Nanga Parbat attracts winter climbers

[RescueRanger]

Nanga Parbat attracts winter climbers
Jamal Shahid
Updated 36 minutes ago

Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world, is seen from Karakorum Highway. — Photo by Reuters

ISLAMABAD: Russians, Poles, Italians, French and for the first time Iranian climbers are set to attempt on Nanga Parbat in the current winter season.
After the government of China denied permit to a three-member European expedition to climb K2 from the Chinese side, the focus this winter has shifted to Nanga Parbat. All climbers stayed away from the Killer Mountain in 2014 after 11 mountaineers were killed by terrorists at a base camp in June 2013.
Nonetheless, the Russians landed in Pakistan in late December and are already on the mountainside, said Karrar Haidri, the member executive council, Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP).
“The Russians will be ascending the mountain on what climbers call the Schell Route. The stretch of this route makes the ascent difficult and harder in the extreme winter conditions. After last year’s unsuccessful attempt, Italian mountaineer Simone Moro said the length of the route made it less feasible for winter climbing where clear weather windows were nonexistent,” he said.
Denied permission to scale K2 from the Chinese side, the mountaineers are now looking to the ‘Killer Mountain’
But four Russians mountaineers - Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval - are planning an alpine style (light) fast ascent on the Schell Route.
Mr Haidri said the team had established a camp at the height of I5, 250 feet and was now taking rest in the base camp about 3,600 metres high.
The Polish and the Italian expedition and the three-member Iranian group intend to climb the 8,026 metres high peak from one of the three faces of the mountain called the Diamer side.
Nanga Parbat winter veteran, Tomek Mackiewicz, is making his 5th attempt, Daniele Nardi, third attempt and Elisabeth Revol second attempt.
The Iranian climbers, Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmoud Hashemi, were expected to arrive in Pakistan to attempt on Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world, for the first time.
After climbing more than 7,200 metres on Schell Route twice, Tomek Mackiewicz has decided to climb from the Diamer face this year. Daniele Nardi and Elisabeth Revol had climbed as high as 6,400 metres in the winter of 2012-13.
The ACP said the climbers would be ascending the unfinished Messner-Hanspeter 2000 line.
The Italian climbers, Daniele Nardi, with his team members Roberto Delle Monache and Federico Santini, plan to climb Mummery Rib that runs through the middle of the Diamir face.
“The climbers are looking at the extreme weather conditions, especially strong winds. Overcoming exhaustion will be their biggest challenge,” said Mr Haidri.

Published in Dawn, January 3rd, 2015

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[cerberus]

Nanga Parbat attracts winter climbers
Jamal Shahid
Updated 36 minutes ago

Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world, is seen from Karakorum Highway. — Photo by Reuters

ISLAMABAD: Russians, Poles, Italians, French and for the first time Iranian climbers are set to attempt on Nanga Parbat in the current winter season.
After the government of China denied permit to a three-member European expedition to climb K2 from the Chinese side, the focus this winter has shifted to Nanga Parbat. All climbers stayed away from the Killer Mountain in 2014 after 11 mountaineers were killed by terrorists at a base camp in June 2013.
Nonetheless, the Russians landed in Pakistan in late December and are already on the mountainside, said Karrar Haidri, the member executive council, Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP).
“The Russians will be ascending the mountain on what climbers call the Schell Route. The stretch of this route makes the ascent difficult and harder in the extreme winter conditions. After last year’s unsuccessful attempt, Italian mountaineer Simone Moro said the length of the route made it less feasible for winter climbing where clear weather windows were nonexistent,” he said.
Denied permission to scale K2 from the Chinese side, the mountaineers are now looking to the ‘Killer Mountain’
But four Russians mountaineers - Nickolay Totmjanin, Valery Shamalo, Serguey Kondrashkin and Victor Koval - are planning an alpine style (light) fast ascent on the Schell Route.
Mr Haidri said the team had established a camp at the height of I5, 250 feet and was now taking rest in the base camp about 3,600 metres high.
The Polish and the Italian expedition and the three-member Iranian group intend to climb the 8,026 metres high peak from one of the three faces of the mountain called the Diamer side.
Nanga Parbat winter veteran, Tomek Mackiewicz, is making his 5th attempt, Daniele Nardi, third attempt and Elisabeth Revol second attempt.
The Iranian climbers, Reza Bahadorani, Iraj Maani and Mahmoud Hashemi, were expected to arrive in Pakistan to attempt on Nanga Parbat, the ninth highest mountain in the world, for the first time.
After climbing more than 7,200 metres on Schell Route twice, Tomek Mackiewicz has decided to climb from the Diamer face this year. Daniele Nardi and Elisabeth Revol had climbed as high as 6,400 metres in the winter of 2012-13.
The ACP said the climbers would be ascending the unfinished Messner-Hanspeter 2000 line.
The Italian climbers, Daniele Nardi, with his team members Roberto Delle Monache and Federico Santini, plan to climb Mummery Rib that runs through the middle of the Diamir face.
“The climbers are looking at the extreme weather conditions, especially strong winds. Overcoming exhaustion will be their biggest challenge,” said Mr Haidri.

Published in Dawn, January 3rd, 2015

On a mobile phone? Get the Dawn Mobile App: Apple Store | Google Play

Well its good way to get killed Freeze to death nevertheless it's not virgin peak any more
Last time I checked Oliver Queen(Arrow) successfully made the Climb in Mid-season finale And thrown down by Ra's-al-gul.

 

[RescueRanger]

Well its good way to get killed Freeze to death nevertheless it's not virgin peak any more
Last time I checked Oliver Queen(Arrow) successfully made the Climb in Mid-season finale And thrown down by Ra's-al-gul.

Oliver Who?

Regarding virgin peak... At an elevation of 8k+ meters the (Diamir) Face "North West" has only been attempted four times since 1895. So your statement regarding the thrill and challenge offered by Nanga Parbat is moot at best. Besides if people want a real challenge Gasherbrum I is also here

 

[Dr. Strangelove]

Oliver Who?

Regarding virgin peak... At an elevation of 8k+ meters the (Diamir) Face "North West" has only been attempted four times since 1895. So your statement regarding the thrill and challenge offered by Nanga Parbat is moot at best. Besides if people want a real challenge Gasherbrum I is also here

its a character from marvels superhero comics Arrow

 

[Tameem]

I Love that Pic

 

[ghazi52]

Year Team Route Summit ? Significance Description

1895 British Mummery Rib N First attempt led by Alfred Mummery. Reached 6100m on the Diamir face. Mummery and two Gurkha companions later died reconnoitring the Rakhiot Face
1930s German N Six German expeditions attempt the maintain, all of which end in failure with dozens dying in avalanches and storms. Among them some of Germany's finest climbers Willi Merkl and Willo Welzenbach perished on the mountain.
1950 British ? N Two more deaths after a three British make a failed winter attempt
1953 German East Ridge Y 1st Ascent First ascent by Austrian Hermann Buhl (member of a Austrian-German team led by Karl Herligkoffer) via the East Ridge from the Rakhiot side. From a Camp at 6900m beneath the Silberzacken (Silver Col) Buhl climbed solo after his companions turned back and summited a staggering 40 hours later. He was forced to bivi at 7900m following the summit before descending next day to 6900m.
1962 German Kinshofer Route Y 2nd ascent & 1st ascent of Diamir Face Second ascent by Toni Kinshofer, Siegfried Löw and Anderl Mannhardt via a buttress to the left side of the Diamir face (the Diamir Flank). The route (the Kinshofer Route) has become the normal route of ascent in recent years
1970 German Messner Route Y 3rd ascent & 1st ascent of Rupal Face Reinhold and Günther Messner make a first ascent the Rupal Face via the SSE Spur and Merkl Couloir. They descended the Mummery Rib on the Diamir Face with Günther being killed by an avalanche on route. Peter Scholz and Felix Kuen summited the day after the Messners and descended back down the Merkl couloir. Previous German expeditions in 1960 and 1968 had tried and failed at this route.
1971 Slovak East Ridge Y 4th ascent & only climbers ever to repeat Buhl's route Ivan Fiala and Michael Orolin summit Nanga Parbat via Buhl's 1953 route while other expedion members climb the SE peak (7600m / 24925 ft) above the Silbersattal and the foresummit (7850m / 25760 ft) above the Bazhin Gap
1976 Austrian Schell Route Y 5th ascent via new route Gimpel, Schauer, Schell and Sturm climb the Rupal face via the Mazeno Col (c.6940m) and Southwest Ridge. The route had been reconnoitred in 1975 by a German expedition however bad weather had stopped them. The Germans returned to the route in 1976 but their attempt was aborted when Wastl Arnold fell to his death.
1978 Czech N/A 1st ascent of north peak A six man team successfully made a 1st ascent of Nanga Parbat's North peak (7816m / 25644 ft)
Austrian Kinshofer Route Y Five climbers made the second ascent of the Kinshofer route
Reinhold Messner Diamir Face Y New route & 1st solo ascent, 1st Alpine style ascent Messner solos the right side of the Diamir Face. This was the first completely solo climb on the mountain (Buhl only soloed the latter part of his climb) and also the first in a modern Alpine style. He previously acclimatised on Ganalo Peak (6600m)
1979 French Mazeno Ridge N First attempt of the Mazeno Ridge. Hampered by bad weather and only managed to climb the first Mazeno peak
1981 Dutch Schell Route Y Only one member, Ronald Naar reached the main summit
Italian Kinshofer Route Y Four camps were made and three climbers made the third ascent via the Kinshofer route.
1982 International Team SE Buttress N New Route to S Summit Siege attempt of the SE Spur, in which five camps were established on the mountain. From camp V four climbers attempted the south summit but three soon gave up leaving only Ueli Buhler to continue alone. With no bivouac gear he was forced to spend an unsheltered night on the mountain before reaching the south summit of Nanga Parbat at noon the following day. He was unable to continue to the main summit and descended to reach camp V by 6pm with seriously frozen hands and feet.
1984 French Kinshofer Route N French climber Lilliane Barrard becomes the first woman to climb Nanga Parbat, accompanied by her husband Maurice Barrard. They climbed the Kinshofer route in an alpine style above camp 1.
1985 Principally Polish SE Buttress Y Completion of the SE Spur to the Main summit Poles Zygmunt Heinrich, Jerzy Kukuczka, Mexican Carlos Carsolio and American Slavomir Lobodzinski climbed Ueli Buhler's SE Spur but finished on the main summit as opposed to the south summit. Kukuczka fell 600m during the descent but was remarkably only stunned. Piotr Kalmus was less fortunate and was struck by an avalanche between camp 1 and 2.
Polish Kinshofer Route Y 1st ladies-only ascent Anna Czerwifiska, Krystyna Palmowska and Wanda Rutkiewicz reached the summit with no porter support
1988 Italian Rakhiot Face N New Route Attempt From an ABC at 4500m six climbers ascended to a buttress at 6500m in ten days fixing 1600m of rope. At that point they gave up because of a strong rise in temperature. Throughout the climb there were great objective dangers with avalanches continuously sweeping the face.
1989-9 Polish Messner Route N 1st winter attempt Maciej Berbeka, Piotr Konopka and Andrzej Osika reached a high point of 6800m but the attempt was abandoned amidst deteriorating weather.
1990 Austrian / Swiss Kinshofer Route Y 1st ski descent Austrian Hans Kammerlander and Swiss Diego Wellig reached the summit then, from the North summit 100m below the main summit, skiied back down to base camp. Sections needed to rappelled or rock climbed down. Skiing was very difficult because of the couloir's steepness and the intermittent rock bands.
1990-1 Anglo-Polish Messner Route N Winter attempt Amidst increasing strong winds and deteriorating weather the team reached a high point of 6600m. During the attempt the base was flattened by a pressure wave of an avalanche high on the Rupal wall. Fortunately no one was hurt.
1992 - Mazeno Ridge N Doug Scott attempts Nanga Parbat via the Mazeno Ridge. Fails but climbs three Mazeno peaks
1995 International Mazeno Ridge N Wojciech Kurtyka (Polish), Andrew Lock (Australian) and Rick Allen (UK) managed to traverse the first three Mazeno peaks but then decided to retreat.
1996 Japanese Route Japanese Route Y North Face new route A Japanese team established a direct route to the Silbersattel upon where they continued to the summit via a similar route as Hermann Buhl's.
Krzysztof Wielicki Kinshofer Route Y 1st Solo ascent of the route Krzysztof Wielicki made the first solo ascent of the Kinshofer Route and became the fifth man to summit all the 8000 mountains. He climbed continuous for 48 hours then descended 5800m the same day as summiting.
British Kinshofer Route N Winter attempt Reached a point below 6000m then retreated.
Polish Kinshofer Route N Winter attempt Polish expedition to the Diamir Face come very close to making the first ascent in winter of any 8000m mountain in Pakistan. Krzysztof Pankiewiez and Zbigniew Trzmiel retreat just 250 meters below the summit with severe frostbite Unfortunately the team needed evacuating from BC by helicopter due to frostbite injuries.
2000 German NE Face N New Route to 7500m Reinhold Messner, Hubert Messner, Hanspete Eisendle, Wolfgang Tomaseth climbed to 7500m where the route met with the 1978 Czech route at 7500m but went no further due to poor snow conditions.
2003 Jean Christophe Lafaille Tom and Martina Route Y New Route Jean Christophe Lafaille climbs a new route on the Diamir Face via a spur to the left of the Kinshofer route that meets Kinshofer two thirds up. For the first part of the climb Lafaille has joined by Simone Moro but descended on route to camp 4 at 7400m due to acclimatisation difficulties. For the latter half of the climb Lafaille was joined by Ed Viesturs who had climbed the Kinshofer route and rendezvoused at camp 3
2004 Steve House / Bruce Miller Direct SE Face N New Route Attempt Attempted a new route on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat reaching c.7550m before House's altitude sickness forced a retreat.
Doug Chabot / Steve Swenson Mazeno Ridge N Traversed all the Mazeno peaks but then descended the Schell Route
2005 Korean Messner Route Y 2nd Ascent of Messner Route Koreans make a south-north traverse ascending via the Messner route on the Rupal Face and then descending the Kinshofer Route on the Diamir Face
Tomaž Humar New route on Rupal Face N New Route Attempt Pakistani military helicopters rescue renowned Slovenian mountaineer Tomaž Humar, stuck under a narrow ice ledge at 5900m for six days having descended from 6300m. One of the few successful rescues carried out at such high altitude
American Central Pillar Y New Route Vince Anderson and Steve House climb the Central Pillar of the Rupal Face Alpine-style in six days. They were later award that Piet-Dor. More direct than the Messner's route the climb has been heralded as one of the greatest ascents of all time
2006-7 José Antonio Delgado Sucre ? Y José Antonio Delgado Sucre, an elite high altitude climber from Venezuela, dies a few days after making the summit, where he was caught by bad weather for 6 straight days and was not able to make his way down. He was the only Venezuelan climber, and one of the few Latin Americans, to have summited five eight-thousanders.
Polish Schell Route N Winter attempt Polish winter attempt of the Schell Route fails

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