Exploring Rama Meadows and the isolation at Naltar

[Devil Soul]

Exploring Rama Meadows and the isolation at Naltar
SYED MEHDI BUKHARI

Road to Astore from Chillam. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari
Earlier in my writeup on Deosai, I mentioned a grave of a young man. The valley is enveloped in darkness as I leave the place, my next destination being Astore.

Several trees grow along the trail with large shrubs running along each side of the route from Chillam to Astore. The course is just like any other mountainous route — uneven and bumpy. Passing through small towns and villages on the flank of the mountain, one can see a stream of ice-cold water gushing out from Deosai.

Road to Astore from Chillam. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Nangaparbath South Ridge. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Astore. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Rama Meadows. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Rama Meadows. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Sunset on Nangaparbat in Rama. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

 

[Devil Soul]

Rama Meadows. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari
Ever since the dawn of civilization, humans have not only preferred living close to water but have also preferred travelling parallel to it for easier access. Walking through these vacant lands I can see dozens of villages and communities situated next to water springs, and then no settlements for long stretches.

Walking in the wilderness through small landslides along the Southern ridges of Nanga Parbat, there is no sight or sound of human beings for miles. Local men seldom show up with their herd of sheep and goats.

Going straight on Ratu is Astore, a small city and the central location of the district.

It is said that a mountaineer named Ghazi Makhpun arrived in the area and married a girl from Skardu’s royal family. His four sons became rulers of Skardu, Astore, Rondu, and Kharmang, and eventually the Dogras became powerful.

The Astore Bazaar brims with life. It is a town filled with noise and excitement and feels just like Peshawar. The sounds of jeeps, barbers, workshops, fruit and vegetable vendors and others surrounded the life around Astore.

But as soon as the sun hides behind the mountains, it gets so quiet, it is as if no human has ever been here before. A road from the bazaar takes you to Rama village, and right after this village is a beautiful and serene plain called Rama Meadow.

If you ever happen to find yourself in plain, ice-cold and milk-white water flowing in streams, sheep and cows grazing in peace, pine trees, Chongra’s ice-covered peak in background, and Nanga Parbat’s southern ridge is in view, then you are probably in Rama Meadow.

Just a little ahead of Rama Village, which is 11 kilometers from Astore, is Rama Meadow.

Since it had higher ridges than Astore, the jeep takes more than an hour to reach here, although there’s not much distance between the two. Women working in potato fields, happy children, and a scented atmosphere are the characteristics that define what we call, Rama village.

From Rama Meadow, a jeep road turns to Rama lake. You may miss the lake at first sight, but it is a fun ride up till here with Nanga Parbat in front and the forests alongside creating a strange sensation.

I decided to stay in the rest house of the forest. It is so cold here even in the summers. As the sun sets, I pick up a lantern and hit the meadow. There is no one there, except for a few people. The memories from the night are fresh in my mind to date.

Rama Meadows. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Rama village and Nangaparbat. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Rama Meadows. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

 

[Devil Soul]

Night in Rama meadows. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Night in Rama Meadows. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Night in Rama Meadows. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari
There are only two motels in Rama Meadow; one is the Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC) and the other, the Forest department.

One evening while sitting in the lawn of the Forest department's rest house, a group of female students of a Peshawar university decide to come and set camp.

The group of about 200 girls set their camps in no time, but forget to make an arrangement for washrooms. Since some military men are staying in the PTDC motel, it is inaccessible to anyone. Now there is only one washroom available, and that is in my rest house, next to my room.

The group manager, who is a doctor himself, and a very nice person, asks my permission to use the washroom. There isn’t any option but to say yes. Now I have to sit in the lawn the whole night; I am shivering and cursing myself.

The next morning there is a knock on my door again, and I get the silent message and decide to leave Rama.

Campsite in Rama. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Towards Naltar lake. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Towards Naltar lake. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Naltar lake. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Naltar lake. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

 

[Devil Soul]

Naltar lake. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari
My next stop is Naltar Valley. A paved but narrow road goes from Astore to Karakoram Highway, parallel to the river. The river and the road, both are equally frightening. Astore River merges in River Indus from here. Naltar is famous for its colorful lakes, it is situated at a drive of 2.5 hours from Gilgit. World’s tastiest potatoes are cultivated here. Covered with pine trees, this valley doesn’t seem to be a part of this world.

The population of Naltar mainly comprises Gujjars. Move ahead of the town, and there are lakes. The water is crystal clear with green plants easily visible at the base.

When I reach the lake after days of struggle with the Naltar’s snow, which hasn’t melted yet. The sunlight makes the snow softer, my feet stick in it easily. At some points, my legs are getting completely stuck in snow but this does not stop me from making it to the beautiful lake.

Suddenly the weather changes, and the sky becomes cloudy. I am finally here, turquoise waters with small islands in the middle, with strange shaped stones shining on the islands.

Small fish welcome me here. I don’t know which species they belong to, but in the mountains, one feels lucky to meet a life other than his own.

Naltar in winter. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Naltar in winter. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Naltar in winter. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Naltar in winter. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Naltar river. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Naltar river. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

Naltar lake. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari
If you really want to experience paradise in this world, you should visit Naltar at least once. This place will make you fall in love with it.

Translated by Bilal Karim Mughal from the original in Urdu here.

The writer is a network engineer by profession, and a traveler, poet, photographer and writer by passion. He can be reached on Facebook.

 

[Sulman Badshah]

Just love the Blue lake/Naltar Lake

 

[WAJsal]

Who wouldn't want to live in this place . Thanks for the share guys . @Shamain , @Akheilos , @IrbiS , @jamahir , @utraash , @levina , @krash , @Color_Less_Sky ..............

 

[I.R.A]

So much beauty unexplored or even heard of and our lives get wasted for a piece of paper.

 

[utraash]

Who wouldn't want to live in this place . Thanks for the share guys . @Shamain , @Akheilos , @IrbiS , @jamahir , @utraash , @levina , @krash , @Color_Less_Sky ..............

Nature's paradise.....

 

[jamahir]

Nangaparbath South Ridge. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

this is the first time i am seeing a snowy peak at such close range and resolution... looks like the ice-cream transparent fridge they have in ice-cream parlors.

Astore. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

this looks like photos i have seen of indian kashmir and indian punjab.

Rama Meadows. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

@levina , have you been to gulmarg?? this photo reminds me of photos from there.

Rama Meadows. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

ah, beautiful... a sunlit meadow right out of books.

Sunset on Nangaparbat in Rama. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

those peaks look like molten rock... nice !!!

His four sons became rulers of Skardu, Astore, Rondu, and Kharmang

now that's a funny name... who would want to be called rondu.

The group of about 200 girls set their camps in no time, but forget to make an arrangement for washrooms. Since some military men are staying in the PTDC motel, it is inaccessible to anyone. Now there is only one washroom available, and that is in my rest house, next to my room.

The group manager, who is a doctor himself, and a very nice person, asks my permission to use the washroom. There isn’t any option but to say yes. Now I have to sit in the lawn the whole night; I am shivering and cursing myself.

The next morning there is a knock on my door again, and I get the silent message and decide to leave Rama.

poor chap.

Towards Naltar lake. — Syed Mehdi Bukhari

now that's a professional shot.

So much beauty unexplored or even heard of and our lives get wasted for a piece of paper.

money or political map??

 

[I.R.A]

money or political map??

Money janab, otherwise yeh zameen ALLAH ki hai aur insan uss ka khalifa hai

 

[jamahir]

Money janab, otherwise yeh zameen ALLAH ki hai aur insan uss ka khalifa hai

well said.

 

[aks18]

beautiful place no Doubt Gilgit Baltistan is amazing land and my favorite destination for vacations

 

[Levina]

Who wouldn't want to live in this place . Thanks for the share guys . @Shamain , @Akheilos , @IrbiS , @jamahir , @utraash , @levina , @krash , @Color_Less_Sky ..............

Awesome!

 

[Umair Nawaz]

All of the guys who dont know, Rama is pronounced as Ram'ma.

this is the first time i am seeing a snowy peak at such close range and resolution... looks like the ice-cream transparent fridge they have in ice-cream parlors.



this looks like photos i have seen of indian kashmir and indian punjab.



@levina , have you been to gulmarg?? this photo reminds me of photos from there.



ah, beautiful... a sunlit meadow right out of books.



those peaks look like molten rock... nice !!!



now that's a funny name... who would want to be called rondu.



poor chap.



now that's a professional shot.



money or political map??

check this if yr a fan of peaks covered in show.

 

[indiatester]

@Devil Soul Very beautiful pictures!
Thanks for posting