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Looking to buy a Rifle

I started shooting first when I was in school in National Cadet corps (Indian ROTC equivalent) later my family owned a .22 sporter OFB which sucked, when i came to US started with hand guns in the local indoor gun range. For practice I use a Ruger 10/22 with a thompson scope, I have a decent shot grouping at 100 yards, this summer going to take it more seriously.

Damn, your air rifle must be a killer.. it nearly costs the same as my .308" rifle.... so do you have any plans of getting more firearms ?

Hi,

My plan is to get the .50 calibre air rifle-----if all goes well.


Sam Yang Dragon Claw Dual Tank Air Rifle. Air rifles - PyramydAir.com
 
Hi,

You see---with the air rifle--I can do targets in my backyard and possibly in the garage---I have quite a bit of room in the garage with a side extension----. The RWS 350 magnum is like the rolls royce of break barrell air rifles---. When you hold it in your hands----it is the real thing----the quality---the woodwork the barrell---it is high quality german workmanship.

Now coming to the .50 calibre air rifle----my man----the kinetic energy from a hollow point .50 calibre air rifle at 50 yds would be devastating for a mule deer----.

The air rifle is less noisy---it is something different---it is a fun thing to do---.

Do you know about the Lewis and Clark expedition---what if I told you that they had air rifles---repeater air rifles----.

The armies in europe used these repeater type air rifles----air rifles have a fascinating history behind them.
 
.303 is an obsolete calibre--even though it still kills its share---bit I don't think it is produced for sale anymore.
 
Hi,

You see---with the air rifle--I can do targets in my backyard and possibly in the garage---I have quite a bit of room in the garage with a side extension----. The RWS 350 magnum is like the rolls royce of break barrell air rifles---. When you hold it in your hands----it is the real thing----the quality---the woodwork the barrell---it is high quality german workmanship.

Now coming to the .50 calibre air rifle----my man----the kinetic energy from a hollow point .50 calibre air rifle at 50 yds would be devastating for a mule deer----.

The air rifle is less noisy---it is something different---it is a fun thing to do---.

Do you know about the Lewis and Clark expedition---what if I told you that they had air rifles---repeater air rifles----.

The armies in europe used these repeater type air rifles----air rifles have a fascinating history behind them.

Cool ,, didn't know about the lewis clark exp.. good to learn something new. what kind of scope do you suggest. Shooting range target is from 100 to 600 yds and for hunting I will most probably not take shots above 150 yd... I use a 3-9x32 scope for my .22 and was planning for a 3-9x40 for the .308. Any other suggestions?
 
Get a .303 rifle.best weapon ever made

SKS is a better buy than the .303 and the ammo is rare and kinda expensive. And thanks for the suggestion but I already bought my rifle
 
bought my rifle, got a Marlin XS7 bolt action rifle chambered in .308/ 7.62 nato Caliber

congrats brother

don't mind but this gun don't gives me any good feeling it's barrel seems short, if u r in to hunting then definatly u need to utilize the proper power of the cartridge for that u need good velocity and a good velocity always comes from a long barrel, 20+ inches some thing like 22, 23 would be more better and if some how u find one in 26 it would be more than enough, 2ndly it would be much better if ur gun had a removable 10 cartridge magazine option so that u can reload it much easily without inserting bulltets into chamber again and again manualy,
although what so ever keep good care of it oil it after evry time u use bcz some chemicals of ammo cause corrosion in barrels, and corrosion will compromise its presion, accuracy and velocity and can be dangerous more......
for future i will suggest u and all of other members to stay away from remington rifles they had a very huge problem, there barrels get rusted quickly then u thought, what ever synthetic coating they use are of very low qulity, i would prefer a stainless steel barrel remington rifle if u only want to buy remington, but be sure these rifles with stainless steel barrels are hard to find here in pakistan,,,, so savage, merlin, dragnov, or any others would be much better .

SKS is a better buy than the .303 and the ammo is rare and kinda expensive. And thanks for the suggestion but I already bought my rifle
In which world u are living my dear, SKS is PB weapon bcz it is a semiautomatic only bolt action rifles are allowed to kept now with limited number of non-PB bores
 
In which world u are living my dear, SKS is PB weapon bcz it is a semiautomatic only bolt action rifles are allowed to kept now with limited number of non-PB bores

In US no PB's... everything is legal...

I own a marlin .22 795 semi auto, marlin X7S .308/7.62 x 51, Mossberg 500 12G, FA Cugir M10 AKM 7.62 x 39 semi auto, mosin Nagant 7.62x 54R, Ruger 10/22, TZ 75 9mm, Smith and wesson SW9ve 9mm.

Check out Guns Corner and welcome to PDF!!!
 
bought my rifle, got a Marlin XS7 bolt action rifle chambered in .308/ 7.62 nato Caliber

308_AJPG-1.jpg

looks good.
 
Cool ,, didn't know about the lewis clark exp.. good to learn something new. what kind of scope do you suggest. Shooting range target is from 100 to 600 yds and for hunting I will most probably not take shots above 150 yd... I use a 3-9x32 scope for my .22 and was planning for a 3-9x40 for the .308. Any other suggestions?

Hi,

Sorry---I missed the post----Leupold optics makes quality scope.



What power scope should I buy for 100-500 yard shots?
I have done alot of brush hunting with my trusty 30-30,but this year I have bought 30-06 for hunting in open country.I don't have much expirience with scopes because I have never needed one.Here in the oklahoma brush I can easily make 150 yard shots with iron sights.My question is..What power do i need for shots up to 500 yards??


1. Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
I am a long time Alaskan hunter and trapper.

All scopes are not created equal. There are junk scopes, fancy junk scopes, Ok scopes that will fail in a few years once you get used to them - and then expensive scopes that are worth every penny.

Imagine you buy a regualar 3-9X scope for about $120 dollars. In two or three years you will be pretty good with it...... and then on year 4 or 5 you will have an awesome trophy deer in your sights - and the shot will be two feet to high and 4 feet to the left. This is what happens to people who buy cheap scopes.

Cheap scopes are only good for punching paper.

The main cost of building a scope is actually the metalic coatings of the lenses. The better the lens - the less light is lost - the more light comes through it, the clearer it is. The more $$ you invest - the better your world is going to look. 32mm is a toy. 40mm is standard, and the 50mm AO is truly awesome for hunting in the early morning and late evening or rainy days - the larger the main AO lens the more light the scope pulls in.

You always want to shoot at the lowest possible power - shoot a deer at high scope power it is near impossible to find it again and get the cross hairs on it. 3x is good, 4x is good for open areas - 6x is too much for hunting.

You also want enough power to tell if there is a second animal standing behind the target animal. 7X is for brush, 9x is semi-brush, and for open areas 10x to 14.5x is about perfect. 18x and higher are for target shooting.

Side Focus is awesome - especially if you wear glasses. It will allow you to shoot with them off, or, hand the rifle to your buddy or a second hunter to use.

A BDC is necessary for long range shooting - or target turrents. This will allow you to instantly set the bullet drop for the distance and you will be able to shoot dead on to the game animal. No nasty over hold to mess up.

All considered - the best overall scope Leupold makes for your application is the 4x-14.5x with 50mm AO, side focus. It comes in several models. This is the first socpe you should look at, and, then start looking at less expensive scopes with less abilities until you find one that meets both budget and needs.


2. 3-9 power is plenty, but for long shots you want a 30 mm tube has better field of view than the standard 1", and you don't want the 40mm objective, you'd want atleast 50mm. The bigger the objective, the more light the scope will gather. And for a 500 yd shot, you'll want as much light as possible. Horace has a scope out that can have multiple zeros stored in it, a plus for extended range. Other than that, Leupold, Night Force, Schmidt and Binder have the only reticles that return to true zero following each shot. Every time a rifle is shot, the reticle will move due to the shot and force involved in recoil. For long range shots, this is critical as it changes point of aim. Remember short distances at the rifle end amount to large differences at the target end. Aim small, miss small.
Source(s):
Mechanical Enginee, Tactical Rifle Manufacturer, gun guru, and my Infantry self.
 
Hi,

Sorry---I missed the post----Leupold optics makes quality scope.



What power scope should I buy for 100-500 yard shots?
I have done alot of brush hunting with my trusty 30-30,but this year I have bought 30-06 for hunting in open country.I don't have much expirience with scopes because I have never needed one.Here in the oklahoma brush I can easily make 150 yard shots with iron sights.My question is..What power do i need for shots up to 500 yards??


1. Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
I am a long time Alaskan hunter and trapper.

All scopes are not created equal. There are junk scopes, fancy junk scopes, Ok scopes that will fail in a few years once you get used to them - and then expensive scopes that are worth every penny.

Imagine you buy a regualar 3-9X scope for about $120 dollars. In two or three years you will be pretty good with it...... and then on year 4 or 5 you will have an awesome trophy deer in your sights - and the shot will be two feet to high and 4 feet to the left. This is what happens to people who buy cheap scopes.

Cheap scopes are only good for punching paper.

The main cost of building a scope is actually the metalic coatings of the lenses. The better the lens - the less light is lost - the more light comes through it, the clearer it is. The more $$ you invest - the better your world is going to look. 32mm is a toy. 40mm is standard, and the 50mm AO is truly awesome for hunting in the early morning and late evening or rainy days - the larger the main AO lens the more light the scope pulls in.

You always want to shoot at the lowest possible power - shoot a deer at high scope power it is near impossible to find it again and get the cross hairs on it. 3x is good, 4x is good for open areas - 6x is too much for hunting.

You also want enough power to tell if there is a second animal standing behind the target animal. 7X is for brush, 9x is semi-brush, and for open areas 10x to 14.5x is about perfect. 18x and higher are for target shooting.

Side Focus is awesome - especially if you wear glasses. It will allow you to shoot with them off, or, hand the rifle to your buddy or a second hunter to use.

A BDC is necessary for long range shooting - or target turrents. This will allow you to instantly set the bullet drop for the distance and you will be able to shoot dead on to the game animal. No nasty over hold to mess up.

All considered - the best overall scope Leupold makes for your application is the 4x-14.5x with 50mm AO, side focus. It comes in several models. This is the first socpe you should look at, and, then start looking at less expensive scopes with less abilities until you find one that meets both budget and needs.


2. 3-9 power is plenty, but for long shots you want a 30 mm tube has better field of view than the standard 1", and you don't want the 40mm objective, you'd want atleast 50mm. The bigger the objective, the more light the scope will gather. And for a 500 yd shot, you'll want as much light as possible. Horace has a scope out that can have multiple zeros stored in it, a plus for extended range. Other than that, Leupold, Night Force, Schmidt and Binder have the only reticles that return to true zero following each shot. Every time a rifle is shot, the reticle will move due to the shot and force involved in recoil. For long range shots, this is critical as it changes point of aim. Remember short distances at the rifle end amount to large differences at the target end. Aim small, miss small.
Source(s):
Mechanical Enginee, Tactical Rifle Manufacturer, gun guru, and my Infantry self.

Thank you sir,

Last couple of years since I got my first rifle has been quite educative, got to learn about scopes, trajectory, Ballistic calculations, Scope adjustments. Nikon and Leopold scopes along with EO tech red dots would be on my wish list, but currently I have in expensive- leapers UTG 3-9 X 50 Mildot, Barska 8 - 24 x 50 and UTG 5gen Red *** optics on my rifles, When budget permits, I would like to upgrade to better scopes, for now the ones I own aren't too bad.
 
Thank you sir,

Last couple of years since I got my first rifle has been quite educative, got to learn about scopes, trajectory, Ballistic calculations, Scope adjustments. Nikon and Leopold scopes along with EO tech red dots would be on my wish list, but currently I have in expensive- leapers UTG 3-9 X 50 Mildot, Barska 8 - 24 x 50 and UTG 5gen Red *** optics on my rifles, When budget permits, I would like to upgrade to better scopes, for now the ones I own aren't too bad.

Hi,

Shooting a quality air rifle also helps a lot in rifle shooting.
 

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