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The best way to backpack in Pakistan, through the eyes of a foreigner
By Will Hatton Published: March 1, 2017
3 CommentsPrintEmail
In some parts of Pakistan, especially Swat, it pays to dress a little more conservatively. PHOTO: WILL HATTON.
Backpacking in Pakistan is a one of a kind adventure; this is a country which will raise many an eyebrow and steal many a heart. The only danger with backpacking in Pakistan is not wanting to leave.
Before I went backpacking in Pakistan, I was unsure what to expect. Pakistan travel advice from my government is basically one gigantic red X. The media has painted the country in an unfortunate light, a fact most Pakistanis are painfully aware of. Wherever I went, I was greeted by friendly faces and incredibly helpful people. Combine that with relatively cheap travel costs, plentiful treks and truly stunning mountains and you have one hell of a great backpacking destination.
The security situation in Pakistan is currently under control and, with the exception of the Afghanistan border regions; most of the country is perfectly safe to visit. On some occasions, you will be assigned a free police escort – read about my experience trekking with mine – to keep an eye on you but these guys are almost always super friendly and mean well.
Baba laughing at a joke nobody else understood.
Sometimes, when arriving into a new town or area, the police will insist that you stay in a certain hotel. Hotels in Pakistan are relatively expensive and to be avoided if possible; I couch-surfed my way around the country, with the help of friends from The Karakoram Club, and had a blast.
The Pakistani people are very generous and you will be plied with ridiculous amounts of free food and chai. The friends I made in Pakistan remain some of the best I have made on this trip; Pakistanis have a great sense of humour and many of them are real adventure travel enthusiasts.
Check out this video from my first trip (in February 2016) backpacking in Pakistan:
Backpacking Pakistan travel costs
Visa requirements for Pakistan
If there’s one thing that sucks about Pakistan, it’s getting hold of a visa. For most nationalities, visas can only be obtained from the embassy within your country of origin and this means that you can’t get a visa on the road. Visas are pretty expensive, for British nationals they are a whopping £100, and before you can even apply you need to get a letter of invitation (LOI) from a Pakistani tour company stating that, basically, they will accept responsibility for you. There are various Pakistani companies online offering this service and quite a few of them are very expensive, I have partnered with super-knowledgeable, super-fast Kamal who can hook you up; contact him through the form on this page.
Transport in Pakistan
There is a huge variety in transport options in Pakistan; the local Northern Areas Transport Corporation (NATCO) buses are usually the best value for money but if you want to splash out on something more comfortable go with Daewoo – I got a look inside one of the Daewoo minibuses and it was ridiculously plush. Hitchhiking in Pakistan is possible but you will encounter problems at police checkpoints. Whenever you are travelling any distance in Pakistan, you should have multiple photocopies of your passport and visa to hand over at checkpoints – on one journey, from Islamabad to Gilgit, I had to hand over a total of 11 photocopies. If you do not have the photocopies at the checkpoint, this will cause delays. Sometimes, you may need to hire a car and driver to explore an area; cars are expensive in Pakistan. To rent a car and driver for a whole day of gallivanting in Hunza, or to drive up to the China border area, costs around fifty to eighty dollars. I strongly recommend buying or renting a motorbike (Rs1,500 a day – possible from Islamabad) to explore the country. Flights in Pakistan are relatively cheap – around 80 dollars from Islamabad to Gilgit – and a good way to skip some truly horrific bus journeys.
Accommodation in Pakistan
With a few exceptions, much of the accommodation in Pakistan is fairly expensive and not particularly well set up for budget backpackers. On some occasions, the police would take me directly to a hotel and insist I stayed there; you can sometimes get out of this but other times you cannot. There are some backpacker friendly accommodations around and, during low-season anyway, it’s possible to score a room for around Rs500 (five dollars). I recommend Couchsurfing in Pakistan wherever possible – you’ll meet some amazing people – and bringing a tent for trekking.
Activities in Pakistan
The entrance to Pakistan’s most breath-taking sites, the mountains, is free. If you want to visit attractions in the cities then it usually costs foreigners Rs250 to get in. For some treks, you may need to hire a trekking guide but be sure to haggle; a fair rate for a day’s work in Pakistan is probably around Rs500 to Rs1500 a day depending on the area. I did not have to hire a trekking guide as I was lucky enough to make friends with locals along the way who showed me around for free.
Solo travel versus group tours in Pakistan
Travelling solo in Pakistan is an incredible experience but for many, it can be daunting. To help open up Pakistan, I have launched Broke Backpacker Adventure Tours to help adventurers get the most out of this amazing region.
Staying connected in Pakistan
Pakistan is a great place to unplug… partly because there’s very little Wi-Fi around and frequent power cuts in many of the mountain towns. Your best bet for staying connected is to buy a Pakistani sim card, I recommend Zong, and load it with as much data as possible. Telenor works best in the Upper Hunza area.
The guys making use of a rare spot of signal.
Backpacking Pakistan travel guide – Where to go
Lahore
The Paris of Pakistan and the starting point for many a Pakistan backpacking adventure, Lahore is one of my favourite cities in the world. The colours, the sounds, the smells, the vibrant-in-your-face-ness of it all is best experienced on the back of a motorbike; make friends with some locals and get them to show you around! Be sure to visit Badshahi Mosque; One of the most impressive sites in Lahore and the seventh largest mosque in the world, the courtyard can accommodate 100,000 worshippers and the attached museum contains many holy relics belonging to the Prophet Mohammed (pbuh). The Grand Jamia Mosque is truly stunning. It is a quiet, peaceful place that is lit up at night; I recommend an evening stroll inside. Lahore Fort is impressive and worth a visit if you have time to spare.
The incredible Badshahi Mosque
For a truly unique night out, be sure to track down a Sufi dance ceremony – there is one every Thursday at the shrine of Baba Shah Jamal. Lahore has everything, even underground raves and it’s very own Eiffel tower…
When it comes to finding accommodation in Lahore; it’s easy to find a Couchsurfing host, a friend on The Karakoram Club or you could try your luck with Let’s go to Pakistan; a home-grown Pakistani initiative launched off the back of Humans of New York. Lahore Backpacker Hostel is a friendly enough place where you can crash on the floor for a couple of hundred rupees; bargain hard. From Lahore, you can catch a five hour bus to Islamabad.
Rohtas Fort
This mammoth fortress is between Islamabad and Lahore and it is possible to hitch here in just a couple of hours. I was hoping to camp within the fort grounds but the Ak-wielding security guards point blank refused me despite me trying every trick in the book. Eventually, insisting I would be eaten by wild animals, they pretty much just marched me to the entrance and told me to go back to town. I managed to hitch a lift with a couple of locals who, in normal Pakistani fashion, then insisted on taking me for dinner and dropping me at a guesthouse.
Pakistan travel experiences; watch the sunset from a fort – check!
Islamabad
The capital of Pakistan and a surprisingly clean and beautiful city, Islamabad has a few sites worth visiting but can be happily conquered in just a day. I found a Couchsurfing host with no problems. If you need a hotel, I recommend Harvey Guest House (Rs3,000 with Wi-Fi and breakfast). Centaurous Shopping Mall represents your last chance to stock up on anything you may need in the mountains. If you fly into Islamabad, a taxi from the airport to the main city is Rs800. Just a stone’s throw away from Islamabad is some woody hills and nice picnic spots, best explored with the help of a Couchsurfer and a car…
The hills surrounding Islamabad
From Islamabad, your best bet is to head north. Really, most of Pakistan’s most breath-taking sites and jaw-dropping backpacking treks are in the north and in the summer the south of the country is unbearably hot anyway. From Islamabad, the bus journey to Gilgit takes eighteen hours and costs around Rs1,300. Be sure to have multiple photocopies of your passport and visa and, if possible, get a seat right at the front – the views from The Karakoram Highway are truly stunning.
By Will Hatton Published: March 1, 2017
3 CommentsPrintEmail
In some parts of Pakistan, especially Swat, it pays to dress a little more conservatively. PHOTO: WILL HATTON.
Backpacking in Pakistan is a one of a kind adventure; this is a country which will raise many an eyebrow and steal many a heart. The only danger with backpacking in Pakistan is not wanting to leave.
Before I went backpacking in Pakistan, I was unsure what to expect. Pakistan travel advice from my government is basically one gigantic red X. The media has painted the country in an unfortunate light, a fact most Pakistanis are painfully aware of. Wherever I went, I was greeted by friendly faces and incredibly helpful people. Combine that with relatively cheap travel costs, plentiful treks and truly stunning mountains and you have one hell of a great backpacking destination.
The security situation in Pakistan is currently under control and, with the exception of the Afghanistan border regions; most of the country is perfectly safe to visit. On some occasions, you will be assigned a free police escort – read about my experience trekking with mine – to keep an eye on you but these guys are almost always super friendly and mean well.
Baba laughing at a joke nobody else understood.
Sometimes, when arriving into a new town or area, the police will insist that you stay in a certain hotel. Hotels in Pakistan are relatively expensive and to be avoided if possible; I couch-surfed my way around the country, with the help of friends from The Karakoram Club, and had a blast.
The Pakistani people are very generous and you will be plied with ridiculous amounts of free food and chai. The friends I made in Pakistan remain some of the best I have made on this trip; Pakistanis have a great sense of humour and many of them are real adventure travel enthusiasts.
Check out this video from my first trip (in February 2016) backpacking in Pakistan:
Backpacking Pakistan travel costs
Visa requirements for Pakistan
If there’s one thing that sucks about Pakistan, it’s getting hold of a visa. For most nationalities, visas can only be obtained from the embassy within your country of origin and this means that you can’t get a visa on the road. Visas are pretty expensive, for British nationals they are a whopping £100, and before you can even apply you need to get a letter of invitation (LOI) from a Pakistani tour company stating that, basically, they will accept responsibility for you. There are various Pakistani companies online offering this service and quite a few of them are very expensive, I have partnered with super-knowledgeable, super-fast Kamal who can hook you up; contact him through the form on this page.
Transport in Pakistan
There is a huge variety in transport options in Pakistan; the local Northern Areas Transport Corporation (NATCO) buses are usually the best value for money but if you want to splash out on something more comfortable go with Daewoo – I got a look inside one of the Daewoo minibuses and it was ridiculously plush. Hitchhiking in Pakistan is possible but you will encounter problems at police checkpoints. Whenever you are travelling any distance in Pakistan, you should have multiple photocopies of your passport and visa to hand over at checkpoints – on one journey, from Islamabad to Gilgit, I had to hand over a total of 11 photocopies. If you do not have the photocopies at the checkpoint, this will cause delays. Sometimes, you may need to hire a car and driver to explore an area; cars are expensive in Pakistan. To rent a car and driver for a whole day of gallivanting in Hunza, or to drive up to the China border area, costs around fifty to eighty dollars. I strongly recommend buying or renting a motorbike (Rs1,500 a day – possible from Islamabad) to explore the country. Flights in Pakistan are relatively cheap – around 80 dollars from Islamabad to Gilgit – and a good way to skip some truly horrific bus journeys.
Accommodation in Pakistan
With a few exceptions, much of the accommodation in Pakistan is fairly expensive and not particularly well set up for budget backpackers. On some occasions, the police would take me directly to a hotel and insist I stayed there; you can sometimes get out of this but other times you cannot. There are some backpacker friendly accommodations around and, during low-season anyway, it’s possible to score a room for around Rs500 (five dollars). I recommend Couchsurfing in Pakistan wherever possible – you’ll meet some amazing people – and bringing a tent for trekking.
Activities in Pakistan
The entrance to Pakistan’s most breath-taking sites, the mountains, is free. If you want to visit attractions in the cities then it usually costs foreigners Rs250 to get in. For some treks, you may need to hire a trekking guide but be sure to haggle; a fair rate for a day’s work in Pakistan is probably around Rs500 to Rs1500 a day depending on the area. I did not have to hire a trekking guide as I was lucky enough to make friends with locals along the way who showed me around for free.
Solo travel versus group tours in Pakistan
Travelling solo in Pakistan is an incredible experience but for many, it can be daunting. To help open up Pakistan, I have launched Broke Backpacker Adventure Tours to help adventurers get the most out of this amazing region.
Staying connected in Pakistan
Pakistan is a great place to unplug… partly because there’s very little Wi-Fi around and frequent power cuts in many of the mountain towns. Your best bet for staying connected is to buy a Pakistani sim card, I recommend Zong, and load it with as much data as possible. Telenor works best in the Upper Hunza area.
The guys making use of a rare spot of signal.
Backpacking Pakistan travel guide – Where to go
Lahore
The Paris of Pakistan and the starting point for many a Pakistan backpacking adventure, Lahore is one of my favourite cities in the world. The colours, the sounds, the smells, the vibrant-in-your-face-ness of it all is best experienced on the back of a motorbike; make friends with some locals and get them to show you around! Be sure to visit Badshahi Mosque; One of the most impressive sites in Lahore and the seventh largest mosque in the world, the courtyard can accommodate 100,000 worshippers and the attached museum contains many holy relics belonging to the Prophet Mohammed (pbuh). The Grand Jamia Mosque is truly stunning. It is a quiet, peaceful place that is lit up at night; I recommend an evening stroll inside. Lahore Fort is impressive and worth a visit if you have time to spare.
The incredible Badshahi Mosque
For a truly unique night out, be sure to track down a Sufi dance ceremony – there is one every Thursday at the shrine of Baba Shah Jamal. Lahore has everything, even underground raves and it’s very own Eiffel tower…
When it comes to finding accommodation in Lahore; it’s easy to find a Couchsurfing host, a friend on The Karakoram Club or you could try your luck with Let’s go to Pakistan; a home-grown Pakistani initiative launched off the back of Humans of New York. Lahore Backpacker Hostel is a friendly enough place where you can crash on the floor for a couple of hundred rupees; bargain hard. From Lahore, you can catch a five hour bus to Islamabad.
Rohtas Fort
This mammoth fortress is between Islamabad and Lahore and it is possible to hitch here in just a couple of hours. I was hoping to camp within the fort grounds but the Ak-wielding security guards point blank refused me despite me trying every trick in the book. Eventually, insisting I would be eaten by wild animals, they pretty much just marched me to the entrance and told me to go back to town. I managed to hitch a lift with a couple of locals who, in normal Pakistani fashion, then insisted on taking me for dinner and dropping me at a guesthouse.
Pakistan travel experiences; watch the sunset from a fort – check!
Islamabad
The capital of Pakistan and a surprisingly clean and beautiful city, Islamabad has a few sites worth visiting but can be happily conquered in just a day. I found a Couchsurfing host with no problems. If you need a hotel, I recommend Harvey Guest House (Rs3,000 with Wi-Fi and breakfast). Centaurous Shopping Mall represents your last chance to stock up on anything you may need in the mountains. If you fly into Islamabad, a taxi from the airport to the main city is Rs800. Just a stone’s throw away from Islamabad is some woody hills and nice picnic spots, best explored with the help of a Couchsurfer and a car…
The hills surrounding Islamabad
From Islamabad, your best bet is to head north. Really, most of Pakistan’s most breath-taking sites and jaw-dropping backpacking treks are in the north and in the summer the south of the country is unbearably hot anyway. From Islamabad, the bus journey to Gilgit takes eighteen hours and costs around Rs1,300. Be sure to have multiple photocopies of your passport and visa and, if possible, get a seat right at the front – the views from The Karakoram Highway are truly stunning.