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Over 150 people attended K2 this year.
What devastating effects will be on the future of K2. Before that, let's find the answer to the question that is in the minds of many and many friends. I have been asked in the inbox that in your opinion what was the reason why the mountaineers got so much success this time on K2.
Before giving my opinion, let me say that I started reading the history of mountaineering regularly in 2009 for my hobby. Scoured the internet to countless articles, blogs and alpine writings with detail and passion.
Read. Whereas since 2009 I have been observing not only closely but also monitoring and reporting every year the Pakistani 8000 peaks especially at Nanga Parbat and K2 mountaineering. Nevertheless, I have this information. Definitely limited and flawed so I would urge my own readers to take my opinion merely as a point of view.
In my view, there are 4 big following reasons for summits being so large at K2.
1. Fixed Line:
Experienced and highly trained pliers of Nepalese companies installed strong fixed line by roping on the most difficult parts of the K2 Abrozi route such as House Chimney, Black Pyramid, The Battle Neck and Circus Traverse, causing a major risk of climbing. In the language of mountaineering say fall danger (fear of falling and dying) that risk was reduced by about 99%. In this situation the client climber only know jummaring he will climb the mountain easily. The use of jummar is very basic and oli of mountaineering N Can only be learned in courses.
To make their business plans at K2 a success this year, Nepali companies used thousands of meters of long ropes and more than 100 arches and high altitude porters to install fixed lines. 5 top-level arches from three major mountaineering companies نے Lakpa Sherpa, the most difficult and dangerous section in the Death Zone of K2 secured the route from Battle Neck to Cirque Traverse and Summit by setting a fixed line and summit on the night of July 21. Thereafter walking on the same fixed line the next day. More than 100 people gathered.
2. Sharpa or porter help:
In the past, climbers used to do camp-to-camp climbing by carrying their own equipment. 10 years ago, Nepal introduced 'Sharpa Help' when commercializing mountaineering in a new way by legislating a way that can climb on any eight thousand peaks in Nepal. While issuing the measurement permit, at least one sharpa was made compulsory.
The latest amendment to the law makes it mandatory to hire a porter or guide for trekking upto 3000 metres in Nepal. Done. There is no such law in Pakistan, that is why the people of Gilgit-Baltistan associated with mountaineering are suffering from employment problems and are on low wages which are exploited by Nepali companies and they themselves take thousands of dollars from their clients to a few thousand rupees. Awaz hire Pakistani porters. So Nepalis companies made climbing plan according to 1:1 rate at K2 means at least one Sherpa or one porter must be with a client to lift his stuff and assist him at every campsite, tents set up Do and provide food and drinks too.
Since K2 is the toughest mountain, Nepali companies this year unconsciously increased this rate to 1:1.7 i.e. at least 5 sharpa for every 3 clients to help. Eg. Narmal Purja's company Elite Exped brought 11 clients to the summit with the help of 21 porters, thus a total of 32 people reached the summit. According to statistics, out of the total +150 summits at K2 this year, +100 summits were done by Arpa or High Altitude Porters. i.e. from 50 More than 100 helpers were used to bring 60 aspiring gentlemen to the K2 summit.
3. The use of artificial oxygen:
About 70% of the total 337 summits held on K2 from 1954 to 2012 took place without artificial oxygen, while only 3% of the total +350 summits from 2012 to 2022 were without artificial oxygen, i.e. 97% of summits are artificial. Used oxygen. Even if only this year, only 10 to 15 climbers in +150 summits did not use artificial oxygen while all others did with artificial oxygen.
Only this scientific research is sufficient to know the benefits of using artificial oxygen according to which if the human body uses artificial oxygen at 8000 meters i.e. death zone with standard flow speed of 4L/Min, it will be the same as if you are just 3050. At a height of meters. Using artificial oxygen increases the energy you need to climb mountains by many times. That's why all modern climbers of Polish climbers, including the great climber Rhinehold Messner, Dennis Arubko and Adam Belicki, use artificial oxygen. N The use of doping and foul play. To them since mountaineering is considered the ultimate test of the human body abilities it should be without any other biological assistance and mechanical assistance should also be limited. They are already fixed The line is also considered a foul play.
4. Climate change or climate change:
Climate change has changed the ecosystem of the most mountains and glaciers on this planet. Rapid changes in glaciers and ice formation are taking place on all of the 14 largest eight thousand mountains in the world. British female mountaineer Adriana Brown Lee 2 After heading to Nanga Parbat in July, a very important Instagram post stating that the upper slopes of Nanga Parbat have become dangerously hot, he “melting the area on the vast icefield located at 7200 metres near Camp.4 on Nanga Parbat. Named the pot where the factors of "snow slush" and "slab avalanches" were rapidly moving. Similarly, a week ago, the modern-day great climber Dennis Arubko also around the icefield at 7500 meters above the Broad Pack. Climate changes have been identified. So according to a careful estimate this year lower 8000ers i.e. slightly lesser elevation eight thousand mountains such as Nanga Parbat 8126m and Broadpack 8051m high which are 126 and 51m high instead of 8000m The effects of climate change or climate change are very much.
However, since K2 is raised to 611 vertical meters above 8000 meters, its upper slopes are still slightly less. This advantage started to receive the mountaineers positively since last year 2021. He Thus, the snow storms that came after less snowfall on the upper slopes threw the powder snow accumulated there on the lower slopes and thus 8000 meters above K2, which in the past was knee-deep or waist-deep The difficulty that lead climbers used to take several hours to trail-breaking the ice is over by 2021. This is the famous blogger of Garrett Madison, the owner of the famous American mountaineering company Madison Mountaineering and who has crossed K2 four times. The podcast interview given to Elaine Arnetti five years ago was very important in which she explained that for the first time during the summit push of K2, she reached the summit in just 6 hours starting from Camp 4, i.e. 7800 meters.
Here's the reason according to her It was that in the death zone there was either no powder snow or very little ankle-deep and due to the good weather it was easy to walk on solid ice surface. So they reached the summit in just 6 hours.
This year too So it happened and Norwegian female mountaineer had reached the summit push at 8:30pm with her team of 3 axes and reached the summit in 6 hours at 2:30am. In the past only from Battle Neck 8216 meters to Cirque Traverse 8425 meters Climbing the maximum section of just 200 vertical meters takes 6 to 8 hours. And the summit push from camp 4 to peak takes a total of 16 to 18 hours. So there's a huge difference between spending 18 hours in the death zone and 8.10 hours. Per Currently, the effects of climate change are positive on K2, which may be destroyed in the coming years.
It can be easily analysed in light of all the above factors and reasons that so many people have skipped K2 so easily due to fixed line, sharpa help, use of artificial oxygen and the currently beneficial effects of climate change on K2. Just think That if 5 Nepalese had not lined up to Sharpa Summit on the night of 21 July, was it possible that more than 100 people could reach the summit the next morning. And that too with the help of 100 Sharpaans reaching the summit of 50,60 clients. Past K2 Sir There is no greater feat than doing climbers.
Past climbers carrying their own luggage and making their own way up the mountain without oxygen through their own breaths their body's ability to sink into waist deep ice in the death zone And used to reach the peak by touching the last limits of Stemna.
The desire of wealthy people to reach the top of the mountain has been exploited by Nepalese through their business model and made it a source of income and this year their experiment K2 Thaa. To take this commercialized climbing to the next level in the future to generate more income, Nepalese have already planned for next year which is practical.
Owner of Elite Exped of Nepali Sharpa Company today dated 29th July 2022 Nirmal Purja shared a post on his Facebook page. According to this post, creating a new route on K2 is the need of the time, so he will head K2 through the new route in the future. Apparently it looks very good but I will present in my next post the detailed review of the new strategic undertaker behind the curtain business and present the plan of Nepalese with proof to destroy K2 ecosystem and mountaineering in future Want to. Wait for next post.. (In progress)
And we have nothing to do except to report.
(Research and writing: Imran Haider Thaheem)
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