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Cultural identity: G-B celebrates ‘Cap Day’ today

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Cultural identity: G-B celebrates ‘Cap Day’ today
By Shabbir Mir
Published: October 1, 2016
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Cultural caps at display at shop in Gilgit-Baltistan. PHOTO: EXPRESS

GILGIT: People across Gilgit-Baltistan will don their traditional headgear of a white woolen cap with a feather in it to mark the first ever ‘Cap Day’ today (Saturday).

The region’s government had in April this year announced to observe the event annually in light of the rising number of tourists visiting the valley.

“We have decided to introduce our culture to the people living outside G-B and to foreign visitors,” Chief Minister Hafeezur Rehman said while announcing the annual day. “This is our identity and all government officials will put on the traditional cap on this day every year,” Rehman told The Express Tribune.

He added that special events will be held in all 10 districts of G-B to highlight the region’s rich culture. The region and the nascent tourism industry suffered a fatal blow after gunmen attacked the Nanga Parbat base camp in 2013, killing 10 foreigners.

Over 10,000 people associated with the tourism industry in G-B lost their jobs in the aftermath of the attack.

But with tourists returning in increasing numbers recently, with over 500,000 visiting G-B last year and an even greater number this year, the government decided to hold a ‘Cap Day’ day as an attraction and as a celebration of local culture.

Initially, the day was set to be marked on September 1 to coincide with autumn, but the date was later changed. The confusion saw many observed the day unofficially.

Weaves of history

The traditional Gilgiti cap is called “Shanti-Khoi” in the local language.

The soft, round and flat-topped cap is usually white in colour and is made from the finest wool. They are usually decorated with either a tuft of feathers or a flower.

Its history can be traced back to the days when the region was still divided among small, but fiercely independent princely states which existed before 1947. The cap itself is believed to have become a mainstay of the region during the 17th and 18th centuries.

Shanti-Khoi was conceptualised to escape the freezing winds of a region that sees the temperature drop to 25 degree centigrade below freezing point during winters.

Considered the official headgear of G-B, no traditional formal dress in this mountain-locked region is considered complete without the cap.

Such is its importance that was incorporated into the official uniforms of the Gilgit scouts during pre-partition days, a force commended by Major William Brown and it is still part of the uniform of Northern Light Infantry Regiment (NLI) today.

However, the traditional cap varies slightly from the ones worn in the rest of the region with locals identifying at least six different types of caps used in G-B.

“The cap of every valley is slightly different from others in shape and colour,” said Imitaz Wali, a resident of Gilgit.

Wali, said that the cap worn in Baltistan differs in style and materials from the cap in Diamer and Ghizer. “By style I mean way the cap is worn.”

However, of late the tradition of wearing the cap among the younger generation has decreased and officials believe that the cap day would help revive the tradition.

Published in The Express Tribune, October 1st, 2016.

@unleashed ,@Arsalan ,@Slav Defence ,@Levina ,@anant_s ,@Taygibay ,@Horus ,@waz ,@Irfan Baloch ,@PARIKRAMA ,@Moonlight ,@The Eagle ,@WAJsal , @ghazi52
@Moonlight ,@Arsalan ,@unleashed ,@Kambojaric ,@krash
 
Nice, preserving local culture is always good to hear about in this fast globalising world. Btw can you show us examples of the different kinds of hats worn in the different valleys?
 
What is that white feather attached on front top of cap called?


View attachment 339641

It is called a ghamburi and is worn on special occasions. the black part is the made from feather of peacock and the white part is made from the feather of a special bread of swan when traviling during migration In older times it was worn by important people for special occasions. but nowadays anyone can wear it. it is wore by the NLI as part of their unifrom and local village marching bands, they are also worn by sword dancers and during any weddings and festival.

Nice, preserving local culture is always good to hear about in this fast globalising world. Btw can you show us examples of the different kinds of hats worn in the different valleys?

well I will try to find any pictures of them..

My Cap, My Identity: Men’s caps from Gilgit-Baltistan


Ziab R Mir


The cultural heritage of Gilgit Baltistan is rich, beautiful and unique. This unique cultural heritage manifests in local traditions, music and local dress. The traditional dress plays a central role in identity of of a person. Traditional clothing of the region is influenced by local culture, geography and weather. Traditional cap of Gilgit Baltistan has played a major role to define the identity of people of Gilgit Baltistan. In Gilgit Baltistan the men wear tradtional cap.The cap has different names in the major local languages. In Shina and Khowar languages the cap is called Khoi ,in brushaski it is called Phartsun or Pharsen and in Wakhi it is called sekeed . The design of cap is slightly different in Baltistan and it is called Nating in Balti.

Tradtional cap is soft round toped woolen hat. It is made by local artisan and is available in various colors. White caps are most popular in the region and considered as a part f formal local dress. In many areas people specially the older generation still wear their traditional cap all the time with pride. They consider it a sign of honor. Whether they are at home in bazar , local celeberations or place of worship they prefer to wear their cap. They will have their different caps for work, cap for formal dressing and for routine day to day business.

Historical linkage. Very little research has been done about the local traditional cap and its origin. Its roots can be traced to thousands of years back. There is a similarity found between the traditional cap of Gilgit Baltistan and ancient Greek Kausia.It was worn in ancient Macedonia during the Hellenistic era.
A 3rd century BC, Terracotta statues from Athens depicting ancient Macedonians wearing the kausia ( Wikipedia).

Making a woolen patti from local wool is long process. Local artisans make it. Once the woolen patti is ready , it is sewn into a cap by local tailors. The cap has two parts. The cylinder part which is about 10 to 12 inches long and the round part which is sewed and fitted on the top of cylinder part. Once the cap is sewn the rim of the cap is rolled upwards towards the top forming a band. The band of Gilgit cap is thin in contrary the chitrali phakol has a thick band.


A Feather in your cap

The most striking feature of the Gilgit cap is the peacock plume and the feather stuck in front or on the side of the cap. It gives a very elegant look to the cap. It is considered a part of formal dress cap and used in groom’s dress. Very little information is available about the history and significance of feather and peacock plume on Gilgit cap. The feather in your cap term is an idiomatic phrase. It is derived from an old custom of certain warrior tribes. In certain areas and tribes anew feather was added to the worrier,s cap for every enemy slain. Similarly same thing was applied for hunters. A hunter was given the a feather of the bird as an appreciation. These customs were practiced indigenous people of modern north America, Mongols, Turcomans, Austrian, Scottish and Hungarians. The feather in our cap is probably linked to those old customs of brave warriors and hunters. Killing the beautiful birds to get peacock plume or feather can not be justifiedin this modern age . Instead some synthetic material should be used to save the precious wild life. The example of alternative synthetic hat for royal guards of Buckingham to save the bears can be followed in this regard.



Flower in your cap

In many parts of Gilgit Baltistan a small fresh flower is stuck in front and side of the the cap. Flower is a symbol of freshness, fragrance and livelihood. When the spring season starts sometimes the farmers and shepherds stuck a pine tree leave to symbolize life .
Elders in Hunza dancing with flower in their cap

Shepherd dancing, with a pine leave in his cap.

Money in your cap

On of the custom of many regions in Gilgit Baltistan is to stuck money into the cap while someone is dancing. This symbolizes the love and respect to the dancer from his friends relatives and fans. The dancer gives this money to the musicians once the dance is finished.

Cap as a storage sack

The men who wear their traditional cap for work sometimes use it as their small storage sack. For shepherds and farmers its is very common to keep small needles , threads, nail, a piece of cigarette a piece of paper and pencil in their cap. It works as a very essential emergency toll box.

Money in cap ( photo GB songs .com)

Balti cap

Balti men wear a beautiful cap. Balti cap is called nating. It is a woolen cap which is semispherical in shape. It is mostly brown, gay or white color. White color balti cap is most eye catching. White is the mnost commonly used color. Presenting a cap to your guest is sign of extreme honor.
Balti Nataing

http://pamirtimes.net/2016/10/01/my-cap-my-identity-mens-caps-from-gilgit-baltistan/
 
My cap, My Pride: The Women’s Caps from Gigit-Baltistan

Gilgit-Baltistan has an incredibly rich and diverse cultural heritage. The colorful cultural heritage of the region is visible in the local customs, local festival , music and traditional dresses. The unique cultural heritage, has attracted people from all over the world.

The colorful caps of women have become one of the most recognizable symbols of the people of Gilgit-Baltistan.

Caps, as symbols, can be full of meanings. They make a statement about our identity and define our place in the comity of cultures. A cap can reveal the origin of a person and his cultural links. The shapes , designs , embroidery and the materials that are used to create the caps make them a piece of art. Knowing about traditional caps can give us knowledge about our historical links and cultural heritage.

The caps of Gilgit Baltistan have their influence from the neighboring China, central Asia, Iran and turkey. In addition slight variations in the caps of different region make them distinct from each other but shows the close linkage between the tradtions of different regions. Every cap has a specific name in major languages of the area. The material used , type of embroidery and design of caps also have some variations in different regions of Gilgit Baltistan. Very little information is available about these variations in different regions.

Traditional Iraghi Cap

It has different names in regional languages. In Shina and Khowar language of upper Ghizer It is called Khoi , in Brushaski ( in Hunza , Nager and Yasin) it is called Phartsun or Pharsen whereas in wahki it is called sekeed . Iraghi cap is the most elegant cap.It is made with beautiful , delicate embroidery. Traditionally silk thread was used to embroider on a thick cotton fabric. The beautiful colors and designs of embroidery are very distinct. Now a days embroidery is made on doosooti and charsooti cloth for making the caps. It takes 3 – 4 months of 2-3 hours daily hard work to make traditional Iraghi cap. It is an integral part of brides dress in the region. The regional difference of the cap can be identified by the height of the cap. In hunza, The head band or Totur (which is called preshu in upper ghizer ) is narrow or shorter, while in other parts of the region specially in Ghizer the preshu is wider and taller. The taller headbaned used to be considered a symbol of grace in Ghizer traditionally.

The piece of pure silver jewelry worn in front of the Iraghi cap is called SILSILA in Gilgit, Hunza and Ghizer and tumar in Baltistan. It seems Silsila has close linkage to central asia. Similar kind of jewelry is used in Tajikistan, Badakhshan and other parts of central Asia. It is made from pure silver by local jewllers. It is specially made for weddings , and hundreds of years old family owened Silsila are inherited from generation to generation. It is a symbol of family pride.



Ghizer Iraghi cap (Left) and Hunza Iraghi cap (right)

Parts of Traditional cap of Gilgit Baltistan



Qalami cap

The embroidery done on this type of cap is Qalami. This type of embroidery is relatively easier than Iraghi. It is done on relatively thick white cotton cloth. The design is traced by a pen or pencil ( Qalam means pen). The embroidery is done by hand on the traced design.



Qalami style embroidery

Plain Cap,

This is a simple version of traditional cap. Traditionally no embroidery is used on plain cap. It is made from colorful cloths. It is easy to make and less time consuming and not costly . Traditionally bright colour valvet or other cloth is used to make the plain cap.



Plain cap

Philtai or phultai cap

This is another form of traditional cap, It has its roots in Tajikistan and wakhaan. It is mainly worn by ladies in wakhi area of Ishkoman vally in Ghizer and also in Gojal. Small strings are passed inside the head band. It is hand made, but there is no embroidery on it. Mostly bright single color velvet is used in this type of cap.





Zardozi cap

I had written in a previous article about need of preservation of zardozi. This kind of traditional embroidery is fading away from Gilgit Baltistan. It is almost impossible to find this kind of art and craft production Gilgit market or handicraft stores in Hunza. Basically Silver or golden thread, called Kalabatu or qalabatu is used in this kind of embroidery. This was used mainly to make traditional caps. This is the form of embroidery which has disappeared . because of lack of economic interest, time consumption, lack of interest of new generation and many other reasons. Hardly a few artisans from our older generation are alive in Ghizar valley who can tell and teach about this form . Urgent action is action is required to preserve this centuries old form of embroidery of our are. I would request NGOs, and people who are interested in preserving our thousands years old history and art to come forward to preserve zardozi.



Nating from Baltistan

In Baltistan woman wear a beautiful spherical cap. It is called Nating in local language. Embroidery or silver colour lower boundery of the cap makes it very beautiful. They wear a piece of jewelry in front of the cap. The piece of jewlary is called tumar. Tumar is usually made of pure silver by native jewelers.

 
Inovation in the traditional cap

KADO has introduce new innovative design in the traditional cap to attract the young generation and non local and international buyers. In this new design velvet is used as base material. Iraghi embroidered headband is attached to the base material.

Perak

Perak is historical ceremonial headdress was worn in region of Baltistan and Ladakh. Perak is made of strap of leather and cloths. It is covered by stones like lapis lazuli, corals and turquoise. This kind of cap has disappeared from the region. I had seen a perak in a local hand craft shop at Hotel Serena in Gilgit.





Dayani Gujjuri or Gujori Cap

Gujjar tribe is a very important tribe which is concentrated in the Indo-Gangetic plains, the Himalayan region, eastern parts of Afghanistan, and parts of Gilgit Baltistan. Darmander in Ghizer is one of the many places where almost 100 percent population consist Gujjar tribe. Gujjars also live in Qumri, Minimerg and other parts of Diamer and nalter in Gigit. Gujjars are mostly herdsman by occupation. Gujjar are very hard working hospitable people. Gujjar headdress or cap is very unique in its design. It is called Dayani.The cap is designed to fully cover the hair. There is extension of cap on backside to covers the hair on the back. The cap has beautiful embroidery and sometimes jewelry and ornaments are attached to it.



Dayani



Role of local Artisans and artists

Thanks to the local artisans and artists who have kept our cultural heritage alive for centuries without any significant economic benefits. The amount of work these people do in this regard is enormous. It is very recently that some of these artists have started earning a negligible amount of money for their work. Majority of the artisans still don’t have access to the handicraft market.

Role of local handicraft shops in promotion of our cultural heritage,

Over time the handicraft shops have played a very major role in the preservation and promotion of our cultural heritage. They introduce and sell our handicrafts to local and international tourists. They play a key role in the preservation of our antique embroidery, traditional dresses and other objects. Gilgit Hunza arts and handicrafts international is one of those many shops. It has the privilege of being located in the luxurious Serena hotel, so it has more exposure to the international tourist. We should appreciate the services of all these handicraft shops that are playing their role in this regard.

Role of NGOs

In recent year local and international NGOs have played significant role in preservation and promotion of our cultural heritage. KADO and Aga Khan Foundation are two major NGO in this regard.

Role of provincial Government

Provincial government can play a major role to promote and preserve our cultural linkage. They need to work to establish small local businesses and industry of handicrafts which can improve the economic conditions of our people. Thanks to the present government for celebrating my Cap day on September 1 , 2016. This will play a role in signifying the importance of our cultural heritage.

http://pamirtimes.net/2016/09/30/my-cap-my-pride-the-womens-caps-of-gigit-baltistan/
 
Brilliant share @shimshali , congrats to all. Just have a 'khoi', no feathers and no fancy work on it :(.

@krash ,@saiyan0321 ,@Levina , @Joe Shearer , don't miss this thread.

@Side-Winder , could you please share this on social media please. Would be kind of you.
Thanks!
The user had tagged me on this thread already.
But I wasn't sure how to respond. India-Pakistan tensions you know. :)

Btw bro are you wearing your topi today?
 
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