Götterdämmerung
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Some Zegna or Armani clothes are custom made only, whatever the fancy categorization.
The French are trying too hard for the sake of exclusivity
Well, the French have already softened the criteria, otherwise there would be a handful of haut couturiers left. Can you imagine the face of a lady to encounter another lady with the same robe she bought for 15k euro?
To uphold the criteria is also a way to preserve a certain culture and workmanship that is fast dying out. Do you know how many specialized steps and how many disciplines there are to make a robe? It's also a huge industry, a whole chain of businesses that supports the prêt-à-porter fashion because the haute couture radiate a magic and an aura of luxury that so many people cannot afford but want to be part of. Haute couture is the best advertisement for European luxury industry. I can't afford haut couture, well, there is still prêt-à-porter from the same fashion house.
BTW, Armani privé (women) is in the haute couture club.
If China wants to make high fashion, it needs to preserve all the century old textile traditions and help them to modernise. It's as costly as to preserve the Gugong with all the different disciplines but it's worthwhile. Preserving an old culture, polish the image of Chinese products and make money from luxury crazy people.