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Pakistan Mountain climbing Updates

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Naila Kiani, Samina Baig become first Pakistani women to scale world’s 9th highest peak Nanga Parbat

Jamil Nagri
July 2, 2023


The photos shows mountaineers Naila Kiani (L) and Samina Baig (R).  — Courtesy Karakoram Club


The photos shows mountaineers Naila Kiani (L) and Samina Baig (R). — Courtesy Karakoram Club
 
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Polish mountaineer dies on Pakistan’s ‘killer mountain’

AFP

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SKARDU: A Polish mountaineer has died after summiting the world’s ninth-highest peak, officials said Tuesday, becoming the first casualty reported in Pakistan’s climbing season.

The Alpine Club of Pakistan said Pawel Tomasz Kopec died Monday from “acute altitude sickness” while descending from the 8,125-metre (26,656-foot) Nanga Parbat, considered one of the world’s most perilous climbs with a reported one-in-five fatality rate.

Five of the globe’s 14 mountains above 8,000 metres are in Pakistan – including Himalayan peak Nanga Parbat, which earned the nickname “killer mountain” after more than 30 people died trying to climb it before the first successful summit in 1953.

Kopec’s body remains at an altitude of 7,400 metres, said Karrar Haidari, the club’s secretary.

“It’s not possible to lift the body from the higher camps,” he told AFP.

“The helicopters cannot pick [up] from there.”

He said “it now depends on his family and friends”, who may decide to send a private expedition to retrieve his body.

Kopec, 38, was a member of the Swietokrzyski mountaineering club, which said Nanga Parbat was the climber’s second summit above 8,000 metres.

“Unfortunately, he paid the ultimate price for this achievement.”

A friend identifying himself only as Mateusz posted a tribute to Kopec’s Facebook page.

“The mountains have always driven Pawel, his life has been dedicated to them and today the mountains have finally taken this life for themselves,” he wrote.

“We trust that the spark that fuelled him will remain an inspiration for all of us to persistently pursue our dreams.”

Pakistani mountaineer Asif Bhatti, along with his climbing partner Fazal Ali, also encountered problems scaling Nanga Parbat at the weekend.

Bhatti became snowblind and the pair were stranded at one of the peak’s higher camps, but resumed their descent on Tuesday, according to Karakorum Expeditions, who are assisting with his rescue.

The summer climbing season started in early June and lasts until late August.
 
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Stranded climber descends Nanga Parbat

Jamil Nagri
July 5, 2023

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GILGIT: Mountaineer Asif Bhatti has started his descent with the help of another climber after being stranded at Nanga Parbat for more than a day, according to sources.

Mr Bhatti was part of an expedition team which started the summit push on Sunday. He suffered from snow blindness and was stranded at Camp 4 — an altitude of 7,500m. The 45-year-old climber then sought help from mountaineers at the base camp for rescue.

Sources said Mr Bhatti was being accompanied by Azerbaijani climber Israfil Ashuri during the descent after he made contact with the stranded climber. They have reached Camp 3 by Tuesday.

Two Italian climbers were also present at Camp 3 where Mr Bhatti will stay the night. He will continue the descent on Wednesday morning.

Sources said Mr Bhatti was in stable condition and maintaining good health.

A group of climbers from Shimshal were also preparing a rescue mission to help Mr Bhatti. They are waiting for a helicopter to reach camp 2 as helicopters can’t fly beyond that height.

Prime Minister Shehbaz Sharif has also directed the Gilgit-Baltistan and army authorities to immediately rescue the mountaineer, APP reported on Tuesday.

The directives came after Mr Bhatti’s son appealed to the prime minister on social media for the safe evacuation of his father.

The PM has instructed the GB chief secretary to contact Mr Bhatti’s son and assure him of immediate measures for his father’s rescue.
 
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Kashif reclimbs Manaslu, youngest to conquer 12 peaks over 8,000m​

Shehroze Kashif, 21, has already scaled world's 2 tallest mountains – Mount Everest and K2

Anadolu Agency
September 20, 2023


mountaineer shehroze kashif 21 reached the top of manaslu peak in nepal the eighth tallest mountain peak in the world photo file


Mountaineer Shehroze Kashif, 21, reached the top of Manaslu peak in Nepal – the eighth tallest mountain peak in the world. PHOTO: FILE

KARACHI:
Shehroze Kashif on Tuesday reclimbed the 8,163-metre (26,781-foot) Manaslu peak in Nepal to officially become the world's youngest mountaineer to climb 12 peaks above 8,000 metres, country's official mountaineering body said.
Kashif, 21, reached the top of Manaslu peak in Nepal – the eighth tallest mountain peak in the world, the Alpine Club of Pakistan said in a statement.

He, along with other climbers, had earlier scaled Manaslu in September 2021, however, the record was not recognized as they developed an alternative route to reach the summit, according to Karrar Haidri, secretary general of Alpine Club of Pakistan.

The opening of the new route, “Rolwaling Diversion,” had grabbed the headlines, raising questions about the mountain’s true summit.

The climbers’ technique to open a new way to reach the true summit, however, was praised by alpinists worldwide.

Kashif has already scaled the world's two tallest mountains, the Mount Everest and K2, becoming the world's youngest mountaineer to make to the top of the world, and Pakistan's youngest climber to climb the world's second-tallest peak respectively.

Broad Boy

Hailing from Lahore, Kashif started climbing at the age of 11, gradually scaling peaks ranging from 3,000 metres (9,842 feet) to 8,000 metres (26,246 feet) before ascending Mount Everest and K2.

In 2013, he scaled the 3,885-metre (12,746-foot) Makra Peak, situated in Mansehra district, while just 11 years old.

His 2019 expedition to the 8,047-metre (26,401-foot) Broad Peak, located in Gilgit-Baltistan region, earned him the title "The Broad Boy."
 
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Husband-wife duo become first Pakistani couple to summit world’s 8th highest peak Manaslu

Jamil Nagri
September 24, 2023

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Lahore-based Ahmed Uzair and Anum Uzair have become the Pakistani couple to summit the world’s eighth-highest peak Mt Manaslu — 8,163 metres tall — in Nepal.

According to mountaineering company Seven Summit Treks, which spearheaded the climb, husband-wife duo successfully climbed the peak today along with three Sherpas.

Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary Karrar Haidri told Dawn.com that husband-wife duo “have created history” by becoming the first Pakistani couple to summit the peak.

“Pakistan feels incredibly proud of this outstanding accomplishment by Ahmed and Anum,” he said.

Pakistani climber Shehroze Kashif, who himself summited Manaslu recently, also congratulated the couple.


On Thursday, Pakistani climbers Naila Kiani and Sirbaz Khan had also successfully completed the ascent of Manaslu peak.

The two climbers had commenced their summit attempt on Wednesday from camp 3.

Kiani had achieved the milestone of becoming the first Pakistani woman to conquer nine out of the 14 highest mountains in the world with her Manaslu summit.
 
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THE MOUNTAINEER FROM LARKANA

Shazia Hasan
October 1, 2023


A happy and proud Asad Ali Memon . — Photo by author


As far back as he can remember, Asad Ali Memon loved to collect posters and pictures of people involved in dangerous and extreme sports.

“Whenever I came across a picture of anyone bungee-jumping, skydiving, scuba diving, skateboarding, rock-climbing or the like, I would just stop in my tracks and stare, until someone or the other nudged me into coming back into my own world,” the 24-year-old mountain climber, the first one from Sindh to summit Mount Everest, tells Eos.

This was when Asad lived in Larkana. He was born there, he went to school there. In fact, he had never stepped out of there until six years ago, when he just happened to notice an announcement on social media about a workshop in Islamabad. “Somewhere in there I noticed the words ‘extreme sports’. It lit a spark inside me. I just had to be a part of that workshop,” he says.

The next thing he knew, Asad was on his way to Islamabad. Everything changed after, thereon. “I changed thereon,” Asad smiles.

Although the workshop was not exactly what the young man had in mind, it still introduced him to Tahir Imran Khan, his current instructor who, in turn, introduced him to rock climbing. “It was basically a workshop for folks who enjoyed outdoor activities, trekking and rock climbing. The participants there were already into these activities and here I was, absolutely raw.

An unlikely mountaineer from the plains of Sindh reached the top of Everest this summer. Now he has his eyes set on mountains in Australia and Antarctica, so that he can boast of having climbed mountains on all seven continents

“But I learned many new things, including how to tie different kinds of knots on ropes that would help me climb rocks also,” he says, adding that Islamabad offers many such opportunities because it is surrounded by hills.

With the workshop over, Asad returned to Larkana, but this time one thing was very clear in his mind. The barren plains were no place for him. He was no longer going to stay there. The mountains were calling.

“The mountains have a kind of hypnotising effect on me,” he says. “I feel like there is a bond between me and nature, and it is very strong. It gets even stronger as I climb mountains.”

Asad’s story of passion, resilience and pursuit of excellence saw him relocating to Karachi, at first for educational purposes and, then, to find ways of travelling the world to realise his dreams. Studying business at a prestigious college of Karachi, he also had an idea of how to raise money to follow his ambitions.

 Vertical strides | Photos courtesy Asad Ali Memon

Vertical strides | Photos courtesy Asad Ali Memon

“I started travelling a lot to make up for what I had missed in my formative years. I went to Murree, to Naran, to Kaghan, and I went hiking. In between, I attended multiple workshops arranged by Tahir sahib. As I went north, my ambitions were also getting higher and higher. I knew what I wanted to do,” he says.

“Gradually, I was able to upgrade myself with proper equipment, thanks to the help of some friends, and set off on my journey to climb my first ever mountain, the Minglingh Sar Peak, which lies at the core of the Shimshal Pass. Ascending from sea level to the 6,050m summit of Mingligh Sar was no less a daunting task, but I triumphantly completed it with steadfast perseverance and courage. What had once been but a fantasy had now become a thundering reality for me, and I loved every bit of it.”

Asad was hungry for more. He wanted to challenge himself.

“I wanted to build up my physical endurance, along with my strength of mind. I knew I had the willpower for it. I wanted to go for a seven summits challenge,” he says. “It required me to climb the highest peak of each of the seven continents and cross the Arctic region unaided,” he explains.

“See, we in Asia have the liberty to choose how we want to climb our mountains. There are people here who carry your luggage — the porters may even carry you on their shoulders for a little bit of extra money. But it is not like this everywhere,” Asad points out.


 Gaining height during his Everest climb

Gaining height during his Everest climb


“Every expedition, every climb is different, taking you to new heights of experience,” he says.

Of the seven mountains that he wanted to climb, he has already climbed five. Though one would think that, being Asian, Asad would have gone for Mount Everest first, Asad started in 2019 with the continent of Europe, where Mount Elbrus in Russia is the highest peak.

“Since then, I have travelled to South America, Africa and North America. Having successfully summited Cerro Aconcagua in Argentina, Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania and Mount Denali in Alaska, I felt that I was ready for Everest.” Asad summitted it in May of this year.

He says that the year 2021 was a mixed bag. “It was bad because of the world being in the grip of the Covid-19 pandemic, but it was good for me because despite that I was able to travel to Tanzania to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. On average, the 5,895-metre-high dormant volcano takes a week to climb, but I was able to do it in 20 hours,” he laughs.

But he is not always in such high spirits. He remembers how not being acclimated to the cold weather, his body took very long to adjust. “It was minus 25 degrees at Everest base camp alone, and it took me three weeks to just be able to sleep in that kind of low temperature. Still, I triumphed,” he beams.

So what’s next on his agenda? “The two remaining continents, Antarctica and Australia, of course,” he says, adding that he is looking forward to climbing Antarctica’s Mount Vinson, which may not be very high but would test his endurance, as he will be carrying all his stuff on his shoulders and on a sledge, because there are also no porters there for this kind of work.

He also points out that the highest peak of Australia, Puncak Jaya, is technically in Indonesia.

“Maybe my climbing career didn’t have an ideal start. I come from a very simple family, where it is a luxury to be able to pay for one’s education, leave alone pursue hobbies. But mountain climbing has taken me places. And to get to these places, I raise the funds myself, by arranging sponsorship. I started this way and I’m still doing it. For the Everest climb, I’m indebted to the Sindh Government, especially the mayor of Karachi, Barrister Murtaza Wahab, who personally supported me,” he says.

Asad wants to meet the mayor again to convince him to build a rock climbing facility for the youth of Karachi. “So that they can discover the thrill of it themselves right here, instead of having to go to Islamabad like me,” he smiles.
 

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