Some would argue that history and the achievement have both been sullied.History has been written. Congratulations to the team and commemorate to the fallen Spanish climber and Seven Summits Treks' Co-Leader Sergi Mingote.
Could you elaborate?Some would argue that history and the achievement have both been sullied.
There is a reason why the Pols, Russians, Italians, Pakistanis, and everyone else kept failing year after year but never resorted to oxygen. The Seven Summits team exhibited lack of basic etiquette and respect.
They used oxygen. Oxygen is the steroids of mountaineering. Climbing with oxygen is no where near the achievement that it is climbing without it. It cuts the climb by more than half. I'm trying to confirm the name but after knowing the Nepali plans to use O one of the more prominent climbers commented that climbing an +8000m peak with O is like climbing a 3500m peak without it. This is why when you do use oxygen your climbing certificate and history clearly states that you did. This is also the reason why whenever there is a record or a " world first" or a speed attempt on the line those who do not have the ability to summit without oxygen wait for someone to do it before them without it. It is the etiquette of climbing. Also the reason why after Everest's first winter ascent all the other +8000 meter peaks were not attempted with oxygen in the winter until someone had already claimed the first winter ascent without it. It is basic decency which apparently the Nepali team was completely blind to. And it's not as if they didn't know about this. Every climber who is worth his metal advised them against it,Could you elaborate?
This Pakistani is Muhammad Ali Sadpara, a national hero and one of the best climbers in the world today. And like most of our national heroes, no one knows his name. He claimed the first winter ascent on Nangaparbat!!! I cannot emphasize how big an achievement that is. IMO, it is still the most impressive feat yet achieved in mountaineering, keeping my above rant in mind. He did it with his teammates Alex Txicon and Simone Moro. He waited a few meters below the summit for Txicon and Moro to join him so that they could summit together. According to them both, he led them to the top and there was no way they could have done it without him. Txicon and Moro are two of the best and most celebrated climbers today.
@krash This attempt by a Pakistani national is without the aid of oxygen cylinders.