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My magical holiday in Hunza will inspire you to hit the road
SAHAR HABIB
Towards the end of summer, my family headed off to Hunza for a much needed vacation. We had been planning the trip for a while and there was one aspect of the trip that caused some indecision.
One option was to go by road, eliminating the uncertainty of flight delays and cancellations. The second option was to fly to Gilgit, and then make the two-hour drive on to Hunza.
In the end, we decided on the scenic route. Though the drive is a long one (we broke the drive by stopping in Naran for a night), it’s worth every second, as the views at every turn are stunning. I have been to Skardu a few times, but always by air.
It’s a completely different experience when you drive right through the mountains along the Karakoram Highway. This region is ridiculously beautiful and the pictures really don't do it justice. Just know that if it looks impressive in a picture, it's ten times more picturesque in real life.
We stayed at the Hunza Serena Inn, which has beautiful views of the surrounding valley and mountains everywhere you look, and a gorgeous view of Baltit Fort in the distance. At night, there is none of the noise and pollution of the big city, the clear skies are full of stars and music carries over from nearby villages.
Here are some of the things you should definitely check out if you’re in Hunza:
Baltit Fort
This fort is about 700 years old and is influenced by Tibetan architecture, bearing some similarity to the Potala Palace in Lhasa. Over the years, various Hunza-Nagar rulers have made additions and changes to the original structure. In 1945, the Mir of Hunza abandoned the fort and moved into a new residence closeby. More than forty years of neglect left the fort in considerable disrepair and a four-year restoration programme, completed in 1996, was supported by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture’s Historic Cities Programme.
Tickets cost Rs250 and buy you a 45-minute guided tour, complete with a narration of the fascinating history of the fort and how its inhabitants used to live over the years.
Getting to the fort is about a 20-minute steep uphill walk (from Hunza Serena Inn) along a cobblestone path, so comfy shoes are essential. The magnificent view of the the Hunza valley once your reach the top is well worth the exertion.
Altit Fort
Restoration of the Altit Fort began in 2004 and was completed six years later. The fort is now open to the public and the grounds include the KhaBasi Cafe and the Leif Larsen Music Center.
Tickets cost Rs300 and here too you get a guided tour of the fort, which is a bit smaller than Baltit but just as fascinating and with equally remarkable views all around.
Kha Basi Cafe
This charming and unique cafe, run solely by women, has a small indoor dining space, but the best spot for a cup of tea is the veranda overlooking the adjacent valley. Stop by after touring the Altit Fort to sample traditional Hunza cuisine, like the Chap Chrro (flatbread with a meat filling), Brustz Shapik (flatbread filled with local cheese, seasoned with herbs and apricot oil), and Diram Phitti (a wholesome dessert made with wheat and apricot oil).
SAHAR HABIB
Towards the end of summer, my family headed off to Hunza for a much needed vacation. We had been planning the trip for a while and there was one aspect of the trip that caused some indecision.
One option was to go by road, eliminating the uncertainty of flight delays and cancellations. The second option was to fly to Gilgit, and then make the two-hour drive on to Hunza.
In the end, we decided on the scenic route. Though the drive is a long one (we broke the drive by stopping in Naran for a night), it’s worth every second, as the views at every turn are stunning. I have been to Skardu a few times, but always by air.
It’s a completely different experience when you drive right through the mountains along the Karakoram Highway. This region is ridiculously beautiful and the pictures really don't do it justice. Just know that if it looks impressive in a picture, it's ten times more picturesque in real life.
We stayed at the Hunza Serena Inn, which has beautiful views of the surrounding valley and mountains everywhere you look, and a gorgeous view of Baltit Fort in the distance. At night, there is none of the noise and pollution of the big city, the clear skies are full of stars and music carries over from nearby villages.
Here are some of the things you should definitely check out if you’re in Hunza:
Baltit Fort
This fort is about 700 years old and is influenced by Tibetan architecture, bearing some similarity to the Potala Palace in Lhasa. Over the years, various Hunza-Nagar rulers have made additions and changes to the original structure. In 1945, the Mir of Hunza abandoned the fort and moved into a new residence closeby. More than forty years of neglect left the fort in considerable disrepair and a four-year restoration programme, completed in 1996, was supported by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture’s Historic Cities Programme.
Tickets cost Rs250 and buy you a 45-minute guided tour, complete with a narration of the fascinating history of the fort and how its inhabitants used to live over the years.
Getting to the fort is about a 20-minute steep uphill walk (from Hunza Serena Inn) along a cobblestone path, so comfy shoes are essential. The magnificent view of the the Hunza valley once your reach the top is well worth the exertion.
Altit Fort
Restoration of the Altit Fort began in 2004 and was completed six years later. The fort is now open to the public and the grounds include the KhaBasi Cafe and the Leif Larsen Music Center.
Tickets cost Rs300 and here too you get a guided tour of the fort, which is a bit smaller than Baltit but just as fascinating and with equally remarkable views all around.
Kha Basi Cafe
This charming and unique cafe, run solely by women, has a small indoor dining space, but the best spot for a cup of tea is the veranda overlooking the adjacent valley. Stop by after touring the Altit Fort to sample traditional Hunza cuisine, like the Chap Chrro (flatbread with a meat filling), Brustz Shapik (flatbread filled with local cheese, seasoned with herbs and apricot oil), and Diram Phitti (a wholesome dessert made with wheat and apricot oil).
