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In the footsteps of Rajas: A journey through the soul of Potohar
FAROOQ SOOMRO
The scenic landscape makes driving through Potohar a memorable experience.
"Are you sure there is something worth visiting in this direction?" he asks.
"Does it matter if the road remains as scenic?" I reply, my eyes fixed on an old banyan tree in the distance.
Potohar — The land of ancient relics
Soon I arrive in the Potohar region; the first landmark on our agenda is the temple in Malot. We turn left from Kalar Kahar Exchange on the motorway and take the road to Choa Saidan Shah.
The vast plateau has rather sporadic pockets of population, which have possibly helped it retain some of its natural and architectural wonders.
The industrialisation, however, has taken its toll on its resources, with the drop in Katas water levels a well-documented piece of evidence, proving how human greed can destroy our ancestors' legacy.
We almost miss the link road connecting the village of Malot with the main Choa Saidan Shah road, as the signboard is installed on the wrong side of the road.
An old banyan tree standing by the side of a pond is not an unusual sight in Potohar.
We see a few people walking by the road and, to be absolutely sure, we halt to confirm the directions.
They ask us for a lift to a factory en-route instead. They tell us that they are recent graduates appearing in an entry test at the factory and are already running late. Local transportation is infrequent in the area so we take them along.
Adil is very happy to find people to talk to. Soon he gets their complete bio-datas. The graduates tell him that they are from Rawalpindi, but are ready to move to the factory if they find a decent job.
We drop them off in front of the cement factory and wish them good luck.
The Temples of Malot
Malot was a walled hamlet back in the day. Raja Mal Khan — a convert prince (son of Janjua King Raja Dhrupet Dev) — was an ambitious ruler who secured neighbouring areas after his succession and made Malot his capital.
He ordered the construction of a fort around the village, which remained at the centre of power for the Janjua dynasty for centuries to come.
But today the only site worth visiting from the heydays of Malot are the temples on top of a hill near the village.
After stopping at multiple places to confirm the route, we finally reach sleepy Malot. The road goes through the heart of the village, with houses on the left and a pond with an old banyan tree standing on the right.
I see a lot of families waiting for public transport. Finally, we spot two towers on the top of a hill, just a few hundred metres out of the village.
The road gets narrower and is surrounded by thorny shrubs. Adil makes a face as they leaves marks on the exterior of his car. I am too excited by the otherworldly scene to notice his protest.
When there is no way further for the car, I take a walk, making my way through the shrubs.
The temples in Malot are in dire need of repairs
The temples in Malot are built using red sandstone and follow Kashmiri traditions.
The Malot Temple, along with many others in the area, is heavily influenced by Kashmiri traditions in architecture, and bears striking similarities to iconic temples in Kashmir.
The temple was constructed using red sandstone and still retains its royal look despite the ravages of time and neglect. The striking feature of the facade is its circular pillars, and the height of the arches, which gives visitors standing at ground level a feel of grandeur.
The temples do not have any idols or shivlings inside now.
The inside chamber is devoid of any embellishments now but there are signs of a fire lit recently — most probably by some gypsies as the temple does not seem to attract any visitors apart from a wandering herd or two.
The building was last used by Sikhs as a watch tower during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh.
Katas Raj
The emerald pond at Katas has a mystical aura around it, serving as a perfect refuge for hermits seeking salvation.
Over the centuries, it has attracted pagans, Buddhists and Hindus alike, giving way to legends and a host of worshipping places.
According to one popular legend, upon the demise of his beloved Sati, Lord Shiva grieved so much that his tears formed two pools; one in Katas and the other in Pushkara in Ajmer.
Hence, the holy pond is revered by the followers of Shiva, believing it to have healing powers.
Over the centuries, buildings have been added around the pond.
Temples were vandalised and frescoes scratched away and now they are far from their former glory.
On a bright day, I only find a few kids lazing around the mystical pond. The site attracts occasional visitors during regular days but overflows with pilgrims during the Maha Shivratri festival.
They perform their rituals in temples and bathe in the pond, seeking salvation.
On a regular day in Katas, one will find only occasional visitors.
.
FAROOQ SOOMRO
The scenic landscape makes driving through Potohar a memorable experience.
"Are you sure there is something worth visiting in this direction?" he asks.
"Does it matter if the road remains as scenic?" I reply, my eyes fixed on an old banyan tree in the distance.
Potohar — The land of ancient relics
Soon I arrive in the Potohar region; the first landmark on our agenda is the temple in Malot. We turn left from Kalar Kahar Exchange on the motorway and take the road to Choa Saidan Shah.
The vast plateau has rather sporadic pockets of population, which have possibly helped it retain some of its natural and architectural wonders.
The industrialisation, however, has taken its toll on its resources, with the drop in Katas water levels a well-documented piece of evidence, proving how human greed can destroy our ancestors' legacy.
We almost miss the link road connecting the village of Malot with the main Choa Saidan Shah road, as the signboard is installed on the wrong side of the road.
An old banyan tree standing by the side of a pond is not an unusual sight in Potohar.
We see a few people walking by the road and, to be absolutely sure, we halt to confirm the directions.
They ask us for a lift to a factory en-route instead. They tell us that they are recent graduates appearing in an entry test at the factory and are already running late. Local transportation is infrequent in the area so we take them along.
Adil is very happy to find people to talk to. Soon he gets their complete bio-datas. The graduates tell him that they are from Rawalpindi, but are ready to move to the factory if they find a decent job.
We drop them off in front of the cement factory and wish them good luck.
The Temples of Malot
Malot was a walled hamlet back in the day. Raja Mal Khan — a convert prince (son of Janjua King Raja Dhrupet Dev) — was an ambitious ruler who secured neighbouring areas after his succession and made Malot his capital.
He ordered the construction of a fort around the village, which remained at the centre of power for the Janjua dynasty for centuries to come.
But today the only site worth visiting from the heydays of Malot are the temples on top of a hill near the village.
After stopping at multiple places to confirm the route, we finally reach sleepy Malot. The road goes through the heart of the village, with houses on the left and a pond with an old banyan tree standing on the right.
I see a lot of families waiting for public transport. Finally, we spot two towers on the top of a hill, just a few hundred metres out of the village.
The road gets narrower and is surrounded by thorny shrubs. Adil makes a face as they leaves marks on the exterior of his car. I am too excited by the otherworldly scene to notice his protest.
When there is no way further for the car, I take a walk, making my way through the shrubs.
The temples in Malot are in dire need of repairs
The temples in Malot are built using red sandstone and follow Kashmiri traditions.
The Malot Temple, along with many others in the area, is heavily influenced by Kashmiri traditions in architecture, and bears striking similarities to iconic temples in Kashmir.
The temple was constructed using red sandstone and still retains its royal look despite the ravages of time and neglect. The striking feature of the facade is its circular pillars, and the height of the arches, which gives visitors standing at ground level a feel of grandeur.
The temples do not have any idols or shivlings inside now.
The inside chamber is devoid of any embellishments now but there are signs of a fire lit recently — most probably by some gypsies as the temple does not seem to attract any visitors apart from a wandering herd or two.
The building was last used by Sikhs as a watch tower during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh.
Katas Raj
The emerald pond at Katas has a mystical aura around it, serving as a perfect refuge for hermits seeking salvation.
Over the centuries, it has attracted pagans, Buddhists and Hindus alike, giving way to legends and a host of worshipping places.
According to one popular legend, upon the demise of his beloved Sati, Lord Shiva grieved so much that his tears formed two pools; one in Katas and the other in Pushkara in Ajmer.
Hence, the holy pond is revered by the followers of Shiva, believing it to have healing powers.
Over the centuries, buildings have been added around the pond.
Temples were vandalised and frescoes scratched away and now they are far from their former glory.
On a bright day, I only find a few kids lazing around the mystical pond. The site attracts occasional visitors during regular days but overflows with pilgrims during the Maha Shivratri festival.
They perform their rituals in temples and bathe in the pond, seeking salvation.
On a regular day in Katas, one will find only occasional visitors.
.