What's in a dhaba? A second home, for some chai addicts

[ghazi52]

What's in a dhaba? A second home, for some chai addicts


“Ustaad, do parathay or ek doodh patti!” is a common refrain at these tea-serving establishments

For many dhaba enthusiasts believe, there is no breakfast in the world that can match a garma-garam steaming cup of tea, the overwhelming smell of parathas being cooked


“Ustaad, do parathay or ek doodh patti!” (Two parathas and one cup tea). That was the first voice I heard as I entered into the New Bismillah Afridi hotel and restaurant, located near my residence in North Karachi.

It was about 7:30am and almost all tables were occupied. The whole environment was bursting with the mesmerising smell of parathas being fried and sounds of eggs crackling in the same flat pan.

This dhaba (roadside tea hotel) is located on my way to the bus stop, from where I catch my university bus. During the four years I have attended university, I have repeatedly seen the usual breakfast routine with speedy service but somehow, never had enough time to chat with the servers.

Read on: The perfect doodh pati - I quizzed my chai wala, so you don't have to

What struck me every time I saw them was their tireless energy in those early hours of the day. Be it the server, the tea-maker or the paratha cook, every one looked so focused, smoothly carrying out their tedious daily tasks, efficiently running their dhaba.

The ubiquitous dhaba for the everyman
You will find dhabas in every nook and cranny of Karachi, and most of them are owned and managed by Pathans. The main clientele of such dhabas are menial workers, students and blue collar workers who visit these affordable eating places for breakfast or to spend some leisure time over a cup of tea after a hectic day. Here they can watch TV or enjoy some popular film music and sometimes old favourites. It is now a trend for young people to hang out at dhabas in the evening, savouring a variety of parathas and tea.

Some like a cup of tea in the open air, for others dhabas are like a second home

At a time when even the well-to-do feel the financial crunch, for the common man it is impossible to afford tea or a meal in a cafe or a fancy restaurant. Roadside dhabas also provide a decent meal at reasonable rates, although the quality of food is debatable. Nonetheless, dhabas in Karachi are rapidly expanding making it a lucrative enterprise in times when it is hard to set up a business.

With the rise in dhaba culture in Karachi, you see families eating hot parathaswith a steaming daal fry or just sipping doodh patti or kahwa, late into the night. The food is freshly cooked and full of flavour.

Chai dhabas are popular in the subcontinent as people are attached to chai to refresh them as well as to enjoy the camaraderie of those who enjoy a simple, tasteful meal that is easy on the pocket, which is another reason why people frequent the same dhabas. Dhabas or chai khanas are an indication of a basic lifestyle that got lost in the commonplace undertakings of our materialistic culture.

Abdul Karim, waiting for his order with some friends, told me he has breakfast here on a daily basis. His family is in Charsadda, while he lives in Karachi with some friends. He usually has his meals at the dhaba which is like his second home. Alamgir Khan, the cashier said that a number of policemen, working class people and students visit every day for tea and samosas or to have a quick lunch.

Tariq says that it is the reasonable cost which keeps him from going to any other place for breakfast. A paratha is for Rs25, with an omelette priced at Rs40, and a delightful cup of tea for Rs20.

Dhabas or roadside restaurants are very much a part of every city and town in Pakistan. For many dhaba enthusiasts believe, there is no breakfast in the world that can match a garma-garam steaming cup of tea, the overwhelming smell of parathas being cooked, the omelette with fresh green chilli and the thick malai (cream) with sugar sprinkled on top for dipping the paratha.

 

[[Bregs]]

lol cool share bro, the dhaba tea is far far better then then the tea vending machines of cos

 

[ghazi52]

NOMAN ANSARI

I talked to my chai wala, learned his story, and asked him to teach me his skill with the pot and kettle

If there is a question every Pakistani has asked more than once throughout life, it is: ‘How have we managed to survive so long?’

Pakistan has endured wars, terrorist attacks, ethnic violence, religious violence, military dictators, and more. It has been plagued with corrupt politicians, defeats in every cricket World Cup to India, Mathira, Humsafar reruns, the Akmal family, and worse. Our women can’t go to work without being stared at. Our men can’t look within a 5km radius of a woman without being labeled a taru (starer). Our people leak money to corruption, inflation, utility bills, lawn sales, and thieves.

It has come to the point where every man in Pakistan carries two wallets and two cellphones; one to keep, and one to give away during muggings. Since thieves have begun to wise up, we will probably have to carry three of each, one to keep, one to give to thieves, and a second fake one when they insist you give them the right one.

If this continues, I am sure in a few years every Pakistani will carry one good cellphone and a real wallet, and at least nine decoys, just to be safe. It will come to the point where our pockets will be drooping with decoys. Every time the thief insists they be handed the right one, you can say, “Oh..OH… fine… fine… I’ll give you the real one this time.”

Car thievery is another issue Pakistanis face. Unfortunately, the decoy strategy doesn’t work with vehicles. We can’t drive our Hondas with a Mehran following behind via tow.

Thief: “Gari do!” (Give me the car!)

You: “OK, here are the keys to the Mehran.”

Thief: “GRRRRRR”

You: “Oh..OH… fine… fine… I’ll give you the real one this time.”

Yet, in spite of these problems, Pakistanis manage to persevere. Like the poor donkey walking on the street, carrying more weight than the mass of Jupiter, we defy the odds and continue to trudge down our paths.

How do we manage?

Some speculate Pakistanis are extraordinarily resilient. Others claim it is a supernatural entity, like the Abdullah Shah Ghazi shrine, or Mathira’s massive lips, but I think we all know the answer to the question.

Of course, our magical elixir is doodh pati.

In doodh pati lies relief from all of life's miseries – Photo by author


I come from a chai drinking family. My mother consumes so much tea we have a CNG cylinder for her to drink from. Meanwhile, my working friends, like most red blooded Pakistanis, can’t survive without a dose of doodh pati every few hours. Once, a blood bank rejected a buddy because more doodh pati ran through his veins than blood. True story.

Yes, we love doodh pati, but especially when under stress. One cup of doodh pati and the boss’s barking sounds like a cat’s meow. One cup of doodh patiand you suddenly scoff at your deadline, "Sleep? Who needs sleep? I am perfectly fine. Oh, what are those flying goats doing in the office?"

But while we love doodh pati, we have never asked ourselves about the men who sell the delicious brew.

So, I set off on a quest. I would finally make conversation with the man making my doodh pati for the last five years, learn his story, and ask him to teach me his skill with the pot and kettle.

I prepared for this arduous journey by packing my equipment (read: camera and notebook), seeking counsel with my powerful allies (read: cats), bidding a tearful farewell to my love (who probably began reconsidering our relationship soon after), and preparing my steed (read: checked the car’s radiator).

A two-minute drive later, I was at the Quetta Shahjee Hotel. This dhaba, located very much in Karachi, features a young clean shaven Ali Zafar on its signboard, who carries an innocent smile that says, “Come in and have some tea. Everyone is welcome. Even you.”

Who wouldn't be charmed by Ali Zafar's benign smile? – Photo by author


Meeting the chai master
Here, I introduce myself to Abdul Wahab, who with his bushy black beard and ready smile looks like a companion of Gandalf from Middle Earth. Even his black Panda Express apron says ‘Joy’.

A smiling Abdul Wahab agreed to share both his story and the tricks of his trade – Photo by author


I ask this genial man if he’d like to share his story for Dawn Images, and explain how women far and wide will reach out to his handsome self. Smiling, and perhaps momentarily fantasizing about throwing some hot tea on my face, Wahab blushes, “I was married a lifetime ago.”

With his customers waiting, Wahab begins preparing their orders.

What all goes into the magical concotion that is Abdul Wahab's doodh pati – Photos by author


As he works, he explains that he has been brewing doodh pati for at least 20 years. After completing his education at the age of 15, the age-old knowledge of tea making was imparted to him from an experienced brewer.

Since that day he has worked happily as a chai wala.

Originally hailing from Quetta, Balochistan, Wahab says he moved to Karachi because of the water shortage in his hometown. At this, I wonder how deep Quetta’s water problems are for someone to move to a water deprived city like Karachi.

His dhaba, found on 10th Commercial Street, Phase 4, D.H.A., is usually packed. In the mornings, the eatery serves delicious crispy anda parathas. Meanwhile, doodh pati is available all day. Clients from all walks of life come here for their daily fix, especially from local businesses.

Happy patrons of Quetta Shahjee Hotel attest to the excellent chai brewed there


Several customers turn to me, unable to hold back praise for Abdul Wahab’s delicious tea. One camera-shy patron prefers to drink it the old fashioned way, from the edge of a saucer. Other, less bashful clients sing praises of how concerns in their daily lives are forgotten for a precious few minutes at thisdhaba.

Some like to drink it the old-fashioned way, from the edge of the saucer – Photo by author


I have a little sip. As usual, Wahab’s doodh pati is top-notch. The balance between milk and sugar is perfect, while the kick of the caffeine is strong enough to cure Altaf Bhai’s long-running hoarse throat.

Abdul Wahab says he loves cooking tea. At peak hours, he prepares thirty cups a minute. Next, he drops a bombshell, “Yeah, I don’t like the taste ofdoodh pati. If I must consume tea, I take it long and black.”

The secret recipe
Abdul Wahab teaches me how to make doodh pati. He says the secret is in the ingredients. The milk must be fresh and creamy and the pati should be plentiful. Ultimately, it must be cooked with the right balance.

Having absorbed the teaching, I go home, determined to perfect the art of making doodh pati.

I patiently waited as the doodh pati brewed, eager to taste my first cup

 

[ghazi52]

After putting together my concoction the next day, I give it a taste, and am pleased. “Not bad if I do say so myself!”

But who am I, a mere tea drinker, to judge my own creation? No, it must be reviewed by the master himself. Minutes later, I am back at Abdul Wahab’s shop, my doodh pati in a thermos by my side.

I prepare to take my creation to the master – Photos by author


Abdul Wahab, the good natured man that he is, immediately agrees to taste what I have put together. As his assistant pours out some tea, I ask Abdul Wahab to judge with brutal honesty. He nods, his goodnatured smile not leaving his face.

Out poured my doodh pati, from the thermos to the dhaba tea-cup – Photo by author

The master decides to have it the old-fashioned way, from the edge of the saucer – Photo by author


Finally, he drinks, and I feel like I am a contestant on Masterchef, facing Gordon Ramsey himself.

The master takes a sip, while I waited with bated breath – Photo by author

'Is good,' he says! – Photo by author


After a few tastes, Abdul Wahab smiles. He says that although the tea is good, I didn’t use as much pati as I should have, and didn’t let it cook long enough, “Aap aik do dafa banay ga to theek hojay gay.” (If you make it a few more times, you’ll get it completely right).

I joke, “Yes, and then I will open a dhaba next to yours.”

Abdul Wahab laughs as if to say, “Bring it on b****.”

How to make doodh pati, according to Master Wahab:
Step 1: Put three cups of water in a pot and leave it to boil. After the water starts bubbling, add a teaspoon of tea leaves. Wait till the mixture cooks.

Step 2: Add 1 cup of full cream milk to the pot, preferably straight from the cow’s teat itself. If you don’t own such an animal, then you can find what you need at a supermarket. Let all the ingredients cook to your judgment.

Step 3: Place the pot on low heat and add sugar if you so desire. After mixing thoroughly on low heat, transfer the doodh pati to a teapot using a filter to hold back the tea residue.

Remember, practice makes perfect! And if you can’t get it right, Abdul Wahab is a drive away.

 

[VCheng]

The dhaba is an international phenomenon.

 

[Grevion]

These kinds of things may not be good for health but are a perfect example of an excellent brunch.

 

[ghazi52]

This restaurant at the busy part of the road is open 24 hours