A toast to Lahore - Ajay Goyal (an Indian)

[53fd]

The Mumbai attacks coincided with the exams of my penultimate semester at DCE. The carnage caused by Kasab and co. in Mumbai on 26/11 had left the nation extremely bitter at the loss of life and property during the incident. Indo-Pak relations had hit a trough with military build up at the border and the issuance of a travel advisory by the MEA for Indians against travelling to Pakistan.

It was during these times in December 2009 that I met two students from Lahore , Saboor Karamat and Umar Rashid, during a debate competition at Hindu College (University of Delhi). I tried to play a good host by showing them around my city which included Connaught Place, Chandni Chowk and Jama Masjid. They loved the city (especially the world class Metro) and invited me for their debate competition to be held next month in Lahore.

I was rather “iffy” about this offer given the political relations at the time but decided to take up the rare and adventurous opportunity (instead of coming to Deloitte Hyderabad for the internship. I heard the interns had a great time !). Getting the VISA from the Pakistani High Commission felt like a miracle as applications often get rejected . Needless to say , my family and friends never approved of this decision of mine and I found myself traveling alone on the Delhi-Lahore bus for a reason that could at best be classified as “frivolous”. My only rationale for my personal safety being “what can go wrong in a University!” . The only people who silently supported me were my Dad and my friend (and future colleague at Deloitte) Aseem Behl.

The bus journey was like none other I’ve experienced. We were strip checked on several occasions. The bus was accompanied by a police jeep with a “lal batti” and the mood was fairly tense. The passengers essentially avoided conversation with each other and there was an air of distrust. We crossed the border at Wagah amongst much fanfare with people waving at us . The iron gates were opened and we were greeted by the Pakistani rangers in Salwar Kameez. In a heartbeat before I even realized it frankly, Pakistan had arrived. In an hour’s time we reached the Gulberg bus terminus in the heart of Lahore. My eyes searched for my friend Saboor who was to receive me. I breathed a sigh of relief when I saw him waiting outside!!

During my stay at University College Lahore, I felt like a celebrity. Being the “only Indian adjudicator” around everyone wanted to interact with me and learn more about my country. I also qualified to judge the finals of the parliamentary debate competition .At that point, Kasab’s nationality was still not acknowledged by Pakistan and our allegations of Pakistani involvement in the Mumbai attacks were being hotly debated in all media .Often conversations would center around controversial topics like Kashmir , the partition and the numerous wars that we’ve fought !! It must be said that there was unequivocal condemnation for the Mumbai attacks and all did express a desire for better relations and an end to terrorism.

I found Lahore to be a beautiful city with warm people and vibrant culture be it fashion , cuisine, language or architecture. I must admit Lahore’s women are amongst the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. The funny bit is Indian girls actually agree to this fact !! A visit to the Walled City (Purana Lahore) made me realize that architecturally Lahore and Delhi were identical twins as both had been Mughul capitals. It is a sad fate that these twins have had such a terrible separation.

I continue to stay in touch with the friends I made there on facebook and we discuss issues far more relevant than politics. We discuss cooking , cricket , relationships , environment and movies. I encourage all Indians to visit Lahore for it offers a unique opportunity to discover oneself through another body and to rid oneself of pre-conceived notions and bias. Its an experience I shall never forget. It is said “Jinney Lahore Nahin Vekhya , Woh Jamiya Hi Nahin “(He who hasn’t seen Lahore , hasn’t lived at all). I for one raise a toast to that statement.

http://www.ajaygoyalonline.com/2010/05/toast-to-lahore.html

 

[53fd]

More from the same Indian:

A tale of two cities - Delhi and Lahore:

If there is one thing that Punjabis in India have never gotten over is the loss of Lahore to Pakistan in 1947 during the gruesome partition. Lahore had developed a formidable reputation as the leading city of north India during the Raj and was renowned as the Paris of the East. Iconic praises in awe of the city were coined like the oft repeated “Jinney Lahore Nahin Vekhya , Woh Jamiya Hi Nahin” (He who hasn’t seen Lahore hasn’t lived at all).

I have been born and brought up in New Delhi , a city that saw tremendous migration in 1947 from Punjab which had led to a significant shift in the city’s demographics. Since then it has been reputed as a predominantly Punjabi city (it’s a Bihari town now frankly !). The paternal side of my family is Punjabi. My grand mother was raised in a village called Bulada which was a part of District Lahore pre-1947 and her father would pay weekly visits to Lahore to sell his textile wares. I have grown up with the descendants of several families who had tales that started like “our family had to leave our grand Haveli in Lahore……….”. Needless to say , Lahore too has many such families who survived the partition and who romance Delhi through Ghalib’s poetry ,the bazaars of Chandni Chowk and the opulence of New Delhi.

Life presented me with an opportunity to visit Lahore shortly after Mumbai 26/11 when relations between the two countries were at their usual worst. Simply a glimpse at the old city of Lahore unraveled to me its inherent similarity to my home - Delhi . Both Mughul cities had been walled to fortify them against foreign invasions and were accessible through certain gates only. These gates were named after the city which they faced such as Delhi, Lahore and Ajmer . The centre stage of the cities was occupied by the Lal Quila and the Shahi Quila respectively. Both are classic examples of Mughul architecture with gardens laid out in perfect symmetry . Both have served as palaces to royalty , prostituted garrisons to the British soldiers and as symbols of national pride . Currently, they are both listed as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO and attract tourists from across the world.

Shahjahan had earned a reputation as a master builder by establishing the city of Shahjahanabad (presently Old Delhi) and the magnificent Taj Mahal in Agra. Aurangzeb, his son,tried to exceed him by constructing in Lahore a grander version of the Jama Masjid (built by Shahjahan ) in Delhi . He called it the Badshahi which until 1986 stood as the largest mosque in the world. Both these mosques house articles attributed to Prophet Muhammad and are magnificent symbols of Islamic architecture in the Indian sub-continent.

Every year on the occasion of Guru Tegh Bahadur’s martyrdom the Sikhs of Delhi lead a procession from Connaught Place to Shish Ganj Gurudwara in Chandni Chowk (the site of the Guru’s martyrdom ). The city traffic is brought to a halt and (in return) delicious food and prasad is distributed by the Sikhs to all passersby. In Lahore, adjacent to the Badshahi , one finds the Dera Sahib, which is the site of martyrdom of Guru Arjun Dev . It also enshrines the Samadhi of Maharaja Ranjit Singh , one of the central figures in modern Sikh history. However, the Gurudwara in Lahore shuts down after dark apparently due to “ a fear of being taken over by fundamentalists” . I was allowed admission only after showing my Indian passport which was fairly amusing given that it was a Gurudwara-a shrine that is open to all 24x7 !!

India Gate – the symbol of national pride in India finds its counterpart in Minar-i-Pakistan. India Gate was originally erected as the War Memorial commemorating the contribution of the British Indian soldiers in the first world war. It stands impressively on Raj Path and revels in the glory of the Republic Day parade every year. The Minar-i-Pakistan has been built at the very site where Jinnah gave his famous Pakistan Resolution speech that called for the creation of a separate state for Muslims. Ironically, it faces the grand Badshahi Masjid and Dera Sahib which stand adjacent to each other representing the textbook definition of secularism. It is hard not to feel poignant and experience a sense of loss when besieged by this sight. To the common Pakistani the Minar-i-Pakistan serves as living justification for the partition that was engineered to protect them from the evil forces of communalism that had engulfed British India. Without the minaret Pakistan lacks a reason to exist. To the common Indian eye the minaret represents the evil forces of theocracy that led to the partition of India and which we must guard against for our future survival as a secular nation. To me the minaret is a monument representing the difference in the psychology of the two countries.

The bazaars of the walled cities have intricate lanes carved-in and are a food lover’s haven. There are shops there that have been selling their wares for centuries. Lahore’s Mall Road is a linear version of the circular Connaught Place and is home to the best retail merchandise in the city. Surprisingly both have terrific roads -Lahore’ s are wider, Delhi’s are better maintained . Both are endowed with wonderful people (read beautiful womenJ) who tend to smile, frown and weep at the same things. The modern cities of Delhi and Lahore have grown into megacities and serve as the cultural and administrative capitals in their countries. They attract people from all parts of their country and from across the world.

The tale of these two cities over the past several centuries is like that of two twins. They look deceptively similar , at times indistinguishable to the naked eye. However, each has developed a unique personality and has led a different life since they’ve parted ways. They continue to grow further apart.

 

[Kambojaric]

Lahori pride I hail from Androon Shehr (Old City) from my fathers side, it truly is a great city.

 

[blackops]

i will not mind to come and visit pak but the thing is that am afraid what if if i get abducted and all who will save more over my dad wont allow me

 

[Desert Fox]

Lahori pride I hail from Androon Shehr (Old City) from my fathers side, it truly is a great city.

i have relatives that live in Lahore in Mazang Changi. Been there in 2004-5 and loved the city! I miss it now!

 

[WAQAS119]

i have relatives that live in Lahore in Mazang Changi. Been there in 2004-5 and loved the city! I miss it now!

Hey, I am posting from Mozang Chungi! Am I your relative?

 

[Desert Fox]

Hey, I am posting from Mozang Chungi! Am I your relative?

My Grandmother, grandfather and my Aunt don't have a computer! So you can't be them! My cousins don't have enough time for a defence forum so you can't be them either!

 

[WAQAS119]

My Grandmother and my Aunt don't have a computer! So you can't be them! My cousins don't have enough time for a defence forum

Hall road is near by and computers are available at very low price. May be they have purchased one

 

[53fd]

Ajay Goyal in Lahore:

 

[AvidSpice]

I would definitely like to experience Pakistan someday. Seems very mysterious to me. And may be I'll find answers to a lot of questions!

 

[mautkimaut]

ajay goyal works with me in my company.This is the problem with people from Delhi they get all senti regarding Pakistani cities.may be coming from UP i dont find any emotional connect to Pakistanis

 

[53fd]

ajay goyal works with me in my company.This is the problem with people from Delhi they get all senti regarding Pakistani cities.may be coming from UP i dont find any emotional connect to Pakistanis

That's not true. My parents are Bihari, my Dad was born in Ranchi, my mom was born & raised in Patna before she married my Dad & moved to Pakistan. I also have extended family in Banaras, Lucknow & Amroha. There are lots of people from UP, Hyderabad, Bihar, Punjab (of course) & other Indian states living in Pakistan. So they are just as sentimental as the people from Delhi.

 

[mautkimaut]

That's not true. My parents are Bihari, my Dad was born in Ranchi, my mom was born & raised in Patna before she married my Dad & moved to Pakistan. I also have extended family in Banaras, Lucknow & Amroha. There are lots of people from UP, Hyderabad, Bihar, Punjab (of course) & other Indian states living in Pakistan. So they are just as sentimental as the people from Delhi.

that is because they still have a connection in Pakistan. I dont, for me it is just another foreign city, I mean whether Colombo or Lahore, I can dispassionately go "Meh",regarding architecture, every city in the sub continet has history way back to friggin 3000 years.

It is only pseudo intellectuals who want to go hug Pakistanis.for me a pakistani is just another person like coming from Sri Lanka or Nepal.

 

[Varad]

That's not true. My parents are Bihari, my Dad was born in Ranchi, my mom was born & raised in Patna before she married my Dad & moved to Pakistan. I also have extended family in Banaras, Lucknow & Amroha. There are lots of people from UP, Hyderabad, Bihar, Punjab (of course) & other Indian states living in Pakistan. So they are just as sentimental as the people from Delhi.

I am from Lucknow, do come someday we'll have tunday kebabs.

 

[BATMAN]

i will not mind to come and visit pak but the thing is that am afraid what if if i get abducted and all who will save more over my dad wont allow me

Thousands of Indians work just across north Wazirastan but non was ever abducted, there are Indiana embassies from Herat to Kabul never a single one complaint of insecurity.
There are Indians working on Pak-Iran borders but never complain and yet you feel insecure in Pakistan!!