Karachi's forgotten Jewish community

[dexter]

Karachi, Pakistan's largest city and financial hub, was once home to a thriving Jewish community. Most left the city after an increase in anti-semitism in Pakistan following the 1967 Six Day War. But the community left their cultural mark on the city - and some say a handful still live here in secret - watching over their architecture and graveyards. STORYLINE: Around 2,500 strong at the beginning of the twentieth century, Karachi's Jewish community has all but disappeared. They collectively fend off attacks from land-grabbers and local gangsters.

Mehrunnisa Bibi, Caretaker, Gulshan Graveyard: "The last they came was six months ago, put flowers on graves and left; they do live here in the neighbourhood of Gulshan, but they don't make themselves apparent. They told me not to tell anyone who they are, they go by the surname of Koreshi, they stay very quiet about their identity."

Mumtaz Ali, Hashoo, Curator, Karachi Museum : "They weren't that rich or influential, what or how they were thinking about the future of the Jewish community wasn't really known, unlike the Christians, who were very well organised at that point, their commission, and their churches, the Christians had a direct link with Italy (Vatican). By comparison, very little was known about Jewish people here, people close to them did think that they were from the desert of Sinai."

Yasmin Lari, Architectural Historian: "It was a very tolerant city, that Muslims of the area were quite willing and happy to commission an architect who was Jewish. That means a lot of trust and faith in the architect, they obviously held him in great esteem, maybe he belonged to that community, maybe he lived there, we don't know where he actually lived, we do know where he worked because we found his (business) letterheads."

 

[AZADPAKISTAN2009]

Only way love is suicidal as they say

When some preach hug and kiss from one side while other holding rifles and bulldozing homes

 

[shahbaz baig]

I personally know some of Jewish families those still living in Karachi but they never highlight their identity.

 

[ghazi52]

A forgotten Son of Karachi ;

Moses Somake ... A Jewish Architect ...(1875-1947)

Most of the historic buildings like Mules Mansion in Kemari, BVS Parsi High School and the Karachi Goan Association Hall in Saddar, Khaliqdina Hall on Bunder Road, Jaffer Faddoo Dispensary in Kharadar, Edward House on Victoria road and the famous Flagstaff House were all designed by Moses Somake

He was born on June 6, 1875 in Lahore. His parents were of Jewish extraction. He passed away on April 6, 1947 in London.

There’s not enough source material on Moses Somake; only a couple of references tell us that he was born on June 6, 1875 in Lahore. His parents were of Jewish extraction. He passed away on April 6, 1947 in London, four months prior to partition of the subcontinent. No one knows where he learnt his art, what’s known is that he was a member of the Society of Architects in the first decade of the 20th century. Therefore, what else could he have been other than an architect?

Mules Mansion:
Though most of the structures that Somake designed were on or near Victoria Road (Abdullah Haroon Road), the first building that this writer fell head over heals in love with was Mules Mansion in Keamari. The structure has human attributes. It talks to you. It has watery eyes. It has aged, but refuses to feel emaciated.

Built in the Anglo-Oriental style, Mules Mansion (named after Charles Mules, commissioner in Sindh) has renaissance elements too. As one expert suggests, its columns, its keystone, and its grooving are a sight to behold. Pollution and the effects of the fire that it caught a few years back have obscured its true splendor from students of art and architecture.

Karachi Goan Association Hall:
The Karachi Goan Association Hall was perhaps the first work of construction that catapulted Moses Somake to fame and earned him more projects. Made in the English Renaissance style, it has a pediment, lovely pilasters, hipped roofs and dormers, and semicircular window openings. Located across the Karachi Grammar School, the Karachi Goan Association Hall is a lovely example of stonemasonry.

Flagstaff House: If the KGA hall has semicircular window openings, then Flagstaff House (Quaid-i-Azam House) has semicircular balconies that stand out. The building is not heavily embellished, but its carved pilasters and arched openings look special. It’s understandable, because the structure was originally meant to be a residence, and it was quite later that it assumed official status.


BVS Parsi School:
BVS Parsi School is no less exceptional. It too has nicely carved features in its pilasters and a pediment that enhances the entrance’s effect. The building is imposing without compromising on elegance, an aspect that Somake took extra care about.


Edward House:
The one building that Moses Somake has used strong detailing and rusticated masonry on is Edward House. It is a visual treat to look at and be in. The structure has a ‘feel’ that no other Somake creation can boast of. The moment you enter Edward House by going up a wooden staircase into the fairly airy rooms, you can’t help appreciating the artistry that’s gone into its making.

Architect and conservationist Yasmeen Lari says, “Moses Somake’s expression was robust, showing the strength of material he used along with a combination of some interesting elements. The balconies of Flagstaff House, Edward House and Victorian Mansion (we’ve discovered that Victoria Mansion next to Edward House too was designed by him) have been treated really well. Edward House and Victoria Mansion are different buildings, yet go well together. “The most wonderful aspect of discussing Somake is that at the time he was at work, Karachi was a tolerant city. Imagine the Portuguese Christian community asking a Jew to make a club for them. My team and I have recently discovered that even the Muslim community had commissioned Somake to design a mosque for them. We have the maps for it. It’s a three-storey early 20th century mosque.”

“The difference between James Strachan and Moses Somake was that the former was an engineer designer. After the opening of the Suez Canal, books started coming into the subcontinent which was why people like Strachan were able to read them and come up with designs. On the other hand Somake was a trained architect, as we have recently come to know, and had more consistency in his expression. Strachan was moved by whatever he saw and was successful in making diverse buildings; Somake was on his own and was better trained.”

Dr Akhtar Hameed Khan was a known social worker. Few knew that he dabbled in Urdu poetry as well. The homage to Moses Somake, given the surrealistic nightmare that Karachi has become, can be best summed up by quoting one of Dr Khan’s couplets:

Imarat haey kuhna dekhta hoon To tees uth’ti hai pehlu-i-jigar mein

mohammad.salman@dawn.com