Devil Soul
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From Lahore to Amritsar — A Sufi, a Sikh and their message of love
TAIMUR SHAMIL — UPDATED 35 MINUTES AGO
Sufi music and architecture has always fascinated me. Consequently, I have taken it upon myself to explore the tribal areas of North Pakistan and the remote areas of Sindh to learn as much as I can about the Sufi culture.
During recent travels, I happened upon the shrine of renowned Sufi saint Hazrat Mian Mir of the Qadariyyah Sufi order in Lahore.
Pigeons are attracted to the serenity of shrine. —Photo by Abdullah Khan
The mosque area attached with the shrine. —Photo by Abdullah Khan
The shrine is situated in what T.S Eliot calls, “streets that follow like a tedious argument”.
The saint’s life history, however, contains clear messages of peace. His times were soon to be followed by cultural degradation and “insidious intents”.
A front view of the shrine. —Photo by Abdullah Khan
The shrine's gate bearing Persian inscription. —Photo by Abdullah Khan
Surrounded by a populated area, the shrine is home to many poor people to whom it provides free shelter, and food on Thursdays.
“Thursday evening is considered to be a Mubarak day for Sufis,” explained Ghulam Fareed, a Qawwal vocalist. Him, along with other Qawwals, have been regular visitors at this shrine. He sings here because he feels the act gives him a sense of belonging.
“This shrine has given us an identity.”
Devotees at the shrine. —Photo by Abdullah Khan
Singing qawwalis here also helps them make a living. After interacting with a few Qawwals, I realised that it’s not just mere appreciation and money; these Qawwals spoke with a sense of purpose as well.
To them, Sufi singing is a way to spread the message of unity and harmony, and they take immense pride in it.
Here, every Thursday, Qawwals sing in the courtyard of the shrine, while men and women clap and sway to the rhythm. Some men dance in ecstasy, some sing along, while others pay their tributes to the saint by bowing in front of his grave.
The air is filled with the mixed scent of roses and locally-made incense. Salvers of sweets and other food items are distributed among the crowd, both inside and outside of the shrine.
There are certain food items that are specific to the Sufi shrines in Lahore and can be found around Mian Mir; for instance, Qatlaammay (desi pizza) andDoodh Badam (milk with nuts).
Vendors selling food. —Photo by Abdullah Khan
On the outskirts of the shrine, vendors swarm the place. They sell dahi baray,chaat, sharbat and samosas to the visitors.
One of the samosa vendors, Akbar Shakir feels he doesn't belong in the posh areas of Lahore, only here in the street next to the shrine.
“Quality is not ensured at these rairrhis but is it ensured at the hotels?” questioned Aleem Khan, a visitor to the darbar. “After seeing what's going on in expensive food chains that people dine in, I think we are better off over here,” he added, pointing to the samosa carts close by.
A woman lighting up a chiraagh — a ritual mostly seen at Sufi shrines in the sub-continent. —Photo by Abdullah Khan
Women constitute a huge number of devotees here.
“I was sick for the last two years,” said Sakeena, 32. “I went to many doctors and hakeems but no one knew what my problem was. I took medicines but nothing worked. Then one day, my mother asked me to go to the shrine and pray for myself. I am much better since then. I believe that Awlia (friends of God) have the power to make things work for you,” she added thoughtfully.
Women at the shrine. —Photo by Abdullah Khan
TAIMUR SHAMIL — UPDATED 35 MINUTES AGO
Sufi music and architecture has always fascinated me. Consequently, I have taken it upon myself to explore the tribal areas of North Pakistan and the remote areas of Sindh to learn as much as I can about the Sufi culture.
During recent travels, I happened upon the shrine of renowned Sufi saint Hazrat Mian Mir of the Qadariyyah Sufi order in Lahore.
The shrine is situated in what T.S Eliot calls, “streets that follow like a tedious argument”.
The saint’s life history, however, contains clear messages of peace. His times were soon to be followed by cultural degradation and “insidious intents”.
Surrounded by a populated area, the shrine is home to many poor people to whom it provides free shelter, and food on Thursdays.
“Thursday evening is considered to be a Mubarak day for Sufis,” explained Ghulam Fareed, a Qawwal vocalist. Him, along with other Qawwals, have been regular visitors at this shrine. He sings here because he feels the act gives him a sense of belonging.
“This shrine has given us an identity.”
Singing qawwalis here also helps them make a living. After interacting with a few Qawwals, I realised that it’s not just mere appreciation and money; these Qawwals spoke with a sense of purpose as well.
To them, Sufi singing is a way to spread the message of unity and harmony, and they take immense pride in it.
Here, every Thursday, Qawwals sing in the courtyard of the shrine, while men and women clap and sway to the rhythm. Some men dance in ecstasy, some sing along, while others pay their tributes to the saint by bowing in front of his grave.
The air is filled with the mixed scent of roses and locally-made incense. Salvers of sweets and other food items are distributed among the crowd, both inside and outside of the shrine.
There are certain food items that are specific to the Sufi shrines in Lahore and can be found around Mian Mir; for instance, Qatlaammay (desi pizza) andDoodh Badam (milk with nuts).
On the outskirts of the shrine, vendors swarm the place. They sell dahi baray,chaat, sharbat and samosas to the visitors.
One of the samosa vendors, Akbar Shakir feels he doesn't belong in the posh areas of Lahore, only here in the street next to the shrine.
“Quality is not ensured at these rairrhis but is it ensured at the hotels?” questioned Aleem Khan, a visitor to the darbar. “After seeing what's going on in expensive food chains that people dine in, I think we are better off over here,” he added, pointing to the samosa carts close by.
Women constitute a huge number of devotees here.
“I was sick for the last two years,” said Sakeena, 32. “I went to many doctors and hakeems but no one knew what my problem was. I took medicines but nothing worked. Then one day, my mother asked me to go to the shrine and pray for myself. I am much better since then. I believe that Awlia (friends of God) have the power to make things work for you,” she added thoughtfully.
