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Inside Pakistan

Screaming Skull

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Inside Pakistan

As I write this, Lahore is under attack. I was there till just two days ago as part of the Indian delegation to the first regional conference of South Asian Women in Media. The first day we were there, a suicide bomber killed 49 people in Peshawar. The next day, the army headquarters in Rawalpindi was under attack. Yet another day, another suicide bomber in Shangla blasted to death 41 people.

Wherever we went in Lahore, it was only with armed police escort. A group of foreigners, from India, including three mediapersons from Jammu and Kashmir, Afghanistan and other countries, could obviously be at a huge security risk. But having gun-toting men trailing us everywhere we went, even sitting all through the night outside our hotel room, was a constant reminder that the shadow of terror was everywhere.

If we thought, India in recent times had got all too used to terror, seeing it happening almost face-to-face every successive day took it to an altogether different level. Almost as though they preferred to blank out that terror was inside the doorstep, our Pakistani hosts carried on with the itinerary of formal dinners and even an evening of music and dance. I can't say if it was unnerving, agonising or traumatising that a country and people that were virtually under the siege of terror had to go on as though nothing was really wrong. As though the truth and reality of terror does not exist as long as you don't acknowledge its presence. Some cynical voices in the Indian media said the country is getting a taste of its own medicine. But somehow when you see real people like you and me caught helplessly in the whirlpool of terror, I am unable to reconcile myself to a cynical view.

Just yesterday, Rahul Gandhi said, "We are giving too much importance to Pakistan. It is just a small piece of land. Pakistan's internal issues do affect us, but we are giving too much time and importance to Pakistan in our minds. In my opinion, it deserves not half the importance we are giving it."

My experiences in Pakistan seemed to suggest our neighbouring country is as much if not much, much more obsessed with India. Almost as though its identity and thought process to a large extent is defined by being India's neighbour. Every Pakistani speaker at the conference, whether it was the country's information minister, the former information minister Sherry Rahman or the SAFMA president Imtiaz Alam, everyone's focus was on the Indo-Pak equation. Every other country and the primary issue of women in media, for which presumably we had gathered in Lahore, was almost a sidelight. Inevitable one could say given the context of the present situation and after all that's what almost always happens when the two nations, seemingly obsessed with each other, are face-to-face. But this was glaring.

It was almost as though it was not a 8-nation meet of media women from SAARC countries, but an Indo-Pak meet. Every speaker made a detailed reference to the Mumbai terror attack and about the fallout of the investigation process. So much so that it provoked a young woman delegate from Afghanistan to claim the microphone and make a statement that if Pakistan was even half as concerned about terror in Afghanistan as it was about the Mumbai attack, they would have to name the attacks Kabul 1, Kabul 2, Kabul 3 and the count would simply go on.

The news television cameras that came in sought out only Indian delegates to the exclusion of delegates from every other countries. And all they wanted you to talk about was of course Indo-Pak relations.

Even at the musical evening treat arranged for us at Pearl Continental, the anchor of the show was chatting with a few of us Indian delegates and inquired if we could follow chaste Urdu, the language in which he compered so beautifully and also the language of the compositions that Iqbal Bano had poured her soul into. We said, yes, possibly many of us would be able to enjoy it but the delegates from other countries may not be able to. To which he said, "all this is meant for you".

As we interacted with our hosts, at least four people asked me in separate, private conversations what the "aam Indian people" think of people in Pakistan. I was touched that they seemed so deeply concerned when they asked, "Do they think we are all terrorists?"

I was unfortunately unable to say an emphatic, unequivocal 'No'. I had to say, unfortunately, the perception is not very positive.

Everywhere I went, on the street, in the dhabas, people would ask me "Aap India se aaye hain? Hamein India aur Indians bahut achche lagthe hain. (Have you come from India? We like India and Indians very much)." There was a warmth as people said it and somehow it seemed to come from the heart. There was an undeniable connect. After all, the young boy selling readymade salwars who offered me an additonal discount, another shopkeeper who immediately ordered tea for us, one of the policemen standing guard outside my hotel room, all of them had no reason to be uttering similar sentiments.

I asked my friend Farah Usman what made people say that. Do they perceive India as 'overbearing' I asked. Not more than the Americans, she joked. But she explained that many people have relatives living across the border, there are roots on the other side, the language and cultural context is mostly so well understood and then there is an undeniably strong cultural identification that comes from watching Bollywood films and having singers and performers who people in both sides of the border have accepted as their own. The most popular songs people from both sides could happily sing together, joined also by our friends from Bangladesh and even Afghanistan. We did that on several bus rides and then there were no borders.

Driver Wali Shah and a policeman who acted as guides and escorts when I and my three friends from Jammu & Kashmir went on a sight-seeing tour around Lahore had clearcut views on who was to blame. "Politicians and politics have embittered relations. Jab logon mein, apas mein aana-jaana rahega, utna-baitna rahega, tab sab dooriyan, nazdeekiyan ho jayengi."

Wali Shah very sincerely appealed to me that I must go back and tell people that people across the border want to be friends, that they are good people and they would love to visit India and would welcome people from India as their own.

As we were returning on foot, crossing the Wagah Border, from Pakistan into India, we were on No Man's Land when one of us asked one of the coolies, "Yeh kiskee zameen hain, Pakistan ki yah India ki?" He replied in a flash. "Yeh Punjab ki zameen hai".
 
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As we interacted with our hosts, at least four people asked me in separate, private conversations what the "aam Indian people" think of people in Pakistan. I was touched that they seemed so deeply concerned when they asked, "Do they think we are all terrorists?"

I was unfortunately unable to say an emphatic, unequivocal 'No'. I had to say, unfortunately, the perception is not very positive.

Everywhere I went, on the street, in the dhabas, people would ask me "Aap India se aaye hain? Hamein India aur Indians bahut achche lagthe hain. (Have you come from India? We like India and Indians very much)." There was a warmth as people said it and somehow it seemed to come from the heart. There was an undeniable connect. After all, the young boy selling readymade salwars who offered me an additonal discount, another shopkeeper who immediately ordered tea for us, one of the policemen standing guard outside my hotel room, all of them had no reason to be uttering similar sentiments.

Driver Wali Shah and a policeman who acted as guides and escorts when I and my three friends from Jammu & Kashmir went on a sight-seeing tour around Lahore had clearcut views on who was to blame. "Politicians and politics have embittered relations. Jab logon mein, apas mein aana-jaana rahega, utna-baitna rahega, tab sab dooriyan, nazdeekiyan ho jayengi."

Wali Shah very sincerely appealed to me that I must go back and tell people that people across the border want to be friends, that they are good people and they would love to visit India and would welcome people from India as their own.

As we were returning on foot, crossing the Wagah Border, from Pakistan into India, we were on No Man's Land when one of us asked one of the coolies, "Yeh kiskee zameen hain, Pakistan ki yah India ki?" He replied in a flash. "Yeh Punjab ki zameen hai".

These are the common people speaking. Coolies, drivers, policemen, shopkeepers. Not sure how representative a sample it is, but it is nevertheless encouraging.

As the saying goes, you can't fool all the people all the time. Despite the indoctrination through Madrassas and school textbooks, the truth cannot be suppressed. Satyameva Jayate!

I see no reason why the common people of Pakistan cannot someday have the same friendly attitude towards India as the people of Afghanistan do. Unfortunately, they are prisoners of their Military-Mullah-Feudal elites. But that is a situation cannot be sustained for ever - so hopefully improvement is inevitable.
 
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These are the common people speaking. Coolies, drivers, policemen, shopkeepers. Not sure how representative a sample it is, but it is nevertheless encouraging.

As the saying goes, you can't fool all the people all the time. Despite the indoctrination through Madrassas and school textbooks, the truth cannot be suppressed. Satyameva Jayate!

I see no reason why the common people of Pakistan cannot someday have the same attitude towards India as the people of Afghanistan do. Unfortunately, they are prisoners of their Military-Mullah-Feudal elites. But that is a situation cannot be sustained for ever - so hopefully improvement is inevitable.

The same applies to the Indians as well - will the Indian majority wake-up from its daze on anti-Pakistan paranoia and hate-mongering?

Reading people like you I would have to say not for a long time.

Where are the Indians speaking like these Pakistanis?

If nothing else, that Pakistanis can express these sentiments despite the terror and carnage of East Pakistan sponsored by India, despite the insurgencies and terror sponsored by India, only indicates that Indians have a long way to go before reaching this point.
 
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As we were returning on foot, crossing the Wagah Border, from Pakistan into India, we were on No Man's Land when one of us asked one of the coolies, "Yeh kiskee zameen hain, Pakistan ki yah India ki?" He replied in a flash. "Yeh Punjab ki zameen hai".

A desire for friendship and cooperation should not be confused with a lack of fierce nationalism and pride in our independence. ;)
 
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Sure, Afghans are a proud and independent people, but that does not stop them from being friendly to India.

Afghans have also not had their country torn apart due to Indian machinations ala East Pakistan, and had India support multiple insurgencies in their nation. In fact the Afghans have done much the same, barring actually being successful at it like India in EP, to Pakistan, sometimes in concert with India.

So there is a bit of a natural alliance between the two in that the Afghans opposed the Independence of Pakistan in 1947 like India did, and they claim Pakistani territory and would like to see Pakistan weaker, like India does, so that they can annex that territory.

Nor do the Afghans have multiple major territorial disputes with India lingering still.

All of the above allows the Afghan state to cooperate with the Indian state more freely and broadly than Pakistan and India can.

But my point was that the attitudes of Pakistanis are reflective of the fact that they want friendship and cooperation, as equals, but that should not be construed as a lack of nationalism or pride in our Independence.

Which is to say that don't expect us to lie down and fold in front of India.
 
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Another interesting perspective from a feman Indian journalist who was part of the same group that went to Lahore for the SAARC female journalists meet.


Indian Journalist's Pakistan Experience: Assi Lahore dekhya! | ummid.com

Yes Yes, I am back from my first ever Pakistan visit. The stress on the 'yes' is for the reason that for the past five days odds, I have been inundated with messages and phone calls if I was safe and alive. "We told you not to go "messaged a couple of friends post the spate of terror attacks in Pakistan and unfortunately I had to be in the country just around the time. In a way the entire enthusiasm post my return from Lahore, yes the city of Manto and Iqbal was eclipsed by the terror mania.



It reminded me of the conversations with the young guys in Lahore's famous liberty market. The most handsome men speaking in Punjabi accented Urdu. (Btw that kinda leftover its impact on me. Ever since my return I have been concluding all my sentences with hondi hain..hanji..ki hoya and types).

I was in Lahore to attend a conference of South Asian women in Media. The best part about the conference though was the interaction with women journalists of SAARC countries, which meant meeting the likes of Moldavian and Afghanistani journalists, which was a treat. It was a delight and an enlightening experience hearing the tales of grit and courage from this bunch of women who were accompanied by their 6-month-old babies. The moments that made my trip a memorable experience was just meeting the local people there. Amazingly warm, their hospitality embarrassed me of our own perceptions and bias that we have against a nation which we now are on hostile terms with.

Shopkeepers offered to keep their shops open for us on a Sunday, which is a non working day. The dupatta shop waala insisting that we have a cold drink with him and calling up his father to inform him that Indians were visiting the shop. The mochi (cobbler) who gave me a peck on my forehead and called me gudiya. "Gudiya, tu itthe baith. Meri photo khincha tere saath aur bambai le jaa. Woh log bolenge ki ye insaan to hamaare jaisa hi dikhta hai".



Touching!!.



While all these moments endeared them to me, they also made me ashamed of my perceptions and opinion of the 'hostile nation' and its citizens.

I am sure Pakistan is facing a turbulent time. I am sure the issues between India and Pakistan are grave and need serious attention and strategies but what is more serious a problem is the internal situation that both the countries face. The day I left India for Pakistan, there was a major naxalite attack in Gadchiroli killing 22 policemen. The day I reached Pakistan Peshawar and Islamabad were bombarded with terrorist attacks and a day after my return it was Lahore were we had stayed which bore the burnt of these attackers who were killing 4 year olds in the name of religion or in the name of paradise as a newspaper headline captioned it in the above picture. The Pakistani youth like its Indian counterpart is appalled at the game of death and terrorism that have overtaken the two countries.

Aslam was one such individual. A Medical student, he was managing his fathers dress material shop in his father’s absence when we went visiting. "Agar mera bas chale na mam, to aaj hi chale jaaon yahan se..ghutan hoti hai ab".



The anger is directed more at the politicians, at the likes of the Zardaris and the Miya Nawaz who they believe have sold the country. While we were at the Conference, the controversial Kerry Lugar bill was the subject of discussion everywhere and as we journalists were trying to figure out stories revolving around the same, came the first attack.

The attack in the midst of it is symbolic in more ways than one, symbolic of the power dynamics, of a sudden destructive disruption in the middle of a healthy argument or a debate.


What was refreshing though was meeting a large number of teenagers, professionals who had in the midst of the chaos managed to build a semblance of normalcy. Young enthusiastic set of volunteers who managed the affairs at the conference. College students who had formed web portals and community sites for people to people contact. Women, a chunk of this lot initiated debates and discussions. Standing in firm opposition to the chauvinistic mindset. The entire conference was the hard work of such amazing women. In a discussion with a couple of them over dinner hosted by the state governor, I got a sense of what it meant to be there. It reminded me of the brilliant movie from Pakistan “Khuda ke liye”. The movie was precise and articulated what the common man or rather the middle class of the country was facing. On one hand were the hardliners, the talibans whose mere ideology and concept of Islamic teaching baffles me and on the other hand was the high on power western countries or If I may say America which had created and let loose the monster and trying to drag the same country for its use against these men.

So were does that leave Pakistan and where does that leave Indo Pak relations. As I crossed Atari to reach Wagah on the Pakistani side, the Pakistani media surrounded us. One of them asked me a question. "So what do you think can a bunch of journalists from India do for the peace process between India and Pakistan". I paused for a minute and realised that there was no answer so I ended up saving my face with a cliched diplomatic reply. But as the camera switched off, I realised that I had not much to offer or rather by myself nothing. What was required was a concerted effort by everyone so that an Aslam from Pakistan and his counterpart from India chooses to stay back and does not end up feeling claustrophobic in his own country.



(Rana Ayyub is the senior and respected Indian Journalist associated with The Tehelka.
She was recently in Pakistan to attend the conference of South Asian women in Media)
 
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The same applies to the Indians as well - will the Indian majority wake-up from its daze on anti-Pakistan paranoia and hate-mongering?

You are correct that it should be both ways. However perhaps you have some misunderstanding about so-called Indian majority. All I can say, lack of people-to-people contact.

Where are the Indians speaking like these Pakistanis?

There are plenty of them. But politicians from both sides have done their job to make things worse.
Without being in Pakistan, how could we know what a common Pakistani thinks about India. All we can get is negative news though media or government. Same applies to india as well. Ask any common Indian and you will know the answer. People are too busy in daily lives. Nobody has the time or is in favour of creating trouble.

If nothing else, that Pakistanis can express these sentiments despite the terror and carnage of East Pakistan sponsored by India, despite the insurgencies and terror sponsored by India, only indicates that Indians have a long way to go before reaching this point.

I fail to get the point. We can talk about Operation Gibraltar or Kargil but it would serve no purpose.
 
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Inside Pakistan

As I write this, Lahore is under attack. I was there till just two days ago as part of the Indian delegation to the first regional conference of South Asian Women in Media. The first day we were there, a suicide bomber killed 49 people in Peshawar. The next day, the army headquarters in Rawalpindi was under attack. Yet another day, another suicide bomber in Shangla blasted to death 41 people.

Wherever we went in Lahore, it was only with armed police escort. A group of foreigners, from India, including three mediapersons from Jammu and Kashmir, Afghanistan and other countries, could obviously be at a huge security risk. But having gun-toting men trailing us everywhere we went, even sitting all through the night outside our hotel room, was a constant reminder that the shadow of terror was everywhere.

If we thought, India in recent times had got all too used to terror, seeing it happening almost face-to-face every successive day took it to an altogether different level. Almost as though they preferred to blank out that terror was inside the doorstep, our Pakistani hosts carried on with the itinerary of formal dinners and even an evening of music and dance. I can't say if it was unnerving, agonising or traumatising that a country and people that were virtually under the siege of terror had to go on as though nothing was really wrong. As though the truth and reality of terror does not exist as long as you don't acknowledge its presence. Some cynical voices in the Indian media said the country is getting a taste of its own medicine. But somehow when you see real people like you and me caught helplessly in the whirlpool of terror, I am unable to reconcile myself to a cynical view.

Just yesterday, Rahul Gandhi said, "We are giving too much importance to Pakistan. It is just a small piece of land. Pakistan's internal issues do affect us, but we are giving too much time and importance to Pakistan in our minds. In my opinion, it deserves not half the importance we are giving it."

My experiences in Pakistan seemed to suggest our neighbouring country is as much if not much, much more obsessed with India. Almost as though its identity and thought process to a large extent is defined by being India's neighbour. Every Pakistani speaker at the conference, whether it was the country's information minister, the former information minister Sherry Rahman or the SAFMA president Imtiaz Alam, everyone's focus was on the Indo-Pak equation. Every other country and the primary issue of women in media, for which presumably we had gathered in Lahore, was almost a sidelight. Inevitable one could say given the context of the present situation and after all that's what almost always happens when the two nations, seemingly obsessed with each other, are face-to-face. But this was glaring.

It was almost as though it was not a 8-nation meet of media women from SAARC countries, but an Indo-Pak meet. Every speaker made a detailed reference to the Mumbai terror attack and about the fallout of the investigation process. So much so that it provoked a young woman delegate from Afghanistan to claim the microphone and make a statement that if Pakistan was even half as concerned about terror in Afghanistan as it was about the Mumbai attack, they would have to name the attacks Kabul 1, Kabul 2, Kabul 3 and the count would simply go on.

The news television cameras that came in sought out only Indian delegates to the exclusion of delegates from every other countries. And all they wanted you to talk about was of course Indo-Pak relations.

Even at the musical evening treat arranged for us at Pearl Continental, the anchor of the show was chatting with a few of us Indian delegates and inquired if we could follow chaste Urdu, the language in which he compered so beautifully and also the language of the compositions that Iqbal Bano had poured her soul into. We said, yes, possibly many of us would be able to enjoy it but the delegates from other countries may not be able to. To which he said, "all this is meant for you".

As we interacted with our hosts, at least four people asked me in separate, private conversations what the "aam Indian people" think of people in Pakistan. I was touched that they seemed so deeply concerned when they asked, "Do they think we are all terrorists?"

I was unfortunately unable to say an emphatic, unequivocal 'No'. I had to say, unfortunately, the perception is not very positive.

Everywhere I went, on the street, in the dhabas, people would ask me "Aap India se aaye hain? Hamein India aur Indians bahut achche lagthe hain. (Have you come from India? We like India and Indians very much)." There was a warmth as people said it and somehow it seemed to come from the heart. There was an undeniable connect. After all, the young boy selling readymade salwars who offered me an additonal discount, another shopkeeper who immediately ordered tea for us, one of the policemen standing guard outside my hotel room, all of them had no reason to be uttering similar sentiments.

I asked my friend Farah Usman what made people say that. Do they perceive India as 'overbearing' I asked. Not more than the Americans, she joked. But she explained that many people have relatives living across the border, there are roots on the other side, the language and cultural context is mostly so well understood and then there is an undeniably strong cultural identification that comes from watching Bollywood films and having singers and performers who people in both sides of the border have accepted as their own. The most popular songs people from both sides could happily sing together, joined also by our friends from Bangladesh and even Afghanistan. We did that on several bus rides and then there were no borders.

Driver Wali Shah and a policeman who acted as guides and escorts when I and my three friends from Jammu & Kashmir went on a sight-seeing tour around Lahore had clearcut views on who was to blame. "Politicians and politics have embittered relations. Jab logon mein, apas mein aana-jaana rahega, utna-baitna rahega, tab sab dooriyan, nazdeekiyan ho jayengi."

Wali Shah very sincerely appealed to me that I must go back and tell people that people across the border want to be friends, that they are good people and they would love to visit India and would welcome people from India as their own.

As we were returning on foot, crossing the Wagah Border, from Pakistan into India, we were on No Man's Land when one of us asked one of the coolies, "Yeh kiskee zameen hain, Pakistan ki yah India ki?" He replied in a flash. "Yeh Punjab ki zameen hai".

A sense of superiority complex is ingrained in their psyche so i suggest friendship is an exercise in futility
 
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Inside Pakistan
Everywhere I went, on the street, in the dhabas, people would ask me "Aap India se aaye hain? Hamein India aur Indians bahut achche lagthe hain. (Have you come from India? We like India and Indians very much)." There was a warmth as people said it and somehow it seemed to come from the heart. There was an undeniable connect. After all, the young boy selling readymade salwars who offered me an additonal discount, another shopkeeper who immediately ordered tea for us, one of the policemen standing guard outside my hotel room, all of them had no reason to be uttering similar sentiments.

These peaceniks types go to Pakistan and are genuinely shocked that Pakistanis do not have horns growing out of their heads.
 
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It is said that you cannot know the nature of someone till you share an inheritance with him.

This applies across the board to siblings, relatives, friends , neighbors & even countries.

In an Indo - Pk context I feel that the common man ir respective of what is written & said in the media & by politicians / religious leaders ( mostly rabble rousers) is beyond hate. Momentary anger may show but not hate in the intense way as we know it.

The fact that we meet & become friends so easily indicates that most of us are either too engrossed in our daily lives or have simply had enough.
 
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A sense of superiority complex is ingrained in their psyche so i suggest friendship is an exercise in futility

And i feel its inferiority complex at your end which stops you from appreciating the sentiments of a common man in Pakistan and India towards each other.

Come out of your biase and see the common man in both countries does not have time to indulge in such things rather they are more concerned with earning a two square meal for their families.
 
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In fact the Afghans have done much the same, barring actually being successful at it like India in EP, to Pakistan, sometimes in concert with India.

So there is a bit of a natural alliance between the two in that the Afghans opposed the Independence of Pakistan in 1947 like India did, and they claim Pakistani territory and would like to see Pakistan weaker, like India does, so that they can annex that territory.

Nor do the Afghans have multiple major territorial disputes with India lingering still.

All of the above allows the Afghan state to cooperate with the Indian state more freely and broadly than Pakistan and India can.

people of afghanistan didnt oppose the independence of pakistan but it was done by a gov which didnt not have public base and our today's miseries is as a result of that family and gov(zahir shah/his father/his uncles/his cousins and other family members). people of afghanistan dont have any territorial dispute with pakistan and there is no logical reason why we should have. i dont deny that some people talk of territorial dispute, and even among those people alot of them say this out of anger because of pakistan's wrong policies towards afghanistan, the taliban opposion groups are an example of this. you should also know that in afghanistan alot of different people live and there are alot of different political parties, pakistan need to analyze everything before they have their final judgement. we have got alot more in common(being neigbhours and muslims) with pakistan than india, and if it is seen from a positive angle we can both benefit from it. you should also know that pakistan have also invested heavily to destablive and destroy afghanistan, these types of policies are never good for non of us coming from either side.
 
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