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Pakistan Army commandos successfully rescued climbers from Holland, Singapore, and Ecuador who fell ill due to severe weather while attempting to summit K2. The climbers praised the swift response and medical aid provided by the Pakistan Army, crediting them with saving their lives. “We are grateful to the Pakistan Army for rescuing us in such dire circumstances,” one climber stated.


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8:26 AM · Jul 25, 2024
 
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Three young climbers scale 6,050m Thalo Zom Peak in Swat

Our Correspondent
July 27, 2024


 the mountaineers on their way to scale Thalo Zom Peak in Swat. — Dawn


the mountaineers on their way to scale Thalo Zom Peak in Swat. — Dawn

SWAT: Three young mountaineers successfully climbed the 6,050-meter-high Thalo Zom peak on the Swat-Chitral border, marking the first time the local climbers having accomplished the feat.
Thalo Zom in the Pamir Hindukush region was first climbed on August 12, 1971, by a team from Graz, Austria, led by Herbert Zeffer.

It was then climbed in 2019 by a team comprising Koki Gassiot (Catalonia-Spain), Massimo Marconi and Andrea Bollati (both Italian), and Samiullah Ghaznavi, Sadam Hussain and Abrar Saeed, three young local mountaineers under Mountain Wilderness International’s Asian Desk.

The three-member Swati mountaineers’ team led by Zeeshan Umar and comprising Seth Noman and Mian Syed Ali successfully summited the peak using their own resources and guidance. They said they grew up amid snow-covered high mountains in Swat and wanted to climb them since childhood.
 

Two Japanese climbers go missing while trying to summit K2: official

Jamil Nagri
July 27, 2024

Two Japanese climbers went missing while attempting to scale the 8,611-metre-tall K2 peak, the second-highest mountain in the world, on Saturday morning.

Shigar Deputy Commissioner (DC) Waliullah Falahi told Dawn.com that Japanese climbers Kazuya Hirade and Kenro Nakajima fell down from a height of 7,500m, west of K2.

He said Pakistan Army helicopters conducted a search operation in the area, adding that two military helicopters flew from Skardu and searched for the climbers at the peak.

He said they spotted the fallen climbers below the 100m mark but it was observed that the men had no movement.
The DC said the helicopters could not land or hover at the altitude, adding that a ground rescue team would be prepared to retrieve the two men.

He said it was not known if either of them was alive or dead.

Meanwhile, 12 Pakistanis, one Russian and two Nepalese climbers summited Broad Peak (8,051m) on Saturday morning in a short window with good weather.

During summit pushes at K2 and Gasherbrum-I, climbers reached a decisive stage days before the end of climbing season at the Karakoram range, aiming to reach the summits on Sunday.


The K2 expedition team pushes for the summit on July 27. — Summit Karakoram

The K2 expedition team pushes for the summit on July 27. — Summit Karakoram

More than 2,000 local and foreign mountaineers are attempting to scale mountains in Gilgit-Baltistan this year, including eight-thousanders (mountains exceeding 8,000m in height) K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum-I, Gasherbrum-II and Nanga Parbat.

According to Karakoram Expeditions, led by renowned climber Mirza Ali, nine members of the expedition Ahmed Baig, Arshad Karim, Rizwan Dad, Waqar Ali, Daulat Muhammad, Afreen Shah, Zaman Karim from Shimshal Valley of Gilgit-Baltistan, Murad Ali from Balochistan and Iya Pershina from Russia summited Broad peak at 7:15am today.

“We are excited to announce that Team Karakorum Expeditions has successfully summited Broad Peak and fixed ropes all the way to the summit this morning! Braving waist-deep snow, our team worked tirelessly through challenging conditions all night long,” the company posted on its Facebook page.

The post adds that the team departed from Camp 2 at 5:30am and continued from Camp 3 at 11am, “ploughing through deep snow and navigating new exposed crevasses”.

Mirza, whose sister is renowned mountaineer Samina Baig, expressed his pride: “I am overjoyed by the courage and tenacity of my team. Their ability to navigate through waist-deep snow and install fixed ropes all the way to the summit exemplifies the spirit of mountaineering.”

Another four-member expedition from the Pakistani Broadboy Adventures team, led by Shehroze Kashif — the youngest Pakistani climber to summit K2 — successfully scaled Broad Peak at 11:30am, raising the green flag high.

In a statement, Kashif said the challenging expedition had a narrow window but was worth every effort.

The summiteers included Aamar Butt, a resident of the USA; Anum Uzair from Lahore and Ali Akbar and Ali, both from GB’s Houshe.
“We are eagerly waiting and praying for their safe descent to Basecamp,” Kashif added.

Meanwhile, Sunu Sherpa from Nepal set a world record for climbing the peak a third time with Summit Karakoram.

Summit Karakoram CEO Iqbal Qadri told Dawn that Sunu was climbing in Alpine style. Sunu has summited the world’s 14 eight-thousanders twice.
“Sunu Sherpa now attempting to scale 14 eight-thousanders for the third time, he is going to set a world record,” he said.

He congratulated Sunu on successfully climbing Broad Peak. “Your determination, skill, and perseverance have paid off, and this achievement is a testament to your exceptional mountaineering abilities. Well done!” he said.

Imagine Nepal expedition member Pasang Namgyal Sherpa also conquered Broad Peak on Saturday morning.

A statement from the organiser read, “Our esteemed senior climbing guide, Pasang Namgyal Sherpa, has successfully summited Broad Peak this morning, on Saturday.

“We are profoundly proud of his extraordinary feats and eagerly anticipate his future pursuits in high-altitude climbing. Heartiest congratulations, Pasang Namgyal Sherpa, on this historic triumph!” the post concluded

Climbers waited at K2 base camp for good weather for one month, before pushing for the summit on Friday.

On Saturday, the foreign and local climbers were able to reach Camp 4. Mingma G, the owner of Imagine Nepal and one of the climbers, said on Facebook that a rope-fixing team was at work to help the expedition reach the summit.

“We didn’t expect this much snow on K2 this time after weeks and weeks of high wind. I am another Instagram finger activists reporting from camp3,” Mingma wrote.
“Hopefully write here again
from K2 summit tomorrow morning.”

https://www.facebook.com/sharer/sha...awn.com/news/1848345&display=popup&ref=plugin
 

She conquered Everest 10 times - and escaped an abusive marriage​


Helen Bushby
Culture reporter

Getty Images Lhakpa Sherpa pictured in 2016 wearing an orange anorak
Getty Images
Lhakpa Sherpa says: "I want to show my two girls how to be brave, how not to give up"

This article contains descriptions of domestic violence which some readers may find distressing.
Lhakpa Sherpa has a startling life story - to the outside world she holds the record for climbing Mount Everest a staggering 10 times, the most of any woman.

But behind the scenes, her personal life has been dangerous and fearful.
While conquering the world's highest mountain, she says she was enduring domestic abuse from her husband - including during their 2004 descent from Everest.

Now based in America, she has raised three children, supporting them by working in a grocery store and as a cleaner.
Her life - on and off the mountain - has been made into a Netflix documentary, Mountain Queen: The Summits of Lhakpa Sherpa, directed by Lucy Walker.
Sherpa is proud of the film.


Eyes blazing, she tells the BBC: "I want to show people women can do it."

Netflix Lhakpa Sherpa on a ladder over a steep mountain drop
Netflix
Sherpa can climb the world's highest mountain with minimal training

What is perhaps surprising about her record-breaking climbs is that she does so with little training.

Climbing Everest can be fatal - there have been more than 300 deaths in the region since records of mountain climbing there began a century ago.

So it's vital to be in peak condition.

In the film, we see Sherpa keep fit by walking in the Connecticut mountains. But she also carries on with her normal working life, out of necessity.

"You're an exceptional athlete," Walker tells Sherpa during our interview. "Very tall. Very strong.

"People underestimate it. It's an unbelievable accomplishment that you can climb Everest from doing your day job."
Sherpa responds: "I'm not good with being educated, but I'm very good with the mountains."

Netflix Lhakpa Sherpa working in a supermarket
Netflix

Working in a US grocery store is one of the ways Sherpa supports her family

Born in 1973 to yak farmers in the Nepalese Himalayas, she was one of 11 children.

Crucially, she was raised in an area where education for girls wasn't a priority - she carried her brother to school for hours through the hills, but wasn't allowed inside.

Things are now improving in Nepal - women's literacy rocketed from 10% in 1981 to 70% by 2021.

But Sherpa's lack of education left lasting consequences - she's still unable to read.

Things people take for granted, like using a TV remote control, are difficult for her.

Her son Nima, born in the late 90s, and daughters Sunny, 22, and Shiny, 17, help bridge the gaps.

Netflix Lhakpa Sherpa smiling on a mountain with a flag
Netflix
Sherpa's skills and passion are focused on climbing

With no schooling, by the time she was 15, Sherpa was working as a porter on mountain expeditions - often as the only girl.
 
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