The routine of a BSF soldier in the Rann of Kutch in Gujarat is markedly different from any other posting. Rising mercury, salty winds, dust storms, dry weather, and snakebites are part of the daily grind for these men who man the border posts in one of the most challenging terrains in the country.
At the place described as the bleakest, dustiest, and hottest region in India, commandos from the Border Security Force are on guard. White paint flakes off Border pillar No. 1175, the last international border post that lies parallel to the head of the hugely disputed Sir Creek in the Rann of Kutch marshlands. “A few steps more and you will be on Pakistan’s soil,” cautions the Border Security Force (BSF) Company Commander.
Eighty-odd kilometres of nothingness create a natural boundary between Gujarat and the Sindh Province of Pakistan. All terrain vehicles that double as boats and the specially trained Creek Crocodile Commandos are perhaps the most common sights in this no-man’s land.
The salt-flaked landscape dissolves into mush during the monsoon months, forcing BSF personnel to wade barefoot through turgid mud, braving vipers and scorpions. Then there is the dry, hot weather and the salt-laden winds that scourge the body, leaving behind skin rashes and burning eyes.
But beyond the physical, there is the absolute loneliness they face, staring into a deserted horizon. Depression takes its toll on these men deployed for counter-insurgency operations, stuck in remote areas with little access to their families and with limited amenities. Mobile connectivity here is patchy, with personnel having to shell out ₹5.25 for a minute of conversation with their families. “If there is mobile connectivity in the most sensitive border areas of Jammu & Kashmir and Punjab, why are the border areas of Gujarat neglected,” asks a jawan.
I am reminded of the 13th century poet Rumi, who said, “Do not feel lonely, the entire universe is inside you.”
The last post: The pillar marks the India-Pakistan border in the Great Rann of Kutch, near Harami Nala, some 65km from Lakhpat, the last point of western India. Photo: Prashant Nakwe
Lonely universe: Staring at a deserted horizon for hours together is part of the BSF soldiers’ routine here. Photo: Prashant Nakwe
The long and winding roads: The paramilitary personnel work in exacting conditions, and amenities are poor. Lack of proper roads and telecom networks are amongst the most glaring. Photo: Prashant Nakwe
The long walk: Guns shine in the harsh sun as the jawans embark on a routine patrol on the India-Pakistan border in Wigocot, Kutch. Photo: Prashant Nakwe
Barefoot heroes: The commandos are made to walk amidst sharp mangrove buds, in one of their toughest drills, in Lucky Nala. Many suffer from sharp cuts as a consequence. Photo: Prashant Nakwe
Swamped in: Creek Crocodile commandos, a specialised unit of the BSF, seen during one of the toughest mud walk drills at Lucky Nala, an extension of Kori Creek. To keep tabs on suspicious activities in areas not approachable by boat, the jawans have to sometimes walk in waist-deep mud. In such situations, they tie ropes to each other so as to not get sucked in. Photo: Prashant Nakwe
Every drop counts: The personnel are also taught how to collect water to drink to be able to survive when they are stranded alone for days together while on duty at the creek. Photo: Prashant Nakwe
In constant danger: Crabs are constant company on the creek. As part of their survival training, commandos eat raw crabs and non-poisonous snakes. Photo: Prashant Nakwe
Braving the elements: During summer, as temperatures soar above 48 degree Celsius, mirages appear. Photo: Prashant Nakwe
