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A festival of fire and ice
- Temperatures that dip well below freezing point, threat of snowy landslides blocking roads and a very long journey.
Temperatures that dip well below freezing point, threat of snowy landslides blocking roads and a very long journey did not deter travel photographer Danial Shah from making his way to Chitral last year to conduct a photography workshop for the Kalasha youth.
In doing so, he also got a first-hand look at the Kalasha’s rarely-witnessed and most ‘secretive’ winter festival: Chamos.
Held in mid-December, it signals the arrival of winter and the birth of a new year
Text by Madeeha Syed | Photographs by Danial Shah
- There is always time for portraits: the many faces of the Kalasha youth
Also known as the ‘black kafirs,’ the Kalasha are one of the last remaining pagan cultures in South Asia. They occupy three distinct valleys: Rumbur, Brumbret and the Birir valley near Chitral. Collectively, they form what is known as the Kalasha Desh. They have a festival for every season, the most popular with tourists being Chilum Joshi — the spring festival.
Their biggest and most important festival, however, is the Chamos, the winter festival that takes place during the winter solstice when the sun is at its greatest distance from the equatorial center. And because of how incredibly hard it is to reach the valley in winter, the festival is rarely ever witnessed by an outsider.
There is always time for portraits: the many faces of the Kalasha youth
According to reports, it’s when one of their gods, Balomain, passes through the valleys and collects prayers for protection. The prayers are then carried by Balomain back to a mythical land of origin for the Kalasha, called the Tsiam.
Danial had previously only attended Chilum Joshi, which lasts for four to five days. Chamos goes on for a little over two weeks. “This one seemed more intimate and for the community,” he said. “The other festival was more like a show for the public.”
- There is always time for portraits: the many faces of the Kalasha youth
Children crush coal to make ink with which they decorate the main temple. They draw what they know: stick figures of people and animals. They also carry walnut bread baked exclusively for the occasion to relatives in nearby villages. “What shocked me was that I thought the festival was held during the day, but there’s a lot that happens in the evening,” related Danial. “Baking the walnut bread is an activity that takes place exclusively in the evening by the women whereas the men make toys from dough and bake them over the fire.”
Right before the festival begins an intricate tower made from juniper twigs is made and placed inside the temple. The man who makes the structure says a prayer and then sets the tower alight. No one is allowed to look at it while it is burning. “This is to avoid evil spirits coming into that room while local families are communicating with their ancestral spirits,” says Danial. While the tower burns, the Kalasha gather in another room and burn juniper twigs while praying for the deceased.
- There is always time for portraits: the many faces of the Kalasha youth
Prayers aren’t the only thing that dead ancestors are offered. “People sent food from all over the village,” relates Danial, “so the spirits can share their food.” It’s stored in a room at the temple and the understanding is that the spirits are consuming it while the twigs are burning. When they stop, it’s time for the humans to feast.
After that there is drinking and dancing that lasts throughout the night.
There is a day event in which men and women gather in the main ground. “This is the one that’s attended by the most number of people,” explains Danial. “Invitations are sent out in advance and around 300-400 people show up for it.”
- While some women carried dolls wrapped like babies, this one brought a teddy bear and grandma is delighted!
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