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Sara Hasan
By Sara Hasan
When the British left India in 1947, little did they know that those they had once ruled would follow them home and exact vengeance. As fate would have it, the South Asians served revenge as piping hot savoury and sweet dishes, without which the capital of the former British Empire, the city of London itself, would remain a bland place of shepherd’s pie and roast beef.
Pakistanis represent the second largest sub-group of British Asians; they range from students to working class expatriates to the second generation of pre-settled British Pakistanis. Needless to say, culture for Pakistanis is majorly influenced by our grand appetite, spice appeal and culinary delights, and we tend to bring these with us wherever we go.
But it would be unfair to state that Pakistani cuisine is available at only a given zone or street in London. Our generously-sprinkled spices spread their aroma across the city from the southern area of Tooting to the western parts of Hounslow; from the eastern zones of White Chapel and Green Street to the central hub at Piccadilly Circus.
“Being a food lover, I have more than one personal favourite. There is nothing like cherishing the weekend with a brunch of chanay and puriyan at Illford,” says Umair Atta, a Pakistani expat. “Then of course when it comes to having a desi dinner, Lamb Karahi and Charsi Karahi, served with piping hot naan and mango lassi, top the list at Hounslow”.
Most Pakistani restaurants in London are very particular about preserving their Pakistani identity, as opposed to being just another curry server from the subcontinent. Most places mention specifically that they serve “authentic Pakistani cuisine.” Another key element that Pakistani restaurants tend to highlight is the fact that they offer halal food. Most restaurants tend to mention this fact in big, bold fonts so as to avoid any misconceptions.
“I discovered my strong association with Pakistani food and my potential to crave for hard core desi food, jalebis and mithai only after I arrived in this part of the world,” says Sidra, a Pakistani student studying in London. “Eating Pakistani food satiates me like nothing else and makes me feel close to home. I find myself relating the taste of food in restaurants here to my mother’s home-cooked food, and whichever one is the optimal match for me, finds me as regular customer.”
The proudest moment for a Pakistani though is seeing people from western backgrounds queue up outside Pakistani restaurants, especially at Khana Khazana, Tayyabs, Lahori Kebab and Salt & Pepper. Truth be told, when you look at the clientele of these eateries for the first time, it is hard to digest their popularity as we are not too used to being in demand for anything positive on an international level.
But compete we do and proudly so.
While London’s pubs may boast of making countless people woozy and insensible, Pakistani mango lassi coupled with a heavy helping of nihari, haleem or payay, can also leave you in a state where making your way home after a meal takes quite an effort.
“Haleem and nihari served in Hendon reminds me of our Burns Road nihari. What more could one ask for than to cherish desi taste in foreign lands?” says Mahvesh Perwaiz, who works in the financial hub of London.
When winters come along, the desire for warm comfort food and Pakistani barbeque top the list. Coupled with a range of mint, chilli and mango chutney, freshly-grilled barbeque served with oven-fresh naan or parathas are personal favourites of many London-based Pakistanis.
“There is nothing like being served a freshly-grilled Pakistani barbeque sizzler while sitting outside a desi restaurant, with complimentary shawls to enjoy the chilly weather,” says another Britisher of Pakistani origin, Ramisa.
“The lamb chops served at Lahore Kebab House in Aldgate East are to die for. I normally don’t eat red meat in London, but these lamb chops are char-grilled to perfection! These tender treats come in generous helpings at a great price, and remind me of our family barbeques we had as kids on Bakr Eid,” says Fatima.
“There are some great food places with authentic Pakistani food in London, but my favourites are not those fancy places everybody raves about; it is those small food shops that will take you right back to the streets of Karachi and Lahore,” says Dania Siddique, who ventured to London on work placement.
Just in case one feels too lazy to step out for Pakistani food, you can very easily hibernate in your centrally-heated apartment and opt for home delivery as well.
But the most Pakistani feeling tends to come at the restaurants themselves, where hospitality, a heavy helping of desi charm, and a natural association with one’s language and identity seems to be overwhelming.
Most owners and waiters seek immense pleasure in identifying with you if your area of origin is the same as theirs. If not, you are likely to still be greeted with, “Never mind, you are still our Pakistani bhai or behen.”
Now if we could only re-export that feeling of fraternity back to Pakistan.
Conquest by cuisine – a taste of Pakistan
From Chicken Tikka Masala in England, to Pakistani BBQ in Dubai, local food has found its place abroad.Sara Hasan
|
By Sara Hasan
When the British left India in 1947, little did they know that those they had once ruled would follow them home and exact vengeance. As fate would have it, the South Asians served revenge as piping hot savoury and sweet dishes, without which the capital of the former British Empire, the city of London itself, would remain a bland place of shepherd’s pie and roast beef.
Pakistanis represent the second largest sub-group of British Asians; they range from students to working class expatriates to the second generation of pre-settled British Pakistanis. Needless to say, culture for Pakistanis is majorly influenced by our grand appetite, spice appeal and culinary delights, and we tend to bring these with us wherever we go.
|
“Being a food lover, I have more than one personal favourite. There is nothing like cherishing the weekend with a brunch of chanay and puriyan at Illford,” says Umair Atta, a Pakistani expat. “Then of course when it comes to having a desi dinner, Lamb Karahi and Charsi Karahi, served with piping hot naan and mango lassi, top the list at Hounslow”.
Most Pakistani restaurants in London are very particular about preserving their Pakistani identity, as opposed to being just another curry server from the subcontinent. Most places mention specifically that they serve “authentic Pakistani cuisine.” Another key element that Pakistani restaurants tend to highlight is the fact that they offer halal food. Most restaurants tend to mention this fact in big, bold fonts so as to avoid any misconceptions.
“I discovered my strong association with Pakistani food and my potential to crave for hard core desi food, jalebis and mithai only after I arrived in this part of the world,” says Sidra, a Pakistani student studying in London. “Eating Pakistani food satiates me like nothing else and makes me feel close to home. I find myself relating the taste of food in restaurants here to my mother’s home-cooked food, and whichever one is the optimal match for me, finds me as regular customer.”
The proudest moment for a Pakistani though is seeing people from western backgrounds queue up outside Pakistani restaurants, especially at Khana Khazana, Tayyabs, Lahori Kebab and Salt & Pepper. Truth be told, when you look at the clientele of these eateries for the first time, it is hard to digest their popularity as we are not too used to being in demand for anything positive on an international level.
But compete we do and proudly so.
While London’s pubs may boast of making countless people woozy and insensible, Pakistani mango lassi coupled with a heavy helping of nihari, haleem or payay, can also leave you in a state where making your way home after a meal takes quite an effort.
|
“Haleem and nihari served in Hendon reminds me of our Burns Road nihari. What more could one ask for than to cherish desi taste in foreign lands?” says Mahvesh Perwaiz, who works in the financial hub of London.
When winters come along, the desire for warm comfort food and Pakistani barbeque top the list. Coupled with a range of mint, chilli and mango chutney, freshly-grilled barbeque served with oven-fresh naan or parathas are personal favourites of many London-based Pakistanis.
“There is nothing like being served a freshly-grilled Pakistani barbeque sizzler while sitting outside a desi restaurant, with complimentary shawls to enjoy the chilly weather,” says another Britisher of Pakistani origin, Ramisa.
“The lamb chops served at Lahore Kebab House in Aldgate East are to die for. I normally don’t eat red meat in London, but these lamb chops are char-grilled to perfection! These tender treats come in generous helpings at a great price, and remind me of our family barbeques we had as kids on Bakr Eid,” says Fatima.
“There are some great food places with authentic Pakistani food in London, but my favourites are not those fancy places everybody raves about; it is those small food shops that will take you right back to the streets of Karachi and Lahore,” says Dania Siddique, who ventured to London on work placement.
Just in case one feels too lazy to step out for Pakistani food, you can very easily hibernate in your centrally-heated apartment and opt for home delivery as well.
But the most Pakistani feeling tends to come at the restaurants themselves, where hospitality, a heavy helping of desi charm, and a natural association with one’s language and identity seems to be overwhelming.
Most owners and waiters seek immense pleasure in identifying with you if your area of origin is the same as theirs. If not, you are likely to still be greeted with, “Never mind, you are still our Pakistani bhai or behen.”
Now if we could only re-export that feeling of fraternity back to Pakistan.
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