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Achar — the desi condiment that has stood the test of time

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Acharthe desi condiment that has stood the test of time

AAMIR YASIN

Achar can be found in almost every home in India and Pakistan

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Nowadays, the delicacy is sold in shops across the city, most claiming they make it at home. The desi condiment is also produced by large food companies.


Achar is used as a condiment with many South Asian dishes, especially the less spicy ones, such as daal chawal and vegetables, to lend them more flavour.

The lanes of Urdu Bazaar are lined with pickle shops, with visitors and shoppers being greeted by the strong aroma of pickled vegetables marinating in spices.

The spices used to marinate the vegetables in are also used in some traditional dishes such as mutton achari and chicken achari.

The desi version of pickles, in which a generous amount of spices and mustard oil is used, was introduced in this part of the world centuries ago in order to preserve food and use it in time of need.

Achar can be found in almost every home in India and Pakistan. It was first made at home and families would preserve keri, or unripe green mangoes, in oil and spices so they could have it in the winters.

Nowadays, the delicacy is sold in shops across the city, most claiming they make it at home. The desi condiment is also produced by large food companies.

But when they have time, most people like going to the narrow lanes of old markets to buy traditional, homemade achar.

Small shops in the downtown areas of Rawalpindi specialise in making pickles including in Raja Bazaar, Purana Qila, Bhabara Bazaar, Saidpuri Gate, Banni and Kartarpura and some are very popular among residents of the city.

“We have been selling achar for the last 70 years. Our family came from Amritsar and started a shop for selling pickles, which my grandmother made at home,” said Haji Shahid, a shop owner in Sabzi Mandi near Lal Haveli.

Mr Shahid said their pickles are made without the use of chemicals and preservatives and that the spices, mustard seeds and mustard oil are enough to preserve the condiment for more than a year.

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“Using mustard oil is vital because it preserves mangoes and other vegetables. Some of the spices used also help, such as rai, red chillies and salt,” he said.

He explained that some of the vegetables had to be marinated and preserved in vinegar such as cucumber, green chillies, garlic, carrots and cauliflower among others. These pickles are not spiced and the vegetables are dried and salted before being marinated in vinegar for a few days.

Another shopkeeper, Mohammad Riaz, said women would make achar at home in the past and sell it to shopkeepers. He said shopkeepers and vendors have now started making pickles at home themselves to keep up with demand.

“Most pickles are made in the summers, because of the availability of mangoes. The recipe for mango achar is simple and does not require the use of artificial ingredients,” he said.

Most people like to have various achar with their meals in the summers and it is a must with particular dishes.

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“Tangy achar, salad and mint chutney are a must when I am having daal chawal. I cannot have the dish without achar, come summer or winter,” said Mohammad Sohail, a resident of Bhabara Bazaar.

“People started making achar to help with their digestive system because anise, mustard seed, rai, amla and other seeds and spices used make it easy to digest heavy meals,” he said.

A resident of Saddar, Malik Mazhar said achar may taste good but contains high amounts of salt which can lead to health problems. He said achar is good for the digestive system but the same spices are used in main courses as well, which may create health problems.

“Excess of anything is bad,” he said.
 
Pakistani Style Vegetable Pickle - Achaar




Ambreen Malik

Ingredients

  1. 12 Lemons (Quartered – remove the seeds) –
  2. 20 Chilies Fresh Green – long (make a lengthwise slit)
  3. 4 Carrots – Medium . (Cut like match sticks but thicker in size)
  4. 6 Mango – Green – Cut in chunks
  5. 24 Curry Leaves Fresh -
  6. 2 Garlic – bulbs (Peeled)
  7. 6 - 7 Cups Mustard Oil –
  8. Spices :
  9. 2 Tsps Fennel seeds Saunf / – heaped –
  10. 3 tsps seeds Kalonji Nigella / – heaped –
  11. 3 tsps Mustard Seeds / Rai Dana – heaped –
  12. 3 tsps Fenugreek Seeds Methi / Dana – heaped –
  13. 3 tsps chilies Crushed red – heaped –
  14. 1 tsp Turmeric Haldi / –
  15. 10 tsps Salt – – Heaped

Method


    1. Prepare the Mustard oil


    2. Pour the Mustard Oil in a deep sauce pan. Put 3 cloves of garlic with skin in the cold oil. Boil the oil at high heat for 15 mins. This is done to eliminate the natural bitterness and dense smell of the mustard oil. Ensure that the kitchen is well ventilated as you boil the oil. It will release tons of smoke and unpleasant smell so be prepared. It’s a good idea to exit the kitchen as it boils and come in to switch off the stove. Light some extra candles in the kitchen as you undertake this ac...


    3. Cool the oil. Put aside.


    4. Prepare the vegetables


    5. Cut all the vegetables as instructed.


    6. Mix all the spices and spread evenly over the vegetables. Use a glazed clay dish or High grade plastic utensil for this activity. Grannies advise not to use any metal utensil in pickle making as the acid from the lemon can corrode the metal leading to pickle going black and bad in days ahead. I have used clay pots and a wooden spoon to do the mixing.


    7. The spiced vegetables need to be put in sun for about 2-3 days till their water dries up.


    8. On the third day, add the vegetables to the big claypot /martabaan and pour the cold mustard oil over the vegetables till everything is completely submerged in the oil.


    9. The pickle is required to be put in sun daily for about 10-15 days in summer and 15-20 days in winter before the vegetables become soft and ready for consumption. Mix the pickle daily with a dry wooden spoon.


    10. Everyone has their own favorite things to eat with this condiment. I enjoy this with Daal Chawal - Curried Lentil and boiled rice.

Little spice for your taste buds. Pickles from Shikarpur (Shikarpuri Achar)


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Mango pickle (Aam ka achar) is specially made from raw-mangoes (kache aam). Shikarpuri mango pickle is famous in Pakistan and people are having it on dinning table all the time. Raw or tender mango is the most suitable and famous fruit used in pickling (achar). It remains fresh till 10-12 months.


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RECIPE FOR MIXED VEGETABLE ACHAR
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INGREDIENTS
  • Turnips 4 lb
  • Cauliflower 2 lb
  • Young carrots 2 lb
  • Shelled peas 1 lb
  • Green ginger 4 oz
  • Garlic 4 pods
  • Onions 1/4 lb
  • Jaggery 2 lb
  • Chili powder 2 tbsp
  • Garam masala 1 tbsp
  • Ground mustard seeds 1 tbsp
  • Vinegar 3/4 pint
  • Turmeric powder 1 tsp
  • Salt to taste
  • Mustard oil 1 pint

COOKING DIRECTIONS

Slice turnips into 1/4-inch discs.

Quarter carrots lengthwise and cut cauliflower into 2 inch pieces.

Boil water in a large saucepan, add all the vegetables and cook for 5 minutes to soften.

Drain off the water and spread on a clean towel to dry.

Wipe off excess water. Grind garlic, ginger and onions together to a paste.

Heat oil and fry the paste, add remaining spices and salt and fry till the oil floats to the top.

Cool and add vegetables. Shake the vessel to mix well.

Put in a large jar and keep in the sun for 2-3 days till vegetables turn a little sour. Shake the bottle well every day.

Heat vinegar with jagger and boil.

Cool and add to the vegetables.

Place jar in the sun for another 2 days till well-blended and tender. Preserve in airtight jar.
 
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