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How China’s moves to balance African trade are being driven by a taste for avocado
- The avocado has caught on among the Chinese middle-class, good news for Beijing’s aims to import US$300 billion in African farm produce by 2025
- Tanzania has joined Kenya in exporting the super fruit to China, with South Africa also looking for market access
Jevans Nyabiage
Published: 10:00pm, 3 Dec, 2022
After more than two decades of massive mining and infrastructure projects, Chinese diplomacy in Africa is being shaped by a new strategy – with the avocado at its centre.
Avocados are increasingly popular among China’s new health-conscious middle class, with trendy chefs now adding the “butter fruit” to many dishes.
That is good news for China, as it seeks to recalibrate African trade where it has long recorded a surplus while also diversifying from Latin America into other source markets for the super fruit.
Total trade with Africa hit a record US$254 billion in 2021, but most of it was in China’s favour – as it had been since 2012. China mostly imports natural resources such as crude oil, copper, cobalt and iron ore for its industries while Africa buys from China finished products such as machinery, electronics and textiles.
African leaders have for years urged Beijing to act on the deficit, especially as many countries need to pay off debts worth millions of dollars, a major part of it owed to China for its Belt and Road Initiative infrastructure loans.
Beijing has shown it is keen to address the imbalance, with President Xi Jinping last year promising to import US$300 billion of African agricultural produce by 2025.
Following Kenya in July, Tanzania last month became the second African nation to export fresh avocados to China – under a deal signed during President Samia Suluhu Hassan’s November 2-4 state visit to Beijing.
Chinese President Xi Jinping and Tanzanian President Samia Suluhu Hassan in Beijing. Photo: Xinhua
Kenya had in 2019 been granted market access for frozen avocados, but this was restrictive as most farmers could not afford freezing equipment. The deal was renegotiated early this year to allow in the fresh variety.
South Africa is another African nation looking to export avocados to China.
Beijing’s ambassador to South Africa, Chen Xiaodong, has said China is committed to imports worth US$100 billion from South Africa by 2025, focusing on “more high-quality products, including avocados”.
South Africa is China’s key source market for fruit such as lemons, grapefruit, oranges and soft citrus. Mozambique and Zimbabwe are also lobbying to export avocados to China.
An interest in the avocado’s health benefits has fuelled the fruit’s growing popularity in China, where it was largely unknown less than a decade back.
In 2010, China imported only 2 tonnes of avocado, according to Hannah Ryder, chief executive officer of Development Reimagined, a Beijing-based consultancy.
By 2017, the volume had grown to 32,140 tonnes, an increase of about 16,000 times in seven years, before hitting 43,860 tonnes in 2018 – with an import value of US$133.38 million.
After a dip in 2019 and 2020 caused by Covid-19 curbs, Chinese imports of the fruit rose again to 41,374 tonnes in 2021, according to US data.
Ryder said avocados from the Philippines and New Zealand were pricier and therefore China imported mainly from Chile, Peru and Mexico. However, China’s “[import] diversification drive and African demands can explain why it is also focusing on East Africa for avocados”, she said.
Green Gold: What you need to know about avocado from Tanzanian soil
During a recent historic State visit to China by President @SuluhuSamia, #Tanzania & #China signed a Protocol of Phytosanitary Requirements for the Export of Fresh Avocado from to China.@MbelwaK @ChineseEmbTZ pic.twitter.com/LVeWHHrPF4
— Daily News Tanzania (@dailynewstz) November 26, 2022
Kenyan Hass avocados were also different from the South American varieties, she said. “Hass avocados have a richer, nuttier flavour and softer ‘meat’. They also have a longer shelf life and are better for culinary purposes.”
Yun Sun, head of the Stimson Centre’s China programme in Washington, said the Chinese were returning to tradition when it came to trade with Africa.
“China is trying to boost agricultural trade with Africa, which represents a return to the traditional after the efforts to boost industrialisation and hard infrastructure of African countries,” Sun said.
“It is a recognition of the type of mutual complementarity between China and Africa.”
But Sun also sees a potential problem with this approach, saying the avocado is famous for its negative impact on the environment. “China itself has criticised the US for consuming too much avocado and destroying the environment in Mexico,” she noted.
Avocado trees require a lot of water to produce – about 70 litres (1.8 pints) per fruit according to some studies – and have been blamed for biodiversity loss as farmland is used to cultivate the more lucrative crop.
Charles Robertson, global chief economist at investment bank Renaissance Capital, said importing more food products from Africa was part of China’s attempt to reduce the hugely unequal trading relationship.
African avocados on display at a an import expo in Shanghai. Photo: Xinhua
China’s exports to Africa in the 12 months to October totalled US$163 billion, while imports were US$120 billion, Robertson said, citing official data.
“Buying avocados will make [only] a little dent in China’s huge trade surplus, but every little gain helps,” Robertson said.
China also recently waived tariffs on 98 per cent of taxable items from dozens of least-developed countries (LDCs), most of them in Africa.
The move is in line with Xi’s promise at last year’s Forum on China–Africa Cooperation (FOCAC), to open up “green lanes” for African agricultural products, speed up inspection and quarantine, and widen the tariff-free items basket, so that imports hit US$300 billion by 2025.
“Avocados are in high demand in China and need a specific subtropical environment and soil quality to develop the characteristics prized by consumers,” said Carlos Lopes, professor at the University of Cape Town’s Mandela School of Public Governance and a former executive secretary of the UN Economic Commission for Africa.
Lopes said South Africa was traditionally a very efficient fresh produce exporter and its expertise was being used elsewhere in Africa.
Lopes said South Africa was traditionally a very efficient fresh produce exporter and its expertise was being used elsewhere in Africa.
China is also keen to import soybean, sesame seeds, chilli peppers, cashew nuts and spices from Africa. “[These] are in high – fairly consistent – demand in the Chinese market and therefore easier to find active buyers for right now,” Ryder at Development Reimagined said.
Ryder said Sudan, South Africa, and Ethiopia had been the top African agricultural exporters to China for the past five years, and some of the most popular items were oleaginous fruit, coffee, ground nut, molluscs and frozen fish.
“So, diversification is happening with the new products,” she said.
Overall, China has an explicit policy to diversify food imports for “food security”, so focusing on Africa fits into that plan.
China imported a record US$5 billion worth of African farm produce in 2021, an increase of more than 18 per cent from the previous year, according to official Chinese data. However, Africa still accounts for only 3 per cent of China’s total agricultural imports.
China’s demanding food safety protocol is one hurdle for African exporters, along with many tariff and non-tariff barriers that Beijing prefers to negotiate on a country-by-country basis. Observers also say African countries are not bringing sufficiently diverse and competitive products to the table.
#FOCAC
Features of #ChinaAfrica relationship and cooperation: sincere friendship and equality, win-win for mutual benefit and common development, fairness and justice, and progress with the times and openness and inclusiveness.
pic.twitter.com/NC5fHBtqrr
— Chinese Embassy in Zimbabwe (@ChineseZimbabwe) November 30, 2021
African nations have long pushed for China to do more to address the overall trade imbalance, but action has come decades after the first promises were made.
In 2003, during the second FOCAC meetings, China committed to “expand market access to African products”, and then at the 2006 forum offered zero-tax access for 95 per cent of products from 33 LDCs in Africa, Ryder said.
Encouraging African agricultural products to enter the Chinese market was first mentioned in the FOCAC 5 Action Plan of 2012, she added.
“It’s really since 2015 that the policy has moved significantly in terms of implementation. There are now in principle over 350 kinds of agricultural products from African countries that can be exported to China.”
Jevans Nyabiage
Kenyan journalist Jevans Nyabiage is South China Morning Post's first Africa correspondent. Based in Nairobi, Jevans keeps an eye on China-Africa relations and also Chinese investments, ranging from infrastructure to energy and metal, on the continent.