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Wide-eyed in Karachi

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Observations of Pakistan by an Indian reporter

Wide-eyed in Karachi

Pakistan's premier city is one that provokes many observations - not least about the similarities with India across the border

Sidharth Monga

June 23
Realise people who draw similarities between Karachi and Bombay generalise too much. The roads here are too wide, the houses are too big, the restaurants are too posh.

It's easier to strike up conversations here: people love to talk - a trait found abundantly in North Indians too. Agree with the first person one meets in Karachi: "We [Indians and Pakistanis] have become too intolerant." And to a lesser extent, agree with "Cricket is not the same anymore. Doesn't excite me anymore."

Rush straight to the National Stadium. Attend Mahendra Singh Dhoni's pre-tournament press-conference. Dhoni is asked if being "the richest cricketer in India" puts extra pressure on him. "It does, on the chartered accountant," he says. Nothing like a joke after a taxing journey that involves visa trouble, a lost passport, and hard-to-come-by tickets. "Taxing" was not an intentional pun.

June 24
Mirza Ghalib, the famous Urdu and Persian poet from the 19th century, was a mango fiend. Once, pranksters offered him rotten mangoes, which he ate. People laughed. "Inhe to gadhe bhi nahi khaate. [Even donkeys wouldn't eat these.]"

"Gadhe hi hain jo aam nahi khate, [Those who don't' eat mangoes are idiots]" Ghalib replied. "Gadha" also means idiot. Indeed, only idiots will come to Pakistan and not eat mangoes. One of the few good things about touring Pakistan in deadly heat is that it is the mango season. Realise the mangoes here can be better than those in India - but only just.

June 25
Realise, after long observation, that Pakistanis prefer drinking water from glasses to bottles. A pointless observation. Also observe, on the way to the National Stadium, Umar Gul on billboards. "I am Umar Gul. I am part of HBL," Gul, in jacket and tie, seems to be saying. Ditto Younis Khan.

Also, on a day of observations, observe how every multinational product's label has its name written in Urdu too. Kinley, Pepsi, Nestle, et al.

June 26
Trucks in the Indian Punjab have superbly garish art and ingenious messages, but they are not a patch on the trucks, coaches, and auto-rickshaws found in Karachi. Feel the need to know Urdu to read Pakistani counterparts of the wisecracks on Indian trucks.

There are many other similarities between the Punjabs. The languages are pretty similar, as is the liberal use of swear words. Eating habits are not too different, either. The stock attire here, the shalwar kameez is just a variation of the kurta pajama on the eastern side of the border. And we are not even in Lahore, the heart of the Pakistani Punjab.

Speaking of similarities between the nations, there is more in common than cricket, Bollywood, music and history: Rose Beauty Parlour. In India it is hard to find a town worth its salt that doesn't boast a Rose Beauty Parlour. A Rose by another name wouldn't be half as great.

June 27
Finally a break. Watch Castrol announce that Kamran Akmal is the best Asian wicketkeeper/fielder in 2007. What a laugh. Even the Pakistani journalists are embarrassed. Wonder if Dhoni would have had his usual funny remark if he were asked about missing out on that particular award. Wonder if Akmal would be sledged by Kumar Sangakkara had Akmal been playing in the Asia Cup: "There comes the best keeper, eh. Expectations."



Trucks in the Indian Punjab have superbly garish art and ingenious messages, but they are not a patch on the trucks, coaches, and auto-rickshaws found in Karachi



Have dinner at 2am in a restaurant. It's impossible to find restaurants open so late in most parts of India. Hear that Lahore stays open till even later. Shame no significant matches are being played in Lahore

Cricinfo - Wide-eyed in Karachi

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Ha! We always said the Mangoes in Pakistan were better!:P ...along with everything else... :D:P
 
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Karachi is the best forget the rest! there is nothing in the world like Karachi! mashallah shine Karachi shine!
 
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I'm sure Karachi is a wonderful city, but its not a patch on Bombay :P

The reporter is just being kind for the higher cause of 'building bridges'. :D
 
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I'm sure Karachi is a wonderful city, but its not a patch on Bombay :P

Quite right - living in Karachi is still affordable for many people. :D

But you guys can keep that honor. We'll keep the rest. :P

That said, I am sure the bar and club scene in Bombay, or any large Indian city, is beyond comparison with Pakistan - consumption of alcohol being illegal for Muslims and whatnot.
 
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Quite right - living in Karachi is still affordable for many people. :D

But you guys can keep that honor. We'll keep the rest. :P

That said, I am sure the bar and club scene in Bombay, or any large Indian city, is beyond comparison with Pakistan - consumption of alcohol being illegal for Muslims and whatnot.

The art scene is better too. Lots of theaters, plays, and exhibitions to waste your time.

I guess the less fortunate Karachiites make up by decorating their trucks rather zealously. :D
 
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The art scene is better too. Lots of theaters, plays, and exhibitions to waste your time.

Sadly, you are correct about that.

Zia's reign, and the subsequent wave of Islamization has had very negative repercussions for the art and culture scene.

During Musharraf's era we did have a lot more support for efforts in teh arts, but it will be awhile before we can make it a flourishing scene again.

From what I hear, a lot of the theater we do have is of the garish and vulgar comedic type.
 
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Sadly, you are correct about that.

Zia's reign, and the subsequent wave of Islamization has had very negative repercussions for the art and culture scene.

During Musharraf's era we did have a lot more support for efforts in teh arts, but it will be awhile before we can make it a flourishing scene again.

From what I hear, a lot of the theater we do have is of the garish and vulgar comedic type.

There seems to be some improvement:

6b013493d7a115ecab0ebc252eae52df.jpg
 
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