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COMMENT: Impressions of China Shaukat Qadir
I also found it difficult to make the young researchers comprehend the fact that all soldiers, irrespective of rank, could exercise initiative. The thought of anyone below the rank of a captain being allowed to do so seemed almost blasphemous to them
China is a country I have always enjoyed visiting. The people are friendly and the environment welcoming; what is more, it is a vibrant economy and a future power to contend with.
This May I again had occasion to go there for a few lectures and discussions. Some things were different this time: first, my wife was accompanying me on her maiden visit to this fascinating country; and second, the place that I was going to was Lanzhou, capital of the Gansu province, in North-West China, where I had never been before. We were also to spend a few days in the city of Xian, where the 2200-year-old mausoleum, called Soldiers and Horses, now designated the eighth wonder of the world, is located; and a few days in Urumqi, which I saw after a few decades.
In Beijing or along the east coast, most cities one visits are metropolises. And while sightseeing and entertainment are on the schedule, these are strictly adhered to. While the hospitality is still palpable, there is an impression of being on a schedule. This was the first difference I noticed on this visit: everything was flexible, to suit our convenience. When I was busy, my wife was escorted wherever she wanted to go, all expenses paid. I even received a generous daily allowance which sufficed for my wifes shopping; that was unusual!
Our discussions went well. Everyone was interested in discussing the future role of the US, developments in India and, of course, terrorism and South Asia. One interesting aspect was that while there was considerable concern about the predominantly Muslim Uighurs in north-west China, particularly in Xinjiang where there has been ethnic unrest, there was particular interest in whether Uighurs, a number of which migrated to Pakistan, are involved in terrorism. Not having adverted to this aspect before, I responded in the negative, but have discovered, after my return, that there are almost one thousand Uighurs involved with terrorism in Pakistan.
What was particularly interesting was the fact that in north-west China, no one was particularly worried about the Uighurs! The impression in the region was that they are happily settled; an obviously erroneous conclusion in light of the events of early July this year. Despite improved economic prosperity, the Uighurs apparently still resent the dominance of the minority Hans, and the preference accorded to them by the government. This trouble has a long history.
One of the fascinating aspects of China is the people. Each visit shows distinct progress and yet, in some things, they seem to make haste very slowly.
The phenomenon is difficult to explain. Perhaps it is best to draw a parallel with the erstwhile USSR: when Mikhail Gorbachev decided to open up to the western world, in the hope of infusing new life into the Communist USSR, there were two buzzwords he coined: Glasnost and Perestroika.
While Glasnost referred to the mental awakening of the people, Perestroika referred to the socio-economic reconstruction essential to give the people equal opportunities alongside those of developed countries. Quite obviously, it was impossible for Perestroika to keep pace with Glasnost; and the dissatisfaction of the people of the USSR mounted. That is why many Russians hold Gorbachev responsible for the breakup of the Soviet Union, even though it is more likely that he merely hastened the inevitable.
Apparently, the Chinese government, more conscious of the possibly disastrous effect of the mismatch in timing of the two, decided that mental awareness must be contained to remain in pace with its Perestroika. Consequently, while I witness an increased awareness on each visit, it is very slow and, in some aspects, discipline is very rigid.
I noticed, for example, that before any restaurant opened for the day, the entire staff lined up outside for a while, before being marched in, almost as a military contingent. On inquiry, I learnt that they received daily instructions from the chef before each meal was served.
I also found it difficult to make the young researchers comprehend the fact that all soldiers, irrespective of rank, could exercise initiative. The thought of anyone below the rank of a captain being allowed to do so seemed almost blasphemous to them.
Another noticeable aspect is that the concept of the historical supremacy of the Chinese race and the primacy of the desire to return to Greater China, in all its lost glory, including all territories that were part of the original empire, is bred into all educated ethnic Chinese. This is the ultimate goal that all Chinese must strive for, but patiently; everything will fall into place at the right time. Meanwhile, build up the Chinese nation to achieve that end.
It is in this context that we should view incidents like Tiananmen Square or the recent events in Urumqi. Anyone attempting to hinder national progress towards the ultimate end deserves elimination. From their point of view, a few thousand dead is no great price for national progress.
Modern adherents of human rights and liberty may decry this concept, but hasnt all history witnessed the same? What caused the American Civil War, or the rise of Napoleon, or for that matter Hitler? Even the infamous Patriot Act in the United States after 9/11 trampled on individual rights in the supposed greater national interest.
I see China and its people in search of what they think is their rightful place in the comity of nations and waiting to grant liberty to their people once this has been achieved. Till then, slow Glasnost to keep pace with Perestroika. A fascinating country and a fascinating people.
This article is a modified version of one originally written for the daily National. He is also former vice president and founder of the Islamabad Policy Research Institute (IPRI)
I also found it difficult to make the young researchers comprehend the fact that all soldiers, irrespective of rank, could exercise initiative. The thought of anyone below the rank of a captain being allowed to do so seemed almost blasphemous to them
China is a country I have always enjoyed visiting. The people are friendly and the environment welcoming; what is more, it is a vibrant economy and a future power to contend with.
This May I again had occasion to go there for a few lectures and discussions. Some things were different this time: first, my wife was accompanying me on her maiden visit to this fascinating country; and second, the place that I was going to was Lanzhou, capital of the Gansu province, in North-West China, where I had never been before. We were also to spend a few days in the city of Xian, where the 2200-year-old mausoleum, called Soldiers and Horses, now designated the eighth wonder of the world, is located; and a few days in Urumqi, which I saw after a few decades.
In Beijing or along the east coast, most cities one visits are metropolises. And while sightseeing and entertainment are on the schedule, these are strictly adhered to. While the hospitality is still palpable, there is an impression of being on a schedule. This was the first difference I noticed on this visit: everything was flexible, to suit our convenience. When I was busy, my wife was escorted wherever she wanted to go, all expenses paid. I even received a generous daily allowance which sufficed for my wifes shopping; that was unusual!
Our discussions went well. Everyone was interested in discussing the future role of the US, developments in India and, of course, terrorism and South Asia. One interesting aspect was that while there was considerable concern about the predominantly Muslim Uighurs in north-west China, particularly in Xinjiang where there has been ethnic unrest, there was particular interest in whether Uighurs, a number of which migrated to Pakistan, are involved in terrorism. Not having adverted to this aspect before, I responded in the negative, but have discovered, after my return, that there are almost one thousand Uighurs involved with terrorism in Pakistan.
What was particularly interesting was the fact that in north-west China, no one was particularly worried about the Uighurs! The impression in the region was that they are happily settled; an obviously erroneous conclusion in light of the events of early July this year. Despite improved economic prosperity, the Uighurs apparently still resent the dominance of the minority Hans, and the preference accorded to them by the government. This trouble has a long history.
One of the fascinating aspects of China is the people. Each visit shows distinct progress and yet, in some things, they seem to make haste very slowly.
The phenomenon is difficult to explain. Perhaps it is best to draw a parallel with the erstwhile USSR: when Mikhail Gorbachev decided to open up to the western world, in the hope of infusing new life into the Communist USSR, there were two buzzwords he coined: Glasnost and Perestroika.
While Glasnost referred to the mental awakening of the people, Perestroika referred to the socio-economic reconstruction essential to give the people equal opportunities alongside those of developed countries. Quite obviously, it was impossible for Perestroika to keep pace with Glasnost; and the dissatisfaction of the people of the USSR mounted. That is why many Russians hold Gorbachev responsible for the breakup of the Soviet Union, even though it is more likely that he merely hastened the inevitable.
Apparently, the Chinese government, more conscious of the possibly disastrous effect of the mismatch in timing of the two, decided that mental awareness must be contained to remain in pace with its Perestroika. Consequently, while I witness an increased awareness on each visit, it is very slow and, in some aspects, discipline is very rigid.
I noticed, for example, that before any restaurant opened for the day, the entire staff lined up outside for a while, before being marched in, almost as a military contingent. On inquiry, I learnt that they received daily instructions from the chef before each meal was served.
I also found it difficult to make the young researchers comprehend the fact that all soldiers, irrespective of rank, could exercise initiative. The thought of anyone below the rank of a captain being allowed to do so seemed almost blasphemous to them.
Another noticeable aspect is that the concept of the historical supremacy of the Chinese race and the primacy of the desire to return to Greater China, in all its lost glory, including all territories that were part of the original empire, is bred into all educated ethnic Chinese. This is the ultimate goal that all Chinese must strive for, but patiently; everything will fall into place at the right time. Meanwhile, build up the Chinese nation to achieve that end.
It is in this context that we should view incidents like Tiananmen Square or the recent events in Urumqi. Anyone attempting to hinder national progress towards the ultimate end deserves elimination. From their point of view, a few thousand dead is no great price for national progress.
Modern adherents of human rights and liberty may decry this concept, but hasnt all history witnessed the same? What caused the American Civil War, or the rise of Napoleon, or for that matter Hitler? Even the infamous Patriot Act in the United States after 9/11 trampled on individual rights in the supposed greater national interest.
I see China and its people in search of what they think is their rightful place in the comity of nations and waiting to grant liberty to their people once this has been achieved. Till then, slow Glasnost to keep pace with Perestroika. A fascinating country and a fascinating people.
This article is a modified version of one originally written for the daily National. He is also former vice president and founder of the Islamabad Policy Research Institute (IPRI)
