Devil Soul
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Travelling to the forbidden land — A Pakistani in Israel
SHERAZ KHAN — UPDATED 42 MINUTES AGO
As a Pakistani who immigrated to Canada, I had always pledged to myself that the first country I would travel to after acquiring citizenship and a Canadian passport would be Israel.
Having heard stories of the Holy Land from friends, my excitement knew no bounds. That said, I was apprehensive aplenty because I had heard accounts of people who were denied entry by Israeli customs owing to their Pakistani and/or Muslim background.
On Feb 17, 2016, loaded with prayers and advice, I embarked on a British Airways flight to Israel. I arrived at the Ben Gurion airport in Tel Aviv at 5am local time.
Upon arriving at the Israeli customs, an officer interrogated me in a sombre voice: Do I know anybody in Israel? Do I know Arabic? Have I ever been to the Middle East?
He also asked to see my Pakistani passport, which I wasn't carrying with me since it had expired.
Taking my Canadian passport, he pointed me towards a waiting area. I had earlier anticipated such a scenario and hence had brought a copy of a Lonely Planet Guide on Israel, which I then proceeded to read.
After 30 minutes, I was called in a room by another custom officer, who asked me my purpose of visit, and why I had chosen to visit Israel and not some other country. Slowly and painstakingly, he typed my answers into his computer.
After peppering me with a few other questions pertaining to my move to Canada and my profession, the officer asked me to write my full name and e-mail address on a piece of paper and then told me to wait in the same waiting area.
An hour went by before I was called by a young lady officer for another question-and-answer session. Seated in a room which had a picture of the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem and an Israeli flag on display, I answered just about every question under the sun.
The session lasted for about 45 minutes. In the end, I was told that she would verify all the information I had provided.
Following a wait of four hours since I had landed, a lady came to me with my passport in her hand. She handed me an entry visa on a separate piece of paper and directed me to the luggage machine.
I collected my backpack and immediately phoned my father to inform that I was finally going to Jerusalem!
A 45-minute drive from Tel Aviv, Jerusalem is the Holy city for Judaism, Christianity and Islam. The city is divided into Muslim, Jewish, Christian and Armenian quarters.
I arrived in my hostel, located in the old city, at noon. Not wanting to waste anymore time, I left my backpack in my room, I decided to go first to the Al-Aqsa mosque.
The passage to Al-Aqsa from Jaffa Gate (one of the many gates of the walled city) passes through the beautiful traditional markets of the old city.
Upon arriving at the entrance of Al-Aqsa, the guard on duty asked to see my passport and then told me to read Surah-e-Fateha as verification that I was Muslim (there are also designated hours for non-Muslims). I did and entered.
The entrance of Al-Aqsa mosque.
Inside the Al-Aqsa mosque.
The capacious mosque was endearing in its simplicity, and sparsely filled with devotees. I explored its interiors and then said a prayer.
Opposite to the mosque is the gold-plated Dome of the Rock, one of the most stunning and photographed landmarks around the world. The gilded dome of the edifice stood out against a pale sky.
The Dome of the Rock from a distance.
The Dome of the Rock.
Inside the Dome of the Rock.
The opening inside the Dome of the Rock where it is believed that Prophet Muhammad ascended to the heavens for his journey called Mairaj.
I gazed at it for a long time, mesmerised and utterly humbled, before going inside to see the place where Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) is believed to have descended to the heavens during the journey called Mairaj.
Jews praying at the Western Wall in Jerusalem.
Next, I visited the Wailing or Western Wall, which is the holiest place, where Jews are permitted to pray. Here, I saw locals Jews mourning and praying in front of the ancient limestone wall.
I then made my way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, considered the place where Jesus' tomb is located.
A sacred place for Christians, many believe it is the site of the most critical event in history: The spot where Christ resurrected from the dead.
A quiet calm descended upon me as the day drew to an end. Watching these believers at each of the three sites filled me with a profound peace; moving me with their acts of faith.
A view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives.
SHERAZ KHAN — UPDATED 42 MINUTES AGO
As a Pakistani who immigrated to Canada, I had always pledged to myself that the first country I would travel to after acquiring citizenship and a Canadian passport would be Israel.
Having heard stories of the Holy Land from friends, my excitement knew no bounds. That said, I was apprehensive aplenty because I had heard accounts of people who were denied entry by Israeli customs owing to their Pakistani and/or Muslim background.
On Feb 17, 2016, loaded with prayers and advice, I embarked on a British Airways flight to Israel. I arrived at the Ben Gurion airport in Tel Aviv at 5am local time.
Upon arriving at the Israeli customs, an officer interrogated me in a sombre voice: Do I know anybody in Israel? Do I know Arabic? Have I ever been to the Middle East?
He also asked to see my Pakistani passport, which I wasn't carrying with me since it had expired.
Taking my Canadian passport, he pointed me towards a waiting area. I had earlier anticipated such a scenario and hence had brought a copy of a Lonely Planet Guide on Israel, which I then proceeded to read.
After 30 minutes, I was called in a room by another custom officer, who asked me my purpose of visit, and why I had chosen to visit Israel and not some other country. Slowly and painstakingly, he typed my answers into his computer.
After peppering me with a few other questions pertaining to my move to Canada and my profession, the officer asked me to write my full name and e-mail address on a piece of paper and then told me to wait in the same waiting area.
An hour went by before I was called by a young lady officer for another question-and-answer session. Seated in a room which had a picture of the Dome of the Rock in Jerusalem and an Israeli flag on display, I answered just about every question under the sun.
The session lasted for about 45 minutes. In the end, I was told that she would verify all the information I had provided.
Following a wait of four hours since I had landed, a lady came to me with my passport in her hand. She handed me an entry visa on a separate piece of paper and directed me to the luggage machine.
I collected my backpack and immediately phoned my father to inform that I was finally going to Jerusalem!
A 45-minute drive from Tel Aviv, Jerusalem is the Holy city for Judaism, Christianity and Islam. The city is divided into Muslim, Jewish, Christian and Armenian quarters.
I arrived in my hostel, located in the old city, at noon. Not wanting to waste anymore time, I left my backpack in my room, I decided to go first to the Al-Aqsa mosque.
The passage to Al-Aqsa from Jaffa Gate (one of the many gates of the walled city) passes through the beautiful traditional markets of the old city.
Upon arriving at the entrance of Al-Aqsa, the guard on duty asked to see my passport and then told me to read Surah-e-Fateha as verification that I was Muslim (there are also designated hours for non-Muslims). I did and entered.
The entrance of Al-Aqsa mosque.
Inside the Al-Aqsa mosque.
The capacious mosque was endearing in its simplicity, and sparsely filled with devotees. I explored its interiors and then said a prayer.
Opposite to the mosque is the gold-plated Dome of the Rock, one of the most stunning and photographed landmarks around the world. The gilded dome of the edifice stood out against a pale sky.
The Dome of the Rock from a distance.
The Dome of the Rock.
Inside the Dome of the Rock.
The opening inside the Dome of the Rock where it is believed that Prophet Muhammad ascended to the heavens for his journey called Mairaj.
I gazed at it for a long time, mesmerised and utterly humbled, before going inside to see the place where Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) is believed to have descended to the heavens during the journey called Mairaj.
Jews praying at the Western Wall in Jerusalem.
Next, I visited the Wailing or Western Wall, which is the holiest place, where Jews are permitted to pray. Here, I saw locals Jews mourning and praying in front of the ancient limestone wall.
I then made my way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, considered the place where Jesus' tomb is located.
A sacred place for Christians, many believe it is the site of the most critical event in history: The spot where Christ resurrected from the dead.
A quiet calm descended upon me as the day drew to an end. Watching these believers at each of the three sites filled me with a profound peace; moving me with their acts of faith.
A view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives.
