LAHORE .. Sustainable Development of Walled City

[ghazi52]

Sustainable Development of Walled City...................


The city district government has already launched a project aimed at restoring the façade of historical buildings in the city. Four buildings have been chosen in the first phase. They are the Shah Din building, which was built in 1910 and is partly owned by the National Insurance Company; Ghulam Rasool building, which was built in 1916 and houses Ferozsons, Bawa Dinga Singh building, which was built in 1927 and houses a Bata store, and Ahmad Mansion, also known as Lakshmi Mansion, which dates back to 1927.

A committee has been formed to look after the project. The committee includes District Coordination Officer Noorul Amin Mengal, Municipal Services EDO Masud Tamanna, PHA DG Muhammad Mahmood, Saleema Hashmi, Dr Ajaz Anwar and Yousaf Salahuddin.

There was a time when on the ground floor of the Shah Din building, the Taj Company printed Holy Quran. On its first floor, there was a recording studio, said Hussain.

He said they would be able to restore the original façade of the four building in four months. He said they would meet the owners of Lakshmi Mansion and Bawadinga Singh building to highlight the project importance and get an NOC. He said if they were successful in restoring the historical buildings, it would attract a large number of tourists to Lahore.

He said shops signboards would be designed and a standard format would be maintained for all. He said big and colourful shop designs spoil the historical and architectural beauty of the buildings.

In a statement, DCO Mengal said the old and historical buildings on The Mall would be preserved without changing their structure. He said the original identity and beauty of Lahore was due to its historical structures.

It is pertinent to mention here that regulating the streamers, billboards and shop signs was a subject of the Parks and Horticulture Authority. The PHA director general said the signboards of franchises were regulated by the PHA whereas the signboards of ordinary shops were looked after by the PHA and the CDGL. He said the standards set would not be very rigid and would not make the boards monotonous


Gates of Lahore

 

[ghazi52]

Old picture of Pak Tea House:

Pak tea House. Before renovation

After renovation

Renovation of Bawa Dinga Singh building

 

[ghazi52]

Lakshmi Mansion renovation

Bawa Dinga Singh building after renovation

General Insurance building

The fabled bazaar where epics and legends abounded

MAJID SHEIKH

Kashmiri Bazaar as seen from Wazir Khan mosque.

Every time I walk through Lahore’s Delhi Gate and head towards the now fast dilapidating mosque of Wazir Khan, I invariably think of the now long lost book shops inside the mosque and, more importantly, the few remaining book publishing concerns of the fabled Kashmiri Bazaar that starts from the mosque onwards.

Last week I visited the area with a foreign research historian working on the “role of students in the freedom movement in northern India”. In this, the role of Lahore remains paramount. The ancient book shops in the inner perimeter of the mosque fascinated her, for she had no idea of how old the book industry of Lahore was. In this piece let me dwell on the relatively recent past of Kashmiri Bazaar, and the great book and poster publishing concerns that once existed, as well as the few remaining old historic ones that have dwindled in size.

To understand the dynamics of this industry, let me present to you two pictures. One the early official records starting 1849, and, secondly, a glimpse of a single publication, the legendary story of Ranjha and Heer as told by several well-known writers and poets over the ages. This approach, though not perfect, I feel will give some perspective to an industry that has long been ignored by the people of Lahore, much that it is their own very loss. Probably the oldest book published in the old walled city was the poetry of Masood Saad Salman, who died in the year 1121 AD, born in Lahore and captured and made a slave by Afghan invader Mahmud of Ghazni. His poetry initially carried on word of mouth, but several different versions exist of what he wrote. Almost all of them are hand-written. I cannot pin down the location in Lahore where they were produced.

We know of the ‘janam sakhi’, the traditional biographies of Nanak (1469-1539), being produced in large numbers in Lahore. The location of these is mostly in the Lahori Gate area, where the industry initially existed.

By the time the mosque was completed in 1642 in the reign of Shah Jehan (1592-1666), the Kashmiri Bazaar was forming, though of much more importance in those days was the Kesara Bazaar – the Brass Bazaar. Slowly the publishing shops began to appear as the demand for cheaper hand-written books grew. The major leather-bound ‘qissas’ in exquisite calligraphy using floral decorated Lahori hand-made paper was a much sought after product by the camel trade caravans that congregated outside the mosque -- then a market square. Mosques invariably emerged where markets existed. In the square, ‘qissa khawans’ – story tellers – made good money, exactly on the lines as they did in the Kissakhawani Bazaar in Peshawar. It was a tradition that stretched across the Indian sub-continent and Central Asia – the mosque, the market square and the story-tellers. Specialist editions of the classics were produced and the caravans purchased them to sell in the markets of Central Asia, eventually ending up with Orientalists, and libraries and museums, in a Europe awakening from the Dark Ages.

As demand increased, publishing shops started opening along Kashmiri Bazaar, as did shops specialising in paper supply, paper floral decorators, calligraphists, book-binders and book sellers. The story of Lahori hand-made paper is a legendary and interesting one, for women in the ‘mohallahs’ manufactured the paper in their houses, with the pulp being made along the river Ravi. A few shops even sold paper pulp which the women purchased and converted into hand-made paper.

At this stage let us take a look at the most popular book hand-written and sold in Kashmiri Bazaar over the last 200 years -- the story of Heer and Ranjha as produced by different poets and writers and published by various publishers in Kashmiri Bazaar. We have the ‘Si Harfi’ series of Fazl Shah produced in 1886 by Chiragh Din Kutab Farosh, a 32-page publication. This ‘Si Harfi’ edition was also produced by Shaikh Ashraf of Kashmiri Bazaar in 1887, along with other stories. This shop still exists. A different version of Munshi Ghulam Hussain was published by Munshi Gulab Singh of Kashmiri Bazaar and was produced in 1891. In its days this had the largest print run of 2,000 books.

But an earlier version of this epic written by a poet named Hussain was published in 1873 by the Maktab Sultani of Kashmiri Bazaar titled ‘Heer Hussain’. His concern in the same year also published the ‘Heer Si Harfi Arora Rai’ with an amazing print run of 2,100. On this we will dwell later in this piece. By this time you might be wondering just where was the ‘Heer’ of Syed Waris Shah of Jandiala Sher Khan near Sheikhupura. This had been published by almost every publisher in Kashmiri Bazaar, and an amazing hand-written version prepared in the mosque of Wazir Khan was also produced which today lies in the Berlin Museum in Germany.

Among the publishers who printed and sold this classic were Haskal and Sons, Munshi Azizuddin Kutab Sarosh, Malik Din Muhammad Kutab Sarosh, Prem Singh Sachdio and Sons (who also produced it in Amritsar), Rai Sahib Munshi Gulab Singh Kutab Farosh and Malik Hera Tajar Kutab. All these concerns were major publishers in Kashmiri Bazaar.

The classic by the great Domadar Das Arora, a Rai of Jhang, who lived in the times of Akbar the Great and was a ‘patwari’ in the village of Heer. He claimed to have witnessed the real events, a claim most serious researcher tend to dismiss. His classic titled ‘Heer Domadar’ was produced first by the mosque shops, and much later in 1824 in the Sikh era in Kashmiri Bazaar by a ‘kutab farosh’ by the name of Maktab Kadimi, a small shop which still exists. Later on almost every publisher in this bazaar produced this version, and most Urdu Bazaar shops continue to print and sell this and the Waris Shah versions for supply to the Punjab rural market.

Just why is it important to research and write about Kashmiri Bazaar and its publishers? The answer is simple, for this represents the finest traditions of learning of the walled city of Lahore, a tradition that needs to be revived and carried to a new level. I do know of an effort by a Lahore-based NGO who are preparing to train poor women in producing hand-made paper along the lines of the old and legendary Lahori paper. This income-generating activity can breathe new economic and cultural life into an ancient city stifled by ruthless wholesale markets that have taken over 70 per cent of the old city’s housing for illegal commercial activities.

Will they once again produce a hand-written ‘Heer Domadar’ in an exquisite leather-bound version using Lahori hand-made paper, or for that matter the Waris Shah classic, or other epics that made this city great, or even such exclusive versions of Shah Hussain, Ustad Daman, Faiz and Iqbal, all of whom once roamed about in Kashmiri Bazaar looking for books? This only time will tell.

Restoration Work being carried out in Lahore Fort

 

[ghazi52]

Lahore Fort Shish Mahal Basement (built 1631-32)

Beneath the Shish Mahal and the Shah Burj Quadrangle is an extensive series of interconnected chambers often referred to as the 'Lahore Fort Dungeons'. In fact, the area was likely used as a summer residence as the massive stonework and minimal fenestration kept the chambers naturally cool during the warmer months. During the Mughal, Sikh, and British eras the basement chambers were wholly off limits to the public. Only in 2006 did the Punjab Archaeology Department begin opening the chambers for visitors, and then only for short periods to host various exhibitions.

 

[ghazi52]

Delhi Gate

Like the other twelve historical gates of Lahore, Delhi Gate has witnessed phases of tranquility and turbulence, reconstruction and modification

Illumination at night.

Going from Lahore Railway Station towards Do Moria Pul, it takes hardly three minutes to reach the gigantic Dilli Darwaza, a huge structure welcoming you to the old city.

The Darwaza, built by the third Mughal Emperor Akbar in the 1600s, is one of the thirteen gates that provided access to the city of Lahore, once enclosed within a 30-foot high, fortified wall. Centuries later, Delhi Gate still stands majestically on the eastern side of the Walled City.

Delhi Gate was so named because it faced Delhi, the then capital of the Mughal dynasty. During the British era, all the gates of the Walled City of Lahore were demolished and the area was turned into Circular Road and a circular garden which exist to this day.

The gates were reconstructed in the early 1900s, by the British. This is one reason why the existing few gates including Delhi Gate have echoes of the Anglo-Mughal architecture.

The only Mughal gate is Roshnai Gate which is situated next to Maharaja Ranjeet Singh’s Samadhi. According to historic accounts and archival references, all the gates around the city of Lahore were built on the pattern of Roshnai. Their structures were modified when they were being rebuilt.

Delhi Gate has witnessed phases of tranquility and turbulence. There was a time when it enjoyed the status of a ‘welcoming gate’ to the “Royal City.” Later, in Sikhs’ regime and during the British Raj, it served as the court of magistrate, jails and police station.

The gigantic wooden doors, still intact in Lohari Gate, were also a part of the building. But according to researchers, the doors were either burnt or damaged during riots and the War of Independence. During the Mughal era, the doors would be closed after sunset when the city traditionally went to sleep, thus allowing no access.
The gates were reconstructed in the early 1900s, by the British. This is one reason why the existing few gates have echoes of the Anglo-Mughal architecture.

After 1947, the building of the gate housed a girls’ school which is still functional. Besides, the locals also use the rooftop of the Gate for holding wedding and religious ceremonies.

The ceiling of the ground-floor interior of Delhi Gate is dome shaped, with six rooms. The rooms were used by the ‘chobdars’ in Mughal era, the magistrates and the police in later times. After 1947, the rooms served as a dispensary and health centers for the local community. Presently, they are being used by the Walled City of Lahore Authority (WCLA) as a tourist information centre. Any walk-in tourist can easily get hold of a guide, as the facility is there.

One can still find pigeons resting on the bordered windows inside the Gate, a charismatic feature of Walled City buildings. Going to the rooftop one can see the recently conserved Shahi Hammam (or the Royal Bath) on the right side. It is said that when the Gate was rebuilt, a portion of the Hammam was demolished and incorporated in the Gate’s building. The existing Hammam is half of its original structure.

Night life.

The rooftop of the Gate, currently a school, comprises nine rooms, a courtyard and a hall. This very hall was used by the magistrate during the British times, as the raised concrete platform is still intact. But now it is used by the teachers. The other rooms serve as classrooms and science laboratories.

The stairs, built on a 90o angle, leading to the rooftop, are another interesting feature. The reason for such a construction, as told by a tourist guide, was to reduce the climbing speed of the attacking forces. Yes, one is breathless when climbing up the stairs!

The roof is plain and even, and offers a grand view of the old city and the Royal Trail’s vibrant bazaar.

An old watchman of the school recalls wistfully how the minarets of Masjid Wazir Khan were once visible from the rooftop of Delhi Gate. Today, the view is obstructed by the many high-rise buildings that dot the cityscape.

The watchman also says that a couple of years back the entrance of the Gate was occupied by makeshift shops and stalls. The encroachments were removed as a part of the WCLA restoration project, in 2011.

The grand entrance of Delhi Gate.

Delhi Gate has another unique feature — the Royal Trail — which distinguishes it from the other gates of the Walled City. The Royal Trail was used by the Mughal emperors when travelling from Lahori Gate (Red Fort) in Delhi to the Lahore Fort.

The Royal Trail leads straight to Lahore Fort’s Akbari Gate, named after the Mughal Emperor Akbar. The stately monuments of the Walled City such as Shahi Hammam, Chitta Gate, Dina Nath Well, Masjid Wazir Khan, Sonehri Masjid, Pani Wala Taalab and Mariam Zamani Mosque can all be seen across the Trail.

At the main entrance of Delhi Gate, towards its left, there is a famous food market called Akbari Mandi. It is said that camels and elephants were commonly used to transport goods and food grains in the Mughal era. They have now been replaced by other beasts of burden.

The same Gate leads to the lively and rich Waan Market, Kasera Bazaar and Kashmiri Bazaar which are known for their antique crockery, traditional furniture and clothes.

Out of the thirteen gates, Delhi, Kashmiri, Sheranwala, Roshnai, Bhaati and Lohari are still seen standing magnificently around the Walled City of Lahore, but without the huge walls which once joined them. On the other hand, Masti Gate, Taxali Gate, Mori Gate, Shah Almi Gate, Mochi Gate, Akbari Gate and Yakki Gate do not exist now. Some of these gates were burnt down during the War of Independence and the others collapsed of their own.

_



The current projects in Lahore fort include:

- Royal Kitchen
- Wooden bridge near Moti Masjid
- Sikh Gallery/Armory Museum restoration
- Picture wall (this project is being handled by AKCSP)
- New ticketing house
- Kala Burj and Shah Burj
- Accessibility for the disabled project (ramps, sign boards, disabled parking)
__________________

 

[ghazi52]

 

[ali_raza]

we should preserve what wecan.but isnt it on mortgage??

 

[Yasir Ashraf]