranian soccer players, and when Iran won the first match on way to the World Cup, young women spectators threw off their scarves in a momentary gesture of celebration, and a touch of defiance.
It is, however, the smaller cities like Isfahan and Shiraz that are the more charming. The roads are still wide, though traffic density is much lower. The cleanliness of roads and markets is striking. The magnificent 17th Century mosque, all covered in blue tiles, has made Isfahan famous in the history as in the present. Isfahan is also home to miniature painting and the most beautiful hand crafted and painted frames. One can see renowned artists at work usually doing motifs drawn from traditional literature, and buy their oeuvre, though some skilful bargaining would stand one in good stead.
Shiraz was home to two of world literature's immortal figures: Shaikh Sa'adi and Hafiz in the medieval centuries. The city knows the fact well and has built a magnificent tomb for each of them in two corners. It also has a crossword named after our own Maulana Abul Kalam Azad. What lends further lustre to Shiraz is Persepolis, some 50 km away, site of the ancient Sasanian ruler Jamshid's throne. The ruins are breathtaking in their grandeur. Jamshid was the best known of Sasanian dynasty long before Islam was born; the site was his capital. Iranian state has preserved it lovingly and proudly through all these centuries.
What the Islamic Revolution has done in Iran, among many other things, is to make a great deal of investment in modern education. If more than two decades ago, there were just a few Universities in Iran and students from the pampered elite groups went over to the U.S. for higher education and the ones from lower down stayed half educated, now Tehran itself has eight Universities and other towns have varying numbers of these. Most University campuses are not only well laid out and clean, they all have a large number of computers with internet at the students' disposal. At Tehran University, in one large hall 150 such computers had been placed for the use of students. There were computers in every faculty member's office and wherever else these were required. Education in Iran is entirely State-funded. Subjects studied in the Universities range from Persian literature, Islamic theology to Medicine and Biotechnology.
The mention of India anywhere brings tears to the eyes of Iranians. They all look upon India with great admiration for its past and with hope for the future. In all the Universities I visited in Tehran and outside, everyone from the Chancellor downwards wished to collaborate with Indian Universities, especially JNU, in several disciplines. The Chancellor of the prestigious and beautifully laid out Shahid Bahishti University in Tehran was overwhelmed when I suggested that in exchange for a teacher of Persian language and literature or history, we could think of sending a teacher of Sanskrit. He said it had been his dream to teach Sanskrit in his University and the dream would be fulfilled if the exchange could be arranged. Through the teaching of Sanskrit, the Chancellor said, he wished to promote the study of Indian philosophy and culture
savoured admiration for India in another mode. At Persepolis, even as I was looking intently at the ruins, my friend and constant companion, Karim Najafi, who has a Ph.D. in History from JNU, along with an official from Tarbiyat Mudarras (Teachers Training) University in Tehran, casually mentioned to a large group of university students, both male and female, that I was a Professor of History from India. That was enough for all of them to clamour for group photographs, autographs and exchange of pleasantries of all sorts. It took me almost an hour to be done with them and for once in my life I felt like a minor celebrity.
The three lectures I gave in the Universities on "Islam in Indian History" were both critical of orthodoxy and appreciative of Indian Islam's distinctive personality. Not knowing the audiences well, I had some apprehension of evoking hostile reaction from them; what came my way was honest and more than polite applause. But then, Shiite Islam itself has a long history of dissent, with suffering as one of its manifestations. My own friendly critique did not put me in the enemy camp.
The media in Iran, whether print or electronic, is under complete Government control. There are six TV channels in Tehran and four in the provinces; no private channel is allowed. However, it is known that here and there installation of secret antenna by individuals circumvents the ban and the Government is not in a position to punish these minor infractions. Freedom of the Indian press and electronic media is also well recognised and is perhaps a point of envy for the intelligentsia.
However, visit Iran and you will never think the Muslims are the same everywhere.
http://http://www.hinduonnet.com/mag/2002/03/03/stories/2002030300070400.htm
The presence of Islam and of the Islamic Revolution 20-odd-years ago is never far away from wherever one goes. All functions, even a lecture in the University, begin with the invocation and even as most men wear Western coats and trousers, no one wears a necktie because it reminds them of the Cross and Christianity. Pictures of the two Ayatollahs, late Khomeini, the supreme leader, and Khamenei, the nation's present spiritual guide, are prominently on display everywhere in public buildings and offices. However, there is a well appointed Church in the heart of Tehran catering to the small population of Iranian Christians. All women, young or old, rich or poor, wear a loose cha dor, usually black, which covers their body from head to foot so as to cover the body's contours. There are some variations on it though: an overcoat and a scarf, often of a designer variety, would do for the ladies of the upper classes who would take measures to assert their distinctions from the mass of their sisters. They often make no attempt to conceal the jeans under the overcoat and wear lipstick, perfumes and nail polish. The sight of a number of women walking in a row, all covered in black, makes a very photogenic scene. However, once inside the black gown, there is no stopping them. They are there in offices, in the markets, driving cars, in the class rooms and the canteens, indeed everywhere, alone or in groups, with men or without them. Once in a while young couples can be seen walking the streets holding hands. Women and men were in the stadium too cheering the Iranian soccer players, and when Iran won the first match on way to the World Cup, young women spectators threw off their scarves in a momentary gesture of celebration, and a touch of defiance.
It is, however, the smaller cities like Isfahan and Shiraz that are the more charming. The roads are still wide, though traffic density is much lower. The cleanliness of roads and markets is striking. The magnificent 17th Century mosque, all covered in blue tiles, has made Isfahan famous in the history as in the present. Isfahan is also home to miniature painting and the most beautiful hand crafted and painted frames. One can see renowned artists at work usually doing motifs drawn from traditional literature, and buy their oeuvre, though some skilful bargaining would stand one in good stead.
Shiraz was home to two of world literature's immortal figures: Shaikh Sa'adi and Hafiz in the medieval centuries. The city knows the fact well and has built a magnificent tomb for each of them in two corners. It also has a crossword named after our own Maulana Abul Kalam Azad. What lends further lustre to Shiraz is Persepolis, some 50 km away, site of the ancient Sasanian ruler Jamshid's throne. The ruins are breathtaking in their grandeur. Jamshid was the best known of Sasanian dynasty long before Islam was born; the site was his capital. Iranian state has preserved it lovingly and proudly through all these centuries.
What the Islamic Revolution has done in Iran, among many other things, is to make a great deal of investment in modern education. If more than two decades ago, there were just a few Universities in Iran and students from the pampered elite groups went over to the U.S. for higher education and the ones from lower down stayed half educated, now Tehran itself has eight Universities and other towns have varying numbers of these. Most University campuses are not only well laid out and clean, they all have a large number of computers with internet at the students' disposal. At Tehran University, in one large hall 150 such computers had been placed for the use of students. There were computers in every faculty member's office and wherever else these were required. Education in Iran is entirely State-funded. Subjects studied in the Universities range from Persian literature, Islamic theology to Medicine and Biotechnology.
The mention of India anywhere brings tears to the eyes of Iranians. They all look upon India with great admiration for its past and with hope for the future. In all the Universities I visited in Tehran and outside, everyone from the Chancellor downwards wished to collaborate with Indian Universities, especially JNU, in several disciplines. The Chancellor of the prestigious and beautifully laid out Shahid Bahishti University in Tehran was overwhelmed when I suggested that in exchange for a teacher of Persian language and literature or history, we could think of sending a teacher of Sanskrit. He said it had been his dream to teach Sanskrit in his University and the dream would be fulfilled if the exchange could be arranged. Through the teaching of Sanskrit, the Chancellor said, he wished to promote the study of Indian philosophy and culture
savoured admiration for India in another mode. At Persepolis, even as I was looking intently at the ruins, my friend and constant companion, Karim Najafi, who has a Ph.D. in History from JNU, along with an official from Tarbiyat Mudarras (Teachers Training) University in Tehran, casually mentioned to a large group of university students, both male and female, that I was a Professor of History from India. That was enough for all of them to clamour for group photographs, autographs and exchange of pleasantries of all sorts. It took me almost an hour to be done with them and for once in my life I felt like a minor celebrity.
The three lectures I gave in the Universities on "Islam in Indian History" were both critical of orthodoxy and appreciative of Indian Islam's distinctive personality. Not knowing the audiences well, I had some apprehension of evoking hostile reaction from them; what came my way was honest and more than polite applause. But then, Shiite Islam itself has a long history of dissent, with suffering as one of its manifestations. My own friendly critique did not put me in the enemy camp.
The media in Iran, whether print or electronic, is under complete Government control. There are six TV channels in Tehran and four in the provinces; no private channel is allowed. However, it is known that here and there installation of secret antenna by individuals circumvents the ban and the Government is not in a position to punish these minor infractions. Freedom of the Indian press and electronic media is also well recognised and is perhaps a point of envy for the intelligentsia.
However, visit Iran and you will never think the Muslims are the same everywhere.
http://http://www.hinduonnet.com/mag/2002/03/03/stories/2002030300070400.htm
