ghazi52
PDF THINK TANK: ANALYST
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2007
- Messages
- 102,603
- Reaction score
- 106
- Country
- Location
Rama: A paradise (almost) lost
PHOTOS: OSMAN EHTISHAM ANWAR
Aisar and I are sitting at one of the ubiquitous tent khokhas that have sprawled up all over Rama meadows with the Polo Festival having come to an end. The district government that organised and supported the event had transported horses and all the paraphernalia but not one garbage dumpster was in sight! As we speak, Shabbir, the khokha owner, empties the remaining biscuits in a plate and conveniently chucks the packet behind a boulder. A small pile has gradually accumulated there. Noticing my unamused look, he assures me not to worry as this will disappear in a few weeks.
One of the many tent khokhas
Puzzled, I inquire if there is some sort of a cleanup drive by the authorities expected now that the Polo Festival is over?
“Andhi Toufan sub kuch apnay saath ura lay jaeey ga”
(The wind and storm will sweep this place clean), he replies nonchalantly.
His tent is right next to a fast flowing stream that will eventually merge into Astore River. He doesn’t care what the consequences are for those living downstream. As long as nothing remains where his tent is pitched come next year. Sadly this is the attitude shared amongst many others who only come to the northern areas for commerce, depicting a complete lack of empathy or understanding of the environment and the eco-system; selfish to say the least.
Enjoy, plunder and “Allah pay choar do” (leave it to God) a convenient excuse we have all become so attuned to. The district government, on the other hand, was preoccupied putting up banners boasting the names and faces of the district and provincial officials backing the event. Needless to say, there was no provision for basic toilet facilities despite knowing that an entire districts populace would be descending on these beautiful meadows during the festival.
Going only by the distance is utterly deceptive in this region. Rama is about eight kilometres from Astore bazaar and a hike up can be a good five to six hour scramble. I regretted doing just that. Aisar was revving up his bike that had been returned to him by a friend, as I reached Choungrah. Sticking to the oldest trick in my book I inquired about the distance to Rama (secretly hoping for a lift). Shaking his bike to get a feel for how much petrol remained in the tank, while the needle pointed dead straight at empty.
A beautiful pool on the way to Rama Lake.
As if he read my mind, Aisar cheerfully said,
“Bhai I can take you as far up as the petrol lasts,”
And signalled me to hop on. The sun had already gone down. The pine, juniper and cedar trees cast ghostly shadows that stretch across the landscape in the moonlight. Rama looked beautiful with just enough light to hide the ugly marks made by humans and enhance the beauty of nature.
Gateway to Rama Meadows
Cattle have the right of way
Rama Lake is still another two hours trek from the meadows. The two guest houses at Rama – PTDC and forest are both fully booked, as is the case during summers, mostly by government dignitaries. Having left my camping gear in Astore I decide to head back down with Aisar and return to Rama Lake the next day.
Forest Department guest house
..............
PHOTOS: OSMAN EHTISHAM ANWAR
Aisar and I are sitting at one of the ubiquitous tent khokhas that have sprawled up all over Rama meadows with the Polo Festival having come to an end. The district government that organised and supported the event had transported horses and all the paraphernalia but not one garbage dumpster was in sight! As we speak, Shabbir, the khokha owner, empties the remaining biscuits in a plate and conveniently chucks the packet behind a boulder. A small pile has gradually accumulated there. Noticing my unamused look, he assures me not to worry as this will disappear in a few weeks.
One of the many tent khokhas
Puzzled, I inquire if there is some sort of a cleanup drive by the authorities expected now that the Polo Festival is over?
“Andhi Toufan sub kuch apnay saath ura lay jaeey ga”
(The wind and storm will sweep this place clean), he replies nonchalantly.
His tent is right next to a fast flowing stream that will eventually merge into Astore River. He doesn’t care what the consequences are for those living downstream. As long as nothing remains where his tent is pitched come next year. Sadly this is the attitude shared amongst many others who only come to the northern areas for commerce, depicting a complete lack of empathy or understanding of the environment and the eco-system; selfish to say the least.
Enjoy, plunder and “Allah pay choar do” (leave it to God) a convenient excuse we have all become so attuned to. The district government, on the other hand, was preoccupied putting up banners boasting the names and faces of the district and provincial officials backing the event. Needless to say, there was no provision for basic toilet facilities despite knowing that an entire districts populace would be descending on these beautiful meadows during the festival.
Going only by the distance is utterly deceptive in this region. Rama is about eight kilometres from Astore bazaar and a hike up can be a good five to six hour scramble. I regretted doing just that. Aisar was revving up his bike that had been returned to him by a friend, as I reached Choungrah. Sticking to the oldest trick in my book I inquired about the distance to Rama (secretly hoping for a lift). Shaking his bike to get a feel for how much petrol remained in the tank, while the needle pointed dead straight at empty.
A beautiful pool on the way to Rama Lake.
As if he read my mind, Aisar cheerfully said,
“Bhai I can take you as far up as the petrol lasts,”
And signalled me to hop on. The sun had already gone down. The pine, juniper and cedar trees cast ghostly shadows that stretch across the landscape in the moonlight. Rama looked beautiful with just enough light to hide the ugly marks made by humans and enhance the beauty of nature.
Gateway to Rama Meadows
Cattle have the right of way
Rama Lake is still another two hours trek from the meadows. The two guest houses at Rama – PTDC and forest are both fully booked, as is the case during summers, mostly by government dignitaries. Having left my camping gear in Astore I decide to head back down with Aisar and return to Rama Lake the next day.
Forest Department guest house
..............
