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In US used European car has lowest market when come to Japanese top brand, Lexus, MDX etc. German introduced hundreds of maintenance sensor in there car , how can Pakistani " ustad/mechanic " will understand the circuit board....
Here people avoid to confront European cars. Because need very deep pockets to maintained these cars.
Toyota corolla zindabad

Hence the extended warranty. You don't have to pay a dime if you have extended warranty. Since they have poor resale value, hence cost cheaper comparatively, not to mention healthy incentives.

I am targeting for VW Tiguan US specs along with the extended warranty in the next year or the year after. #finger crossed :D
 
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after 3 years; electricals fail; water and fuel pump go; in RSA we have a long history with VW; Audi & BMW are the highest depreciating vehicles in entire list of vehicles on the road; noone touches them 2nd hand as parts are more expensive and very specific.

Hi,

As I have written before---I have had millionaires crying their hearts over 15---20000 dollars engine repair bills on their 7 and 8 series cars---.

That is why 80% sale of new luxury cars in the U S is in the form of lease---and then they become certified used cars with very good warranty..

Initial buying price isn't the only consideration that has to be put into the decision of buying a car.

Audi/BMW/Mercedes/Saab/Volkswagen/Volvo are expensive cars to maintain. Brake rotors for a Toyota/Honda cost maybe $28 a piece, for the European cars $38-50.

And that i'm not talking about the more extensive diagnostics or repairs where you have to take off entire pieces or remove the engine/transmission from the body. For one simple thing you have to remove 2 things to get to it.

Want to change the Timing belt or Waterpump? Easiest way is to remove the entire front bumper, headlights, radiator & support, under carriage covers, & bumper support. That takes almost 1/2 of the repair time of the entire job, and that's if you have the memory to know what nuts and bolts go where when your reassembling the car again.

This is from experience of working at my father's repair shop.

I had to change the control arms on my VW Passat (similar to A4) the 4 parts themselves hardly weighting 1 pound came out to $600, I took a shortcut to replacing them by not removing the struts, took me 3 hours of pplying and parring and cursing.
In US used European car has lowest market when come to Japanese top brand, Lexus, MDX etc. German introduced hundreds of maintenance sensor in there car , how can Pakistani " ustad/mechanic " will understand the circuit board....
Here people avoid to confront European cars. Because need very deep pockets to maintained these cars.
Toyota corolla zindabad

Hi,

The best thing to do is use youtube video---type in the year and make model and problem and you have a video sloution.
 
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You guys dont know much You only Compare price to honda and other but for these brands the major problem is Resell Value 2nd Hard to get parts mostly cost u double

thats why people like to go with local brands
 
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Hi,

As I have written before---I have had millionaires crying their hearts over 15---20000 dollars engine repair bills on their 7 and 8 series cars---.

That is why 80% sale of new luxury cars in the U S is in the form of lease---and then they become certified used cars with very good warranty..




Hi,

The best thing to do is use youtube video---type in the year and make model and problem and you have a video sloution.
Sir ji itna simple hota tu kiaa baat thee.....only removing the top engine shield take hours.
 
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Sir ji itna simple hota tu kiaa baat thee.....only removing the top engine shield take hours.

Hi,

You are right---but it gets easier if you have a video to give you a start.

Like I have a toyota sienna minivan that I needed to replace the front shocks----it is stupidly outrageously nincompooply designed procedure to remove tons of other items to get to the strut assembly---.

So---I looked at a you tube video to get the start---and after that it was easy---though time consuming.

Note:---No it was not easy---it was extremely difficult---even though I had the tool to compress the springs and-=--even before using the spring compressor----I had used hanger wires to hold the springs compressed before taking them off the strut----it was very very difficult without a bench vice---.
 
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As I have written before---I have had millionaires crying their hearts over 15---20000 dollars engine repair bills on their 7 and 8 series cars---.

Are you talking about complete overhauls?

Note:---No it was not easy---it was extremely difficult---even though I had the tool to compress the springs and-=--even before using the spring compressor----I had used hanger wires to hold the springs compressed before taking them off the strut----it was very very difficult without a bench vice---.

Ready assembled struts, Moog makes them god quality usually might have to wait a day or 2.
 
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Hence the extended warranty. You don't have to pay a dime if you have extended warranty. Since they have poor resale value, hence cost cheaper comparatively, not to mention healthy incentives.

I am targeting for VW Tiguan US specs along with the extended warranty in the next year or the year after. #finger crossed :D

The tiguan get rated the worst for reliability issues... it is one of the only cars who's online fan forum is flooded by complains by people who should be fan-boys.

Warned.
 
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Are you talking about complete overhauls?



Ready assembled struts, Moog makes them god quality usually might have to wait a day or 2.

Hi,

Yessir----.

Yeah---I should have bought the complete assembly---ie with the spring already installed----but I prefer the original factory spring over the aftermarket---.

When I was younger---it was so easy---now at 59---it is not so easy---. The mind runs faster than the body.
 
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Hi,

1.0 turbo charged engine would be sufficient for pakistani market and roads---. It would not only be turbo charged but would have TFSI as well.

Here is a link for different websites that would share with you what the audi 2.0L output is---.

https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8&q=audi 2..0 L engine horspower&oq=audi 2..0 L engine horspower&aqs=chrome..69i57.16638j0j7

It is not about the horsepower---but what is the TORQUE---at what RPM's that makes the car go.

If audi is putting in a 1.0L----turbo---it would be sufficient---maybe like a 1.8 L NA engine or more in get up and go.
Hi,

1.0 turbo charged engine would be sufficient for pakistani market and roads---. It would not only be turbo charged but would have TFSI as well.

Here is a link for different websites that would share with you what the audi 2.0L output is---.

https://www.google.com/search?sourceid=chrome-psyapi2&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8&q=audi 2..0 L engine horspower&oq=audi 2..0 L engine horspower&aqs=chrome..69i57.16638j0j7

It is not about the horsepower---but what is the TORQUE---at what RPM's that makes the car go.

If audi is putting in a 1.0L----turbo---it would be sufficient---maybe like a 1.8 L NA engine or more in get up and go.
Sir, 1.0L engine if turbocharged on all 4 cylinders would increase at to 1.1 -1.2 L. Pretty good but the fuel consumption would get poor.
Any idea what 1.0L consumption per litter is?
 
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Sir, 1.0L engine if turbocharged on all 4 cylinders would increase at to 1.1 -1.2 L. Pretty good but the fuel consumption would get poor.
Any idea what 1.0L consumption per litter is?

Hi,

Some turbo charged 1.0 L engines can put ot shame some V8 engines in horsepower---.

Anyway---the consumption would be in the range of 35-40 miles per gallon.
 
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http://jalopnik.com/here-s-why-the-v8-audi-s4-is-an-awful-used-car-1676466510
"As it turns out, there's a reason these things have gotten so cheap. And given that this is a Volkswagen Group product, the reason is exactly what you'd expect: the engine has the propensity to blow up at any random moment, requiring a repair that costs approximately the same as one of those public art sculptures that always looks like a huge piece of discarded construction equipment, but actually symbolizes something like the struggle of the Asiatic Snapping Turtle against the tyrannical oppression of airplane noise.

Here's the background: the previous Audi S4, which came out in 1999, used a timing belt rather than a timing chain. This annoyed the hell out of everyone, because the belt had to be changed every few years, and the only way you can do this job, or any job in a 1990s Audi, is you have to remove the front end, and the engine, and all the glass, and then you have to do a little jig on the service drive that involves a socket wrench and some lederhosen. For this, you may bill 31 hours.

So what Audi did on the V8-powered S4 model, which came out in 2004, was obvious: they ditched the stupid belt for a chain, like most other automakers. And since the chain was now designed to last the life of the car, Audi decided to stick it waaaay in the back of the engine, up against the firewall. Apparently the theory was that the chain would be so robust, and strong, and dependable, that it would never have to be serviced. You can probably guess what happened next.

Yes, that's right: it had to be serviced.

You see, as it turns out, the chain itself didn't have any problems with dependability. But Audi, being Audi, decided to use substandard materials for the chain tensioners, and the cam adjusters, which are two related – and highly important – components that keep the chain turning around and around and around every time you drive the car. The result is that these parts eventually fail, requiring the replacement of virtually everything you see in this amazing image of an Audi S4 engine worryingly sitting outside an Audi S4:

qzluvlolghztvktp1ljl.jpg


Apparently, what happens is this: you're cruising along one day in your 2004-2009 S4, listening to electronic dance music, thinking about how cool it would be to stance a Rolls-Royce Phantom. And all of a sudden, you hear a little rattle coming from the engine. This is the sound of your timing belt wobbling around like a toddler in a McDonald's ball pit.

Now, I know what you're thinking: this doesn't seem so bad! Hoist the engine out of the car, replace a few tensioners, and a few adjusters, and maybe a timing chain or two. And then you're good for another eight years!

Well, here's the thing: there's no such thing as "not so bad" in the world of used Audi repairs. According to this excellent summary of the problem over on the Audi forums, an Audi dealer charges around eight grand to fix this issue. You want to do it yourself? No problem. The parts alone are three grand, and then you have to consider the hours you'll spend under the car, covered in grease, wondering why the hell Audi designed this vehicle so that it could only be fixed by a creature the size of a cicada. All for a car that's only worth about fifteen grand, according to average pricing on AutoTrader.com.
Now, since this column will undoubtedly hit the Audi forums – a group of folks who haven't exactly been my biggest fans, ever since I once said that "a vehicle made entirely by chimpanzees using random car parts" would be more reliable than an Allroad – I should issue a disclaimer. This issue might not affect all V8 S4s. Some people have made it to 150,000 miles without issue. Some people have suffered the failure at 75,000 miles. But in the world of $8,000 automotive repairs, "might not" is hardly a comfort – especially since the problem could present itself at any time, without warning. Just a little rattle, coming from the engine. And that's when you know you're not buying name brand toothpaste for the rest of the year."

http://jalopnik.com/this-is-what-happens-when-you-dont-drive-your-v10-audi-1691976274
"Ask any old mechanic and they'll tell you about the 'Italian tune up,' which involves driving a car really hard as a means of maintenance. Not only is this actually true (not just a line mechanics feed dumb millionaires so they can thrash their Lamborghinis), it applies to a number of non-Italian cars. Just head over to r/JustRolledIntoTheShop and take a look at the carbon buildup on this V10-powered 2007 Audi S6.

Check out the original thread detailing the full damage right here on Reddit, posted by the brilliantly-named user HowdyAudi. The comments there have a lot of great discussions on what's going on specifically with this engine on a technical level. I'll give you the abridged version.

Here's the damage.

wrmqo2xulocerlddbpas.jpg

mbgy0xhqzt0cohsogypc.jpg

Here's the view into the engine itself.
xqohojvinilgz7dkgf6u.jpg


And here's even a look at the back of a valve.
l6clmdfiy9s4iejfpoq4.jpg


HowdyAudi said that surprisingly, the engine didn't run that rough, but the check engine light was on, and that carbon buildup in other high-strung Audis (particularly the V8 RS4) can hang open the valves enough to cause misfires.

Why has this happened? Well, there are a few reasons. Initially, people in the thread started asking about exhaust gas recirculation, where some of the exhaust is piped back into the cylinder to keep combustion temperatures low and thus preventing too much nitrogen oxide from forming. It's an emissions compliance trick, but HowdyAudi explains EGR is not the culprit here.

'This is an 07 Audi S6. So no EGR. They use a secondary air. Air pump and valves into the exhaust ports. This buildup is due, in my opinion, to excessive oil vapor and no fuel wash on the back of the valves.'

This is a direct injection engine. That means that a normal engine would clean the back of its valves as fuel runs down into the cylinder. Direct injection shoots fuel right into the cylinder and skips the valves. It's efficient, but you miss out on the whole self-cleaning thing.

Another commenter asked why there was excessive oil vapor. Were crankcase pressures getting too high? Was a broken positive crankcase venting valve at fault? HowdyAudi explained once more.

'All of the above. One thing I have found working on Audi's for years is they seem to not be able to figure out breather systems very well. Every model seems to have problems. This one did have a bad crankcase breather valve/oil separator that was replaced a while back. Plus this has almost 150000 miles on it. There was nearly 1/4 quart of oil in the intake manifold.'

It was at this point that people started asking what could be done to prevent this kind of buildup. The answer was simple: drive harder.

One person said it looked like the owner probably rarely took the engine anywhere near redline. HowdyAudi elaborated.

'I think that has a lot to do with it. Especially if you just sit on the freeway and idle all the time. Stop and go. These cars really do need a good flogging often.

[...]

Driving them hard will help. Freeway miles. Making sure it gets warmed up. I also recommend a product from BG, called MOA. Put it in the oil every oil change.'

After all this, HowdyAudi had to scrape out the buildup with picks and pipe cleaners and clean with chemicals.

'I used BG ISC cleaner. Really nasty stuff. Scrape out as much carbon as you can with picks and brushes. Then pour the ISC in. Keep scraping and brushing. Let is soak for 15 minutes or so. Clean it out. Wipe out the gunk. Give it another rinse with the ISC, brake clean. I spend about 30 minutes per port. So 5 hours of cleaning with 10 intake ports.'

This is all to say that thrashing your car will not keep you from any kind of problem. As HowdyAudi went on to say, carbon buildup is "the nature of the beast" with these cars, and you'll need to deal with all of this at some point.

But some high-strung engines just need their legs stretched. The only question remains is, as HowdyAudi asked, with 435hp and 396 lb-ft of torque, where exactly can you legally run this car flat out?"
 
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Hi,

If $8000 is to replace the timing chain etc---how much would it cost to rebuild this engine---.

20---25 K
 
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http://jalopnik.com/here-s-why-the-v8-audi-s4-is-an-awful-used-car-1676466510
"As it turns out, there's a reason these things have gotten so cheap. And given that this is a Volkswagen Group product, the reason is exactly what you'd expect: the engine has the propensity to blow up at any random moment, requiring a repair that costs approximately the same as one of those public art sculptures that always looks like a huge piece of discarded construction equipment, but actually symbolizes something like the struggle of the Asiatic Snapping Turtle against the tyrannical oppression of airplane noise.

Here's the background: the previous Audi S4, which came out in 1999, used a timing belt rather than a timing chain. This annoyed the hell out of everyone, because the belt had to be changed every few years, and the only way you can do this job, or any job in a 1990s Audi, is you have to remove the front end, and the engine, and all the glass, and then you have to do a little jig on the service drive that involves a socket wrench and some lederhosen. For this, you may bill 31 hours.

So what Audi did on the V8-powered S4 model, which came out in 2004, was obvious: they ditched the stupid belt for a chain, like most other automakers. And since the chain was now designed to last the life of the car, Audi decided to stick it waaaay in the back of the engine, up against the firewall. Apparently the theory was that the chain would be so robust, and strong, and dependable, that it would never have to be serviced. You can probably guess what happened next.

Yes, that's right: it had to be serviced.

You see, as it turns out, the chain itself didn't have any problems with dependability. But Audi, being Audi, decided to use substandard materials for the chain tensioners, and the cam adjusters, which are two related – and highly important – components that keep the chain turning around and around and around every time you drive the car. The result is that these parts eventually fail, requiring the replacement of virtually everything you see in this amazing image of an Audi S4 engine worryingly sitting outside an Audi S4:

View attachment 363367

Apparently, what happens is this: you're cruising along one day in your 2004-2009 S4, listening to electronic dance music, thinking about how cool it would be to stance a Rolls-Royce Phantom. And all of a sudden, you hear a little rattle coming from the engine. This is the sound of your timing belt wobbling around like a toddler in a McDonald's ball pit.

Now, I know what you're thinking: this doesn't seem so bad! Hoist the engine out of the car, replace a few tensioners, and a few adjusters, and maybe a timing chain or two. And then you're good for another eight years!

Well, here's the thing: there's no such thing as "not so bad" in the world of used Audi repairs. According to this excellent summary of the problem over on the Audi forums, an Audi dealer charges around eight grand to fix this issue. You want to do it yourself? No problem. The parts alone are three grand, and then you have to consider the hours you'll spend under the car, covered in grease, wondering why the hell Audi designed this vehicle so that it could only be fixed by a creature the size of a cicada. All for a car that's only worth about fifteen grand, according to average pricing on AutoTrader.com.
Now, since this column will undoubtedly hit the Audi forums – a group of folks who haven't exactly been my biggest fans, ever since I once said that "a vehicle made entirely by chimpanzees using random car parts" would be more reliable than an Allroad – I should issue a disclaimer. This issue might not affect all V8 S4s. Some people have made it to 150,000 miles without issue. Some people have suffered the failure at 75,000 miles. But in the world of $8,000 automotive repairs, "might not" is hardly a comfort – especially since the problem could present itself at any time, without warning. Just a little rattle, coming from the engine. And that's when you know you're not buying name brand toothpaste for the rest of the year."

http://jalopnik.com/this-is-what-happens-when-you-dont-drive-your-v10-audi-1691976274
"Ask any old mechanic and they'll tell you about the 'Italian tune up,' which involves driving a car really hard as a means of maintenance. Not only is this actually true (not just a line mechanics feed dumb millionaires so they can thrash their Lamborghinis), it applies to a number of non-Italian cars. Just head over to r/JustRolledIntoTheShop and take a look at the carbon buildup on this V10-powered 2007 Audi S6.

Check out the original thread detailing the full damage right here on Reddit, posted by the brilliantly-named user HowdyAudi. The comments there have a lot of great discussions on what's going on specifically with this engine on a technical level. I'll give you the abridged version.

Here's the damage.

View attachment 363368
View attachment 363369
Here's the view into the engine itself.
View attachment 363370

And here's even a look at the back of a valve.
View attachment 363371

HowdyAudi said that surprisingly, the engine didn't run that rough, but the check engine light was on, and that carbon buildup in other high-strung Audis (particularly the V8 RS4) can hang open the valves enough to cause misfires.

Why has this happened? Well, there are a few reasons. Initially, people in the thread started asking about exhaust gas recirculation, where some of the exhaust is piped back into the cylinder to keep combustion temperatures low and thus preventing too much nitrogen oxide from forming. It's an emissions compliance trick, but HowdyAudi explains EGR is not the culprit here.

'This is an 07 Audi S6. So no EGR. They use a secondary air. Air pump and valves into the exhaust ports. This buildup is due, in my opinion, to excessive oil vapor and no fuel wash on the back of the valves.'

This is a direct injection engine. That means that a normal engine would clean the back of its valves as fuel runs down into the cylinder. Direct injection shoots fuel right into the cylinder and skips the valves. It's efficient, but you miss out on the whole self-cleaning thing.

Another commenter asked why there was excessive oil vapor. Were crankcase pressures getting too high? Was a broken positive crankcase venting valve at fault? HowdyAudi explained once more.

'All of the above. One thing I have found working on Audi's for years is they seem to not be able to figure out breather systems very well. Every model seems to have problems. This one did have a bad crankcase breather valve/oil separator that was replaced a while back. Plus this has almost 150000 miles on it. There was nearly 1/4 quart of oil in the intake manifold.'

It was at this point that people started asking what could be done to prevent this kind of buildup. The answer was simple: drive harder.

One person said it looked like the owner probably rarely took the engine anywhere near redline. HowdyAudi elaborated.

'I think that has a lot to do with it. Especially if you just sit on the freeway and idle all the time. Stop and go. These cars really do need a good flogging often.

[...]

Driving them hard will help. Freeway miles. Making sure it gets warmed up. I also recommend a product from BG, called MOA. Put it in the oil every oil change.'

After all this, HowdyAudi had to scrape out the buildup with picks and pipe cleaners and clean with chemicals.

'I used BG ISC cleaner. Really nasty stuff. Scrape out as much carbon as you can with picks and brushes. Then pour the ISC in. Keep scraping and brushing. Let is soak for 15 minutes or so. Clean it out. Wipe out the gunk. Give it another rinse with the ISC, brake clean. I spend about 30 minutes per port. So 5 hours of cleaning with 10 intake ports.'

This is all to say that thrashing your car will not keep you from any kind of problem. As HowdyAudi went on to say, carbon buildup is "the nature of the beast" with these cars, and you'll need to deal with all of this at some point.

But some high-strung engines just need their legs stretched. The only question remains is, as HowdyAudi asked, with 435hp and 396 lb-ft of torque, where exactly can you legally run this car flat out?"
For some reaso Audi never attract me....Only attract when used in movie...Robert De Niro..The Ronin

Audi S8
 
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